peter

Check the fuel filters, one in the engine bay, and the one in the electric pump in the rear. I bet your problem is there in the rear pump filter, esp. since it seemed to run better for a time after the fuel lines were cleaned.

I had a similar problem. If you have the electric fuel pump in the rear, it has an integral fuel filter. The bottom of the pump screws off, and there is a tiny cylinder type filter. Mine was completely corroded and gunked up. It might seem that the floats are the problem, but mine would stall, or act like it wanted to, then start back up in a couple seconds. I have a 73 240 with early SU's. I simply pulled the elec pump, bypassed it, and use only the mechanical pump on the engine. It solved my problem. One day I am going to clean up the elec pump and use it as a spare if the mechanical one ever fails. Hope that helps. peter

I have new spark plugs, pertronix ignitor and coil. I need to check the valve clearances. I did balance the carbs with a uni-syn. Mostly I am trying to figure out why the big difference between the two inspections, with maybe a month between them, and a carb swap. My assumption.... oops, don't go there. I guess I should double check my timing as well, as the prior mechanic may have just set it to run okay with the old carbs. Thanks for the info on exhaust gases, that's helpful. Peter

I was sitting in the inspection line, and I noticed that the oil guage was reading 0 at low (8-850 rpm) idle. WHAT?!!?? heart attack time. I raced the engine and the needle came up. I failed inspection, so my mind was not on the oil on the way home. Guess I have to pick up a mechanical guage. At 2K rpm, the needle is about a third to half. Glad I found this thread. peter 73 240

I need help! I have a 73 240, new to me. I took it in to get it inspected (new jersey) with the old flattop carbs, and it failed emissions. HC high and CO high. No problem, I had planned to swap the carbs for early round-tops, which I did (new 3-screws from ztherapy). Not sure I got the mixture right, but it seemed to run okay, idle at about 800-850. Failed again, CO within spec (.57%, but HC thru the roof, almost six times the earlier readout, ten plus times allowable spec. If the only change was the carbs, what happened? I adjusted the mixture screw richer and richer, and never got a condition where lifting the piston caused no change in rpms; it always made the rpms drop. And I was way past 4 turns out from max lean. All the emissions stuff is off and plugged, no air pump, egr, etc. I'd like to be able to tune this car without the mechanic, but right now it seems I need someone with an exhaust analyzer. Ay thoughts would be appreciated. peter 73 240