240jetjoc

kcoke, You will find more info than you'll know what do with by using the search function, both here and on other sites. If your Z has the four-speed, you probably have the 3.36 geared R180 differential. Installing a 3.90 or 4.11 differential will dramatically affect your acceleration, probably much more than carburetor choice. A five-speed will still provide good economy. Having said that, There are many 240Z drivers running mid 13's to high 12's with well-tuned SU's. Most use the 2.8 liter block bored and stroked, but there are several running just the 2.8 liter block. Almost all have done some serious head work in addition to cam, ignition, headers, and proper gearing. I've seen, and read about, some very hot Z's running just the 2.4 block. And if you really love triples as I do, then go for it. They will usually improve your low-end torque and add horsepower over SU's. With your 2.4 block, I would stick with 40's, rather than 44 or 45's. But be prepared for jet swapping and dyno tuning to get them properly set up and to get the most out of your triples. This will not be cheap. Once you hear the sound of triples and experience the performance, you'll be hooked as I am. As for dual Weber DGV's, they were originally used on the 73 240's and 74 260's to replace the poor performance-designed flat top low emission carburetors. But once used round top SU's became available, many ditched the DGV's in favor of the earlier round top SU's. The DGV's are more complicated than the SU's, but they can be made to run well. All of the above are my opinions, and their are many, many more knowledgeable folks on this site. Some of them will chime in to correct or add to what I've said. But do yourself a favor and do the search, too. Good luck and best wishes in reaching your performance goals.

Jen, I don't know if you've already done so, but you may want to consider joining a Z car club in your area. They should have lots of info on upcoming shows where your beautiful Z will be welcomed. Plus, you'll have the fun of cruises and other social events with like-minded Z lovers. Welcome aboard.

Brian, I really enjoyed meeting you and seeing your nice Z car. It's a great ride, and you're going to have lots of fun back in the Z world. For those of you that didn't notice, take a closer look at Brian's rare wheels. Brian - I sent you a PM. Roger

McKrack, It's not a stupid question. I have two early 1971 Z's, and both have the fuel door knob center grasping ridge in the verticle (North/South) position. My assumption is that it was done that way because it is a more natural grasping postion for the thumb and forefinger.

Chris, If you haven't done so, visit HybridZ.com. Look at the L6 forum, listed under Nissan six cylinder forums, and you will find an excellent "sticky" on Weber carburetors. It is several pages long and extremely informative. The sticky gives lots of info on what others have used regarding emulsion tubes, idle jets, main jets, venturi size, etc. But when all is said and done, count on spending some serious dyno tuning time with someone very familiar with Webers. That's my plan for my 40 DCOE's as soon as I'm up and running, probably in May. If you don't already own it, I recommend that you purchase Des Hammill's book 'How To Build & Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE, DCO/SP & DHLA Carburettors'. I think you'll find it very helpful. Best wishes, and enjoy your triples.

Lawrence, Thanks for your response. The velocity stacks you referred me to are about an inch shorter than mine (3" vs. 3 15/16"), but otherwise look indentical. I would prefer to have the longer stacks, plus I need six instead of four. Thanks for taking the time to try and help me out.

I have a round port 6-into-2 header of unknown brand with 1 & 3/8ths inch primaries and 2 inch collectors. I plan on using it with my Maxima N47 head. The head has been completely worked by Paul Ruschman (braap on Hybrid Z) including bigger valves, valve unshrouding, polishing to within 1/4 cc per chamber, and moderate porting. The cam is a Rebello regrind with a .520 lift that is referred to as a "very hot street cam". All of this is on a .040 over F54 block with flattops, and running triple Weber 40 DCOE's with an Electromotive distributorless ignition system. I prefer to run a round port header since the MN47 is a round port head. But I'm not opposed to running a square port header. My question is: Will a header with 1 & 3/8 inch round primaries be large enough to take advantage of a tricked out high compression head (11.2:1) with a .520 high lift cam? The exhaust is going to be a true 2" diameter dual exhaust without crossover, running low restriction glasspacks in the tunnel. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

Please don't flame me on this. I have a nice set of six Weber 45 DCOE velocity stacks that I want to trade (not for sale) for a set of 40 DCOE stacks. The classifieds do not have a section for "trade", but I did run this in the classifieds with no responses. If you know anyone running tripples that might be interested in a trade, please pass the word. I can be contacted at 503-267-7266. Thank you - I appreciate your help. Roger

Those specs are very close to the old Electramotive L7 cam (475 lift, 270/270 duration). It should make a good, warm street cam. I'm using the L7 in my F54 engine build. Best wishes.

Thank you for all of your replies and info. If the Cibie lights could be located, can they be converted to accept H4 bulbs?

About a year ago, my brother saw a car at a Seattle car show with 7" round concave lense headlights. They were made by Cibie and were quite exotic looking. The gentleman told my brother that he had purchased them through a supplier on the East Coast. I want a set or two of these for my Z's. Can any of you help me locate these 7" Cibies with the concave lenses? Thanks for your help.

Hear is a link to a very interesting, somewhat long but very informative, article on sound deadening material. It contains a lot of very good info. Enjoy. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

a7dz The hinges should work just fine. I've done the swap to the newer hinges, with the partial-open detent, on my modified series 1 (9/70). No problems. Door adjustments can be very difficult, especially if you're trying to do it without help. I'm not sure which year hinges you're using, but I believe mine came off of a 72 or 73 240. Best wishes, and let us know how you resolve your hinge problem.

Mr.Woof's72Z, Many Z owners with triple Webers comment on their Webers being very finicky because of seasonal weather changes - humidity and temp changes. What's changed in three or four months is the weather. Your problem could very well be carburetor jetting not being appropriate for the season. Find a good mechanic experienced in Weber jetting and tuning. If you're going to run Webers, I would recommend buying a couple of books on Weber carburettors and doing some reading. One book that I have is the SpeedPro Series "How to Build and Power Tune Weber & Dellorto DCOE, DCO/SP & DHLA Carburettors". The author is Des Hammill. Also, go to the HybridZ Nissan L6 forum and read the "sticky" on Weber carburetors. It's well-written and very informative. Welcome to this forum and enjoy your 72 240Z. I'm a big fan of the 240Z and currently own three of them, including a nice 1972. You'll find folks on here to be very knowledgeable and eager to help.

Glad it all worked out, ktm. But for those without the vice and socket, my local machine shop removed the old bearing and installed the new bearing for the large sum of $5.00. I supplied the new bearing, of course.

Marty, You have another PM. Roger

I have a copy of a Datsun asccessory brochure for the 1972 240Z. As options, Datsun offered two different shift knobs with the "colorful Datsun logo". One was vinyl-covered part no. 99990-00005, and the other was polished walnut part no. 99990-00004. Hope that sheds some light on whether they were available stock, or not. My 07/72 Z has the optional polished walnut knob with the Datsun logo, as well as the optional dual racing mirror set part no. 99990-0013. Roger

Welcome, Kathy. In which part of Oregon do you reside? If you are in the Portland or Willamette Valley area, you might wish to consider joining the NorthWestZ Car Club. They have many members who drive and love 280ZX's, and they would be glad to assist with any of your questions or needs. There is another Z club, recently formed, in the Eugene area. Best wishes with your Z disease! I was infected in 1976.

Hi Mike - There is an excellent wheel repair shop in Beaverton. I've seen their work and it is top notch. You won't be able to see the repair when they're done. Cost will be about $150.00 or a little more, but that will be for a completely restored wheel. Give Skip's Wheelwerks a call - 503-641-8001. Their web site is www.SkipsWheelWerks.com

wn5ngp I would think less sidewall stiffness would be more apt to give you a softer ride vs. sidewall height. Usually, the higher the speed rating, the firmer the sidewall will be. You should be able to find decent 195/70 R14's with sidewalls that are not too stiff. However, softer sidewalls will usually hamper steering response and handling.

nwcubsman and beandip - Hi guys and thanks for the welcome. Yup, I was on the ferry cruise riding shotgun in Rich Ekers yellow 1973. He was the fellow taking video of the cruise. Rich let me ride with him since none of our Z's are running at the moment. I'll see you both in Canby - I'll be there bright and early. Roger

This is my first post since becoming a member, but I have spent countless hours reading and learning from all of your posts. Thank you. Tara and I live just west of Portland in Hillsboro, and we're both members of NorthWest Z car club. We courted in a highly modified 1972 240Z over 29 years ago, and we're still hooked on Z's. Tara wants a 1995-96, very low mileage, Z32 convertible with tilt steering to add to our Z stable. We currently own three 1971 240's. Two of them are series 1's, and the other is a series 2 parts car. One is undergoing a modified restoration - a few custom bodywork touches, F54 with triple Webers, mn47 head by Paul Ruschman, historic Electramotive cam, T5, R200, CenterForce II clutch, turbo driveline and half shafts, poly bushings, etc., etc. Another will be a winter project and will remain mostly stock. Best wishes to all of you. Are there any other Oregonians out there? Roger