crayZlair
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Everything posted by crayZlair
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Looks good! As far as the backside, what form of support did he use when generating the G-code? That is a very large open area. He may have to experiment a little. -
Just a guess, but he probably turned the round stock to fit the carb bore, and then attached the round stock to the square block with a bolt.
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My autocross car has triple TWM/Borla throttle bodies. Tried to make the OEM style linkage work, but gave up and went with a silicone jacketed cable that I got from Pegasus Racing.
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I agree with the Captain. Also, the linkage has to be somewhat flexible to allow for the movement (think rubber motor mounts) between the engine and the rest of the body.
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1 picture is worth.............................................................
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A bottom view and a size reference would be very helpful in identification.
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Can't tell the exact size from the picture. A scale reference would help. If it is about the size of a quarter, I'd go with the soldering iron tip.
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From the comments for the Thing files, I decided to go with my own design.
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Took the plunge and bought a 3-D printer the other day. I am still learning, but I designed an printed a couple of fusible link covers for my '76. If anyone is interested, here is the .stl file so you can print your own (if you happen to have a printer). Fusible_Link_Cvr v5.stl
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It most certainly is!
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Pretty sure it is for your radio antenna up/down.
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23.5 on 16x10 rims. 🙄
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A pipe wrench always works for me. Only makes little nicks. 🙄
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In my mind the engine would not run very good with all 6 plugs being "color tune". Unless the heat range just happened to be the same as required,
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Another forum that I am a member of (not Datsun content) requires that a first time poster submit an introductory post. Who they are, where they are from, why they want to be a forum member. Helps prevent some of the issues that this forum has.
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Back in the day (early 80's) a company called Turn Six sold yellow springs. I have them on my '76. All that I can remember about them is that they lowered the car about an inch. I do not remember the rates.
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Try soaking the stubborn and broken bolt with Kano Kroil. And I mean really soak them and let them sit for a couple of days. After that, try heating up the area around the bolts with a propane torch (go easy here), and just keep working to remove. The bolts are surrounded with oxidation.
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The coating is starting to "lift" from the glass. I don't think it can be repaired, just replaced. A local glass shop should be able to advise you.
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This is what Patcon is referring to: Electric fan controller Sildes between the fins of the radiator, or could be mounted alongside, but should be in the airflow. Just noticed that this is preset at 185, but they make similar that are adjustable.
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Make me an offer. The set on the right was running within the last decade! I live near Toledo, OH, so delivery is possible.
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It's a vacuum manifold instead of a fuel rail, but here is how I mounted it.
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https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-nissan-fairlady-z/products/headlight-cover-kit-without-frame-for-datsun-240z-260z-280z-with-choice-of-4-different-lens-color-variations?variant=39477618016365 Pricy
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If you are talking Autocross here, the 3.90 diff and the trans with the 1.858 2nd gear is the way to go. Good off the line and 60+ mph in 2nd.
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Looks to be a good buy!
