crayZlair

I got a new rack from T3 before the holidays. Just now took it out of the box. Being curious, I set up a test fixture of sorts to check for free play. Using a 24" piece of aluminum, and a dial indicator, I came up with the following results: I'm not very good at math, but I think that the rotation measured at 24" is very minimal. My results show no play. After doing a little research, I am moving about .2 degree in my testing.

Nope. Just traced out a paper template from an existing windshield, copied to the Lexan. Then I just carefully bent it to the contour of the frame, held with Cleco's and clamps, then pop-riveted it in place.

Made my own for less than half the price......................... Note: The car is NOT street legal !

I agree with cgsheen1 They claim 2 degrees of camber with these, but when I used similar bushings years ago, I could only get about 1/2 degree of negative camber. I just adjusted the for max. (Offset the bushings so that the control arms are both at the farthest point from the center of the car. If you want to get serious, you need something along these lines. https://www.arizonazcar.com/suspension

Looks to me like it is right up against it.................

I worked for a Chrysler plant that made torque converters. The hub (the part that goes into the transmission) was ground to size, and then "polished" to make the ideal surface for seal wear. The funny thing is that the "polishing" actually produced a rougher finish than the grinding.

The downside to using GPS for speed is that you need a good solid signal. The more satellites received, the more accurate. If you are in a wooded area, or an extremely cloudy day, the cruise might not work as well as intended.

On my Autocross car I use the outlet strictly for a breather. Took a 3/4" hose barb and turned the threads down for a tight fit. Gooped it up with metal-type JB Weld, and it hasn't moved in eight seasons. I call that a win.

Kano Kroil is your friend !! https://www.kroil.com/

If nothing more than durability, I would suggest seeing what a powder coating business could do for you.

First time that I have seen parts available in the mid-west. If I didn't already have too many spare parts of my own, I would be interested!

"Just In Time" manufacturing was just starting to ramp up in the early 70's, so it's possible that it didn't apply to tires, especially spares, at the time.

You are going to be limited on your front camber adjustment (more negative camber), unless: 1. You install lower control arm offset bushings (or use adjustable lower control arms) 2. You install some type of camber adjusting plate in your front upper control towers. I use Ground Control (along with their coilover kit) in my '73 autocross car, but there are many other options available since I did the conversion 10 or so years ago. Ground Control was the only player at the time. 3. Rear camber is not as important, but it helps.

Been to 42 a few times with my '73 FP car. Fast and fun. Q1. It's probably best to use the same tires front and rear. You want the car to be as "neutral" as possible. Too much front traction can induce oversteer, to much rear traction can induce understeer. Q2. No Q3. I see that you are running HCS. The rules only allow for an 8" rim width. When I drove my '76 car in BSP, I went with a 16x7 rim with a 225-50-16 tire. I tried 16x8 rims, but they rubbed a little. You should probably stay away from steel rims. They are less expensive than alloy, but much heavier. Un-sprung weight is your friend. I have a Gleason Torsen carrier in my R200, but I got it back in the 80's. Probably hard to find anymore. Quaiffe makes a similar unit, but they are expensive. Come on over to Toledo Express Airport next season!

Good luck! I looked and looked for an alternative to the Reals. I did find a steel wheel in a 16x10, but it didn't clear my front calipers, and it was way too heavy.