toletero

For the color is tan , and yes I still have the rear view mirror , overhead light and switch .....

Ok I just got a 280zx just for parts , I got everything I wanted from the car , but there's still a lot of part on the car . So Im posting the message to see if someone want parts from it , is far money goes , just offer me something and I'll send it to you of course you would have pay for shipping , if no one write me back I going to junk it anyways , I can list some of the thing there's still on the car but if you eant something specific you would have to write an email (toletero@bellsouth.net) : Automatic Transmition Ttops fenders everthing from a/c power steering stock turbo wheels tail lights drive shaft etc....

Wazup guys , can anyone tell me at what degrees is the best timing in a 240z with compresion ratio of 10.5.1 with a 290 , 495 lift . Right now it's a 17 degrees (stock Static ignition timing ), the vacuum advance does not work do to the the vacuum , now should I run at the stock timing or what will be the best timing for the setup the I have ? Thanks in advance .....

Can someone help me out here , I have a '70 240z with the stock ignition system , it have new poits , new condenser , new distributor cap , new rotor , new coil . There's electricity at the positive (+) side of the coil , and if I check the negative side of the coil , once the positive is conected there's electricity too , the negative from the coil goes to the distributor right ? . Oce I turn the ignition to on there's electricity at the positive side of the coil , when I turn it off there's no electricity at the positive side of the coil . I been reading or looking at the wire diagram of the car and everything looks right . What could be the problem ? please can someone help me , I'll apreciated thanks....

Wazup guys , I just order a new cam kit at MOTORSPORT AUTO and they told me that I need to check the Piston to Valve clearance , now can anyone tell me how can I do this I have an idea how to do it , but I was hoping that someone have used the kind of cam I using , The setup that I have in my car is stock , stock pistons , its not been rebore , an E31 head L24 block . The cam is a 560 lift and 290 duration , Im taking my head to the machine shop so I can get a better or higher compression ratio than stock , now can anyone help me here I'll apreciated , thanks ...

Wazup guys , I just order a new cam kit at MOTORSPORT AUTO and they told me that I need to check the Piston to Valve clearance , now can anyone tell me how can I do this I have an idea how to do it , but I was hoping that someone have used the kind of cam I using , The setup that I have in my car is stock , stock pistons , its not been rebore , an E31 head L24 block . The cam is a 560 lift and 290 duration , Im taking my head to the machine shop so I can get a better or higher compression ratio than stock , now can anyone help me here I'll apreciated , thanks ...

Well I was thinking to use this car not every day but once and a while , just to drive it to the club here in Miami or to events , but like you said , it is going be too week in low RPM than is not what Im looking for , I think Im going be using the L28 block anyways with the normal setup . What do you think about using the 560 lift and 300 duration cam , I know it's a wild cam but I like the overlap sound of the valve in the engine , and I olso planing to put a aluminun flywheel , what do you think ?

Does anyone knows what will be the setup for a short stroke z engine , Im been reading that the setup will be a long 280 block with a 240z crank and 240z rods , now my question is what is the Pro and con of a engine like this . I know that the power band will be at high RPM rev , but because Im going to build my engine with a 560 lift and a 300 duration cam , I would say that an engine like this will rev and operate better , but because I have never done this I want to know if someone have done it or if someone have any info on this setup , thanks for any info . Take care ...

The engine is going to be rebuild soon , I will post the new pics of the car soon , in about a week the body and paint will be ready , and the engine will be next after that .

the other side

Same here

A lot of work here

Can you tell how much rust is in there?

The back

We took off a lot of metal here

Same here

Mmmm New metal there

Like on all z , rust in the battery area.

For those people who don't know , I have been waiting to work on my car for a long time now, and two weeks ago my car went to the body shop to start the project. Here are some pics so you guys can see the shape of the car. It's a lot of work but we will finish. Please guys if you have any comments on how I can do this better, please e-mail me at toletero@bellsouth.net. Car Specs

It sound to me like the car is not in time , check if the piston # 1 is at TDC and the valves are close , and the ignition is pointing to the piston # 1 , Also ( does the car smoke ? )

Wow 1300$ thats too much , a new head will cost you 449.95 plus core at Motorsport Auto and Im talking about with everything new , Valves , Roker Arms , seal , everything . Tell that guy who told you 1300 $ that he's crazy , I dont think nobody will pay that much for a head , but anyways here the web page for Motorspor Auto , I hope you can solve your problem . take care...http://www.zcarparts.com/ PS. You can request a catalog at no cost at the web page