crayZlair
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Everything posted by crayZlair
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Just my $.02, but I really like the Centerforce clutch and pressure plate. Put one in my '76 about 20 years ago. After many, many hard launches at Autocross events, it's still going strong! I have one in my '73 also, but it's only been in for 4 years. I really like the pedal feel. Not too stiff, not too light.
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Just an FYI, when you go to install the new spindle pin, be aware that the notch is not in the middle of the pin. Ask me how I know! 🙄
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Try Puegeot.
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I didn't modify the door, but I did use the opener.
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A 2 post lift has to be bolted to the floor, a 4 post does not. I have radiant heat coils in the floor, don't want to risk puncturing one.
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If you are cheap (like me) you'll find that this: https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/accessories/jp-3/ along with the scissors jack that came with the Z and some 4 x 4's will work almost as well.
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bridge jacks Just like Captain Obvious...................
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Amen to that Brother! I ended up using an "A" frame made from 2x8's along with a chain hoist to aid in assembly. Two of us put the lift together in about 4 hours.
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I have a BendPak 4-poster, and I love it! https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/four-post-lifts/ My shop ceiling is 12'-6" height, and I can put a full size van on top with room for the Z underneath if I choose. I got the lift with the optional casters, so I can move the lift where I please. I have even moved it outside in the driveway to power wash the underside of my cars. The lift takes 220 volts for the hydraulics and a source of compressed air for the safety mechanisms. I just use a long 220v extension cord and an air hose to allow for moving the lift around. Get a couple of the fixed sliding jack trays and some short bottle jacks, and you are good to go.
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Oops! Missed it.
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Saw this today on EBay........................ Beverly Hills Car Club 240Z
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Kroil really works well ! As for the sensor, it is threaded in just like the plugs you can't get out. Catch 22 😀 Really, the sensor will come out, just apply the Kroil on the threads of it also.
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Indeed !
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AK260, Isn't that what I said ? 😀😀😀 (I have a Degree in Electronics also)
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Sorry, I was being rather facetious, thus my comment "Easy - Peasy 😄" Still going with the damaged component being a varistor. And, I did notice the new electrolytic cap.
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Basic tachometer theory: Digital to analog. You take a digital signal (RPM, converted to PPS, pulses per second, also known as Hertz). You then convert that to a current to operate a meter movement from zero to full scale. Easy - Peasy. 😄
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Yep, that's what it is.
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Can't be sure w/o the proper schematic, but I believe these are what is typically called a PEC. Packaged Electronic Component. Custom designed mix of resistors/caps, etc. Designed to take less space on the circuit board.
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I think that the "teal" component is a varistor. The resistor labeled "temp comp" in the schematic. It is physically mounted right next to a resistor. As the current thru the resistor changes, the heat dissipated from it (the resistor) changes (it will be affected by ambient air). The resistance of the varistor will change with the temperature of the resistor and allow for an accurate tach reading. You can try holding a heat source (solder iron, heat gun) near the component while measuring with an ohm meter. See if the resistance changes.
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Stainless Rear Plate Between Engine and Transmission
crayZlair replied to Captain Obvious's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Assuming that the steel is the same gauge (thickness)............................. -
Stainless Rear Plate Between Engine and Transmission
crayZlair replied to Captain Obvious's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Any weight difference between the new and the old? Just curious. -
Rubbing alcohol makes a good lubricant for installation. Then it just evaporates.
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Lookin' good!
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I bulge the rubber just slightly more than the diameter of the steel washer. Always seems to work out well.
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For me, an electric carving knife worked better. (Just my opinion)
