240jetjoc

Dave - Sorry if I misspoke. The battery pack is actually lithium-polymer, saving nearly 400lbs. over John's previous lead-acid battery pack. The batteries are a pouch-type made by his primary sponsor, Dow/Kokam. The White Zombie was running at less than full power (only 723 electric horsepower) when it set the recent world record. John and his crew are still adjusting and testing the many recent Zombie modifications, and also playing with gearing. The car is capable of producing up to 1500 lbs/ft of instant and nearly continuous torque. The high 9's may be a possibility. For those interested, John's web site is: plasmaboyracing.com

I have a stock 1972 with 3.36 gears and a 1981 5-speed. It handles the taller 1st gear without problems. My car cruises effortlessly at 50mph or more in fifth gear. It will accelerate up rather steep hills in 5th gear without a hitch, even the coast range here in Oregon. Fuel economy is excellent. Would a 3.54 or lower ratio be better? Probably. Is it necessary? Not in my experience. Beandip has ridden in my car on several occasions and can verify my comments. The L24 has plenty of torque for a 2300 pound Z, even with the 81-83 5-speed.

gnosez - what brand and size are your wheels? They look awesome on your Z.

Thanks for your response, Philip. That was the type of insight I was looking for. I'll probably start with the BR7ES.

While on the subject of spark plugs, what would be your plug and gap recommendation for the following motor: L28 1mm over with Mn47 head (280Z valves, unshrouded, ported/polished, etc. and appr. 11.2:1 compression), .520 lift Rebello cam, and Electromotive direct ignition system. Thanks.

Chris - If you've made a few performance mods (bigger cam, head work, tripples, ignition, etc.), you might want to consider running twin 2" pipes from the header back. I had a similar setup on a 1972 over 30 years ago. I had long glass pack mufflers stacked in the transmission tunnel which allowed for longer tailpipes to the back of the car. In my opinion, having longer tailpipes produces a mellower and more pleasant tone, similar to Jags and other six cylinder sports cars of a bygone era.

I had the same problem with my 1972. The fuse looked great, but it was bad.

Sounds like you're not getting enough fuel. Check your fuel filter for blockage, then check fuel pressure and flow (fuel pump performance).

On the 1970-1971 Z's, you'll find that the 1972-1973 consoles will work with the later 5-speeds so that you don't have to modify your early consoles.

Knowing that our S30 speedometers are not that accurate, here is my speed story. The year was 1976, and the car was my very sweet 1972 240Z running Sempirit 195/70x14 tires on 7" wide rims. Modifications included a BRE stage 3 suspension package (very low), BRE front spook and rear spoiler, modified SU's, Crane slalom cam, Hooker headers and full dual exhaust system. With my brother driving and me in the passenger seat, we were "indicating" 144mph and still pulling when he had to back off as we approached our freeway exit. My 240 was rock solid with no hint of lifting. Without the spook (removed for repairs), the front would get very light approaching 125mph, even with the modified suspension. For those of you that like to drive fast, I highly recommend a BRE-type spook. My 1966 327/350hp Vette roadster with hardtop installed, would begin to seriously float at 135mph indicated. Except right off the line, my 240 would out accelerate the Vette, and would handle exceptionally better. Both cars had 3:36 ratios and four-speeds, but the Vette's four-speed was a close ratio. The Vette (and the Z, of course) would out accelerate my sisters 1969 GTO four-speed.

Once the lines are removed from your car, you can try some muriatic acid, diluted one to one with water, and applied with steel wool and lots of elbow grease. Besides cleaning the lines, the acid will eat away the steel wool, too. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection! As each line is completed, be sure to flush it inside and out with fresh, clean water (several times to stop the acid from continuing to react with the steel lines). Then blow out each line with compressed air and allow them to dry. Then, I flushed each line with WD40 and blew that out with compressed air. After that, I wiped each of my lines with some light oil on a rag. That was several months ago and my brake/gas lines still look nearly new. Be careful not to get the acid on your skin - it can cause a nasty burn. Ask me how I know that! Use this opportunity to check each line for excessive corrosion or other damage which might require line replacement for safety. All of the above is based on my personal experience. If anyone has had negative results with my method, please jump in. Good luck, and be careful.

Get well soon. Keep us posted on your recovery.

Daniel, Here is a write up I did for our NWZ club members. I can't take credit for this bushing upgrade - I read about it somewhere and did the upgrade on my 1972 Z. REPLACING WORN SHIFTER BUSHINGS The bushings I used were automotive door hinge bushings. The kit is made by HELP!, and the kit that you want is #38377. It will work on all Z four and five speed shifters from 1970 through 1983 (not including the BW T5). I bought my kit at Baxter's Automotive. They had to order it from downtown - however, I had it that same afternoon. I would call and see if they have it in stock. If not, they'll get it in for you. List price was $4.95. I lubed the bushings and shifter hole with white lithium grease, then used a vise to press the bushings into the shifter cross pin hole. Next, I put a little lithium grease into the bushings and on the pin, then I worked the pin in and out a few times. It gives a very snug fit with no bushing/pin sloppiness at all. There will be a small void between the two bushings. I filled that with grease for ongoing lubrication. When I put the shifter lever back into the tranny "ears", it was a little too tight. So I took a sheet of very fine sandpaper and laid it flat on my work bench. Then I rubbed the flat sides of the bushings in a circular motion for a few seconds (we're talking just a thousandth or two here). Then the lever slipped right into the tranny ears without problem. The whole process took about fifteen minutes - a piece of cake.

Hi John, NorthWest Z car club (www.northwestz.org) has been active for seven years and has a membership of 61 Z enthusiasts. Meetings are held in Wilsonville, OR on the first Wed. of each month. I think you would find membership very enjoyable and worthwhile. Two outstanding Z shops in the Portland area are Z Therapy in Salem and Rusch Motorsports in Sandy. You can't go wrong with either one. See you at our next meeting!

Hybridz.com has an excellent "sticky" on Weber carbs. Have a look.

Depending on what you're trying to achieve, the N42 head used with flat top pistons makes for decent performance on pump gas. The E31 , with the same flat top pistons, will give you a higher compression ratio. It will most likely require larger valves with some valve unshrouding to get proper breathing with the L28. You may need octane booster with the E31 to prevent detonation, depending on the octane level of the fuel in your area. You can also play with head gasket thickness to raise and lower your compression ratio. Just my two cents.

Before tapping on the threaded end of the tapered pin, screw a nut part way on to protect the threads. Do not try to remove the spindle pins without the tool that hls30.com mentioned. Contact Beandip. I borrowed his spindle pin removal tool and it worked great on three Z's. When you re-install the spindle pins after a good cleaning, coat them with anti-seize to make future removal much easier.

If you have an impact wrench, try a long extension and 6-point deep socket from the bottom of the car (with the car jacked up and well supported). Use a low power setting on the impact wrench so as not to break the studs. The pounding of the impact wrench may break them loose. I assume that you have soaked the seized nuts several times with Kroil or some other good penetrating oil. Soak the studs, too. If they come out with the nut, its no big deal. Your local Nissan dealer can get you new studs and nuts if you need them. Use never-seize when you re-install. Good luck.

Arne, Get in touch with Steve Eperly at Z Therapy in Salem. I'm sure he can solve your problem, or put you in touch with someone who can. He's a great guy, very knowledgeable, honest, and reasonably close to you.

Enigma, You are correct regarding the later, and larger chambered versions of the E88 vs. the N42. Please note that I said early E88 head. The first of the E88 series heads had combustion chambers that were essentially the same size as the E31 combustion chambers. Therefore yielding higher compression on an L24 than would an N42 head.

Both of those heads, without being shaved, will lower the the compression ratio on a stock L24. Although I'm not an expert by any means, those heads would probably create valve to bore clearance issues (without bore notching), as well. Others, more knowlegeable, will chime in and correct any of this info that is inaccurate. I wouldn't recommend either of those heads. If you're looking for performance on a stock L24 block, and if you have access to other heads, I would recommend an E31, early E88 (smallest combustion chambers of the E88 series heads), or Maxima N47 for a stock L24. The Maxima head should yield the highest compression ratio of the three. Best wishes.

Dreco - Great videos and a beautiful Z. Would you take a few momemts to desribe your Rebello motor (cc's, head, cam, dynoed power, etc.) and, especially, your exhaust system? I love the sound. Thanks.

I agree with 240ZX I've heard the same negative comments about the CenterForce, but you couldn't prove it by me. I drove my parts car 2200 miles with a nearly-new CenterForce II clutch unit. Ease of use and performance was flawless. That same clutch assembly is going into my modified series 1 (under construction).

I may be mistaken, but I believe the 260Z cam is a little hotter than the 280Z's cam. Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong.

My tripple 40 DCOE's ran great without a return line and pressure regulated at 3.5psi. What fuel pressure are you running on your triples - general consensus for Webers seems to be 3.5 - 4.0 psi. I'm not an expert by any means, but it sounds as though you have a fuel tank venting issue.