crayZlair
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Everything posted by crayZlair
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I think the the purpose of the lock pin (wedge) is two-fold. #1 is to keep the pin in place in the strut assembly. #2 is to keep the pin from rotating so that the proper torque can be applied to both jam nuts. It may have more to do with the assembly process .........................
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I think that I would go with the EFI. Once you have it dialed in (a good dyno tuner shop) you'll never have to worry about it again. It will start in any weather, no choke to play with. However, I'm a little older than you, and it's never "fast enough"! ?
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I'll add to the collection. Two of them I was able to translate. ? I need a little help on the other three.
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I made this video about 9 years ago............................ Project FP 240Z Part 5 Spindle removal starts at 7:00
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Yes, I replaced the bearings when I did the conversion. The car has only "been driven on Sundays" since then. 10 - 12 autocross events per season. ? Thank you for your input!
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Back about 9 years ago, I purchased a conversion kit from somewhere that I can't recall. It uses 240SX calipers and an 11.25" diameter cross-drilled rotor. Anyway, one of the calipers is leaking, and I would like to upgrade to a caliper that is lighter and has more piston area (think Willwood). What I would like to avoid is replacing the mounting brackets as that will entail cutting the existing bracket in half, or pulling the stub axles. I can't find a Willwood caliper with the required mounting center of 4.5", so I will probably have to make an adapter for the existing bracket. Any other suggestions?
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All of that rusty metal is going to have to be replaced to repair properly. Why waste money on treating it? Spray it with some etch primer if it makes you feel better.
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Rear Panel Surrounding Tail And Reverse Lights
crayZlair replied to zdude1967's topic in Body & Paint
I know that this is a really old thread, but I found a substitute for the rivets. (Those of you looking for originality need not apply.) Anyway, I got them thru Zoro. (Part #G5101564) for $8.83 + shipping. I haven't seen fasteners this small anywhere else.
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- plastic trim
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I don't think that it matters too much, as long as your are not too extreme. The u-joints will take care of the transmission to driveshaft angle. I see that you have a '76. The fuel injection doesn't care either, unlike carburetor bowls and floats.
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You would probably have to make each layer a separate .pdf. Extra work, but It would make things easier to trace.
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Try Summit Racing Gas Tank Sending Unit
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A picture is all I have.
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Reverse the above mentioned procedure to tighten the nuts. Works well for the half shafts also.
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Are the upper rollers fixed or adjustable?
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I think that you will find out that you would be better off having the parts shipped across the border. Customs is a nightmare! The stories that I could tell........................
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I've been running a non-competitive '76 280 since 1982 :stupid: There was a National Tour event in Toledo this year........I finished about 8 seconds behind ( 2 day event) Larry
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