jagnew3

I knew that was the car, I came so close to buying it or the caddy that was sitting on the east side of the bldg. There was an old wrecher inside that was pretty cool too. It was a treasure trove. Sorry, I didn't post sooner, I have been very ill, and am still just getting back on track. Tuesday I drove the Z to work..Ahhh success! If I have enough energy tomarrow I'll make a pass down elm swamp

Stephen, laughing with me is better anyway. It was the type of thing that happens to me when I get in a hurry, not really a Godsmack, but more of a thing that happens to make me laugh at myself, while providing a lesson of humility..I need that...a lot! the vac advance plate in the old distrubute was definately shot, still missing two bearings, so It's good to have a new one in there. And I guess the new coil aint a bad thing, so we'll see what excuse it give me next. It seems as if the 900-3100 power is a bit flat.not real bad just flat. Past that, it is really fast. And man will it cut a right hander. Stephen, this won't mean much to you, but walter prolly knows Elm Swamp rd., and elizaville rd...better road courses, INDOT was never built! I had to keep reminding myself "you just put it together..ease up! Back to the rotor, I had read about 50 posts on distributers....about 3/4 cautioned of forgetting the rotor, or is the rotor in etc etc etc...duh! I thought....I can be so forgetful sometimes!

walter..where did you pick that car up? There was one of similar year, with the same wheels as your picture shows, inside that ole giant shop on Patterson that they tore down a year or two ago. I almost bought it. Just wondered. Yeah, the new distributer was $108. coil $29..driving it up to ice cream paradise tonight....priceless!

Well, I got my new distributor today. Got it installed...turned the key..nothing. Ran a wire to the + terminal on the brand new coil....turned the key..nothing. Pulled the #6 plug (heavy fuel smell..and wet as the day is long) cleaned it and placed it but the shock tower nut....nothing. So, I'm walking around the garage in dispair..wondering how much I would spend..and on what next, and then I see it.....there, right there next to the tools on the floor. My rotor..ROG! I install the rotor on my new distributor, TAHDAH! So I turn the key off, because the # 6 plug and wire are no installed..and guess what??? The car won't shut down. Turns out the same idiot who forgot to install my rotor, also forgot to remove the jumper from + batt. to + coil.. I'm starting a pool on what will break next, and when..so send those dollars today folks

Walter, we gotta meet up sometime..how's the project comming?

Charlie's radiator shop on 106th and collage..Carmel...Good people, they take care of the radiators on our drill rigs.

You got that right stephen. Ran great Yesterday, parked it..would not run this am. No spark, *&^%$#@! Distributer, looks a bit nasty (rusty, corroded) Went to tak it apart for cleaning...and one odf the bearing holder was broke..and two bearings are missing. So i have a new one comming. My manual is trapped in my computer at work, but here's my description. There is a "pick up with two wires on one side of the shaft, and a "magnet" on the other. The magnet was rusted and orroder, and so was the part of the shaft it is facing.. I also put a new coil on today. I just found it strange that is was great when parked, and no fire this morning. At least the fuel pressure help all night, and After a lot of cranking, I could get the hint of fuel in the air. Hopefully the new distribiter takes care of it. Any other ideas?

ah, What a great day! Got the tank back thurs. It was bare metal inside and out. Coated the inside thursday night. The outside friday night. And mounted it, and test drove it today. What a rush! Thanks again for all the help. It's been a long road. The cost of the tank boiling, inside coating, and outside coating $ 140...worth every penny.

Hello Stephen...missed you..the tank is out being boiled, and while it was I spent my time bidding on one on ebay..as back up. The guy I was bidding aginst seemed to need it worse then me so I let it go in the last hour, He got it for $180+ shipping. My tank redo is costing about $125, so there was really no point to continue with the auction. I got my final title work and plate registration done this week, and so, I'm waiting for the tank to be returned, and then I will do some long road testing. I qualified for the Indiana antique plate( extra $30 and a Indiana State Police inspection to cert. that the car is operational), but in the end didn't want to brand the Z an antique just yet.. How do you like my fuel cell? I really wanted to run a bunch of fuel through the system, and thought it was the best way to do it as I waited on my tank. (not intended for hyway use) I have since added a vent line to keep the tank from building pressure.

Was the site down for a few days, or was it just me?

ROG...some folks will do anything to make something run! (including me) he only thing I really shoud have changed was running a vent line to the outside, the tank tends to swell after a bit..maybe that will be my next trick..

Okay here's the tank inside http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d168/jagnew3/Z%20page/DVC00009.jpg And here is what 2 cans of sea foam sloshed around in there, then drained look like http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d168/jagnew3/Z%20page/DVC00013.jpg And here is something, I want to state in advance is a bad idea..and stress should never be done should never be done...but I did it, after a long out of car test session. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d168/jagnew3/Z%20page/DVC00008.jpg ran the car three hours today on that and there was no fuel related problem during that time..car ran awesome..again, don't try this..ever.

Parked, or are we gonna try to drive? Funny thread BTW!

I hear you Stephen, I thought for sure the volume was good, and it seems to be..if the tank is all the way up. You should have seen the release of pressure when I opened the fuel cap, after pumpung 5 gal into about 4.5 gal worth of space...you would think that working around boats all these years I'd be a little more sensitive to the exploding nature of fuel vapor. I drained the tank last night, and will drop it Sat. Do you think there is a chance for damage to the pick up, or more of a crud/ rust problem? I hear about "boiling" the tank..what all do the radiator shops do during this process? Should this boiling take care of any crud that might be in there? So many questions for such a tiny tiny brain.

tank all along gents. I ran a hose to a 5 gal tank,got it primed...ran w/o a problem...until it had sucked the 5 gal dry...note to self..the unused fuel has to go someplace...duh.....make sure there is room for at least 5 gal in the car's fuel tank. doesn't take long to go through 5 gal. I noticed as the tank started going down the problem would happen much faster..when the tank is full the car runs long w/o the trouble.. BTW I did get all new connectors an everything out of the deal..and that aint bad. Looks like the tanks comes out this weekend.

been quiet today...too quiet.. I didn't get back out there to work on the wiring. but I put a new connector on a week or two ago. now I am noticing some of the wire in the harness to that sensor is cracked. I think I will take the senser out, clean it and test it. Then replace the wiring. I'll feel bad in a way if this is it, because we talked about it a while back in the thread, and though I changed the connector..I really prolly blew by it too fast.

Something is very...very wrong. I believe the egr leak is in the tube. But that's not what is interesting. For some reason, I decided it would be fun to pinch the vacume line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. At once my pressure gauge went to just a tick over 36....Hmm I thought, so I removed the line, and capped the tube...car ran great..I'd gun it.36 lbs, I'd idle..36lbs..constant 36 lbs w/o the vacume line hooked up..Now to make it even more strange, the car did eventually begin to lose pressure..just like always, but it took longer (higher pressure took longer to lean I suspect) Here is the wierd thing. When it started to happen I started playing with wires. Here's what I found. I goofed with the wires going to the thermotime switch..but when I started messing with the water temp sensor I was able to get the fuel pressure to recover..until I pulled the connector off by accident..then the car would barely run. eventually after many futile attempts...the car shut down. It took about 1/2 hour to get it to pump again..though the pump would run as always. When it di I ran it for a long time, and played with the wires going to the water temp sensor..each time I unhooked them..the engine would race, then runlike crap..hook em up..ran good. Finally when the car heated up..the problem began, only this time by playing with the plug, and the wires..I was able to recover the pressure...wierd huh?

I suspect the egr and will confirm today...would this lessen the manifold pressure enough to cause my fuel regulator to stay partially closed?

mine is the 305

280z1975 beat me to the link..I'm still a neeby, and wanted to do my first help...Dang..I'm too slow.. Rod is it about the color of mine?

One other thing...what do you think the Hissssssssssss that I hear comming from the rear, underside of the intake manifold is? I can hear it as it runs, and when I turn the engine off It lasts about 10-15 seconds. It shounds like it's comming from the steel tube running out of the in. manifold to the ex. manifold...is this normal?

Yup..20 min. later...I turn the ignition on, I trip the AFM.....suck suck....and pressure to 36. Start the engine...30-32 psi, gun it jump to around 40, sustain 2500 rmp..pressure to 24-26 sustained let off fuel.. pressure drops to 18-20 for a few swconds and recovers to 30 at idle. then after the car has been running a while...the pressure slowly drops to 0 as the car comes to a sputtering backfiring death.. wait 20min/ 30 min.. repeat as nessisary.. Car runs like a raped ape, until this happens. How does the TPS contribute to the amount of fuel going into the system? Does it simply tell the ecu how long to hold the injectors open? Does it tell a relay what voltage the pump should get, there by slowing down the pump? A combo of the two? The whine of the old factory pump would change pitch when all this was going on. I wondered if something was telling the pupm to slow down for way too long, causing it to dry out as the engine used the remaining fuel.and comming to a point where it couldn't prime running at low voltage, until it was givin' the voltage back (about 20 min. later, ) I don't know

The plot thickens..I managed a bit of time and reinstalled my newly sealed AFM hose, and the air fuel meter, car ran good, as always. Ran it around the block..ran good..then as it sat in the driveway it started to stumble and died, like always and the fuel pressure went to zero...but here's the thing, I went back and looked at the G3 filter.....still had the same amount of fuel in it as it had had while running, and still looks clean . i tried and tried to get that baby to pump fuel..and it would just run..w/o pumping..but I'll bet in an hour..it will w/o really trying..and it will run good...and then it won't My main point is that there is fuel just before the pump when this happens...hmmmm

Did some read, and the adjustment bolt I was talking about id the altitude adjust..it's in about 18 turns from the top. Got the hole plugged, but won't get to reinstall thing til tomarrow. I suspect the air flow meter too Stephen..and the TPS, though it seems to be kicking the fuel in and out.

Okay, the G3 was installed...air was blasted into the pick up line prior to install....a new std fuel filter was installed..after a long priming period, it was running again. But, only at 30 psi idle. A few observations. The G3 never is completely full of fuel while the car is running, or not running. The psi goes up as I give it gas To around 38-40..then comes down as I sustain throttle to about 26, as I let off the gas, it dips to around 22, and as it finds idle it rests at 30-32 again. I did find an air leak (about the size of a pencil in the hose between the AFM and the throttle housing. Also the adjustment bolt (with the white cap) on the AFM has been tampered with.