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Hello All, I got serious about buying a Z over the summer. I've been in love with them since I was about 8. I've been reading the forums for about six months and after test driving two found Layla three weeks ago. She's a two owner car, originally from VA but owned since 1976 from the guy I bought it from. He bought it from a Datsun dealership when it was three years old. He drove it around TX and TN in the 70s and 80s and into the 90s. 159,XXX original miles. He said the first owner installed a roll bar, chrome rims, and headers. I have all of his registrations and most documentation of stuff he's done to it. It has pretty much sat in storage for the past 10-15 years with him spending $2,000 a couple years ago (have receipts) trying to get it back on the road. He said this car has outlived any relationship he's ever had, and backed out of selling it to someone else once before. I'm not going to say I stole it, but he gave me one heck of a deal in my opinion including a military discount. Before I bought it I had it put on a lift and did a dry compression test on the engine. It is "virtually rust free," with the factory undercoating still on it. It was repainted 10 years ago in the factory silver color. There is a 3"x3" patch pop riveted onto the driver's side floor, and 2"x2" hole on the passengers side under the seat, likely from the A/C condensation. He told me he never looked under the car. Not necessarily believable, but I believe some people never do so. I also have the FSM and the Mechanic's manual, not sure what it's called, and the carb balance meter. There is also a 1.5" hole under the batter tray. The interior looks great in my opinion; it has a dashcap with one crack, seat covers, stock floor mats, brand new carpet otherwise. Headliner is original and looks great. The engine compression yielded 145-150 psi in all cylinders except one; 1st cylinder was 135. I would've liked higher numbers, but the engine has a good amount of miles so I'm happy at this point. When I test drove it, the car was a little sluggish, but the guy was just frustrated saying "it's not the car it used to be." He said his local mechanic refused to rebuilt the SUs. Since I've had it, I've done the following things: Things I've done thus far: - Castrol high mileage 10w-30 oil change with "engine restore," Lucas oil treatment, and sea foam. Normally I wouldn't put this many additives in, but the car has basically been sitting for 10 years. - Filled gas tank with 93 octane gasoline and fuel system cleaner to help burn off carbon deposits. (I think I'll go lower next tank) - Adjusted intake and exhaust valves to factory specifications. - Replaced rattling muffler with a Magnaflow Turbo XL model. - Replaced 2 year old champion spark plugs with Bosch platinum version. I wanted NGK plugs to go with my wires but they weren't in stock. Plugs were gapped at the higher end of the factory recommendation to accommodate for the higher octane fuel to 0.035". - Spent two hours cleaning the upper half of the carbs and balancing them to factory specs. I will rebuild them within two months. - Cleaned/degreaser valve cover. - Next steps are to put in new distributor points, condenser, and oil pressure sending unit. Flush transmission and rear end gear oil. Buy a timing light and dial in the timing. Replace/upgrade coil. I have been meaning to start this thread since I bought the car; I am behind so I'll be updating the progress I've already completed on a gradual basis. The pictures are after the things I did listed above. Thanks for reading.

View Advert 1973 240z off fresh 2.8L build, SoCal Car & Head Turner Time to sell my 1973 240z- that I brought from Southern California to Pennsylvania 15 years ago. Since that time the Z has been kept in a garage and only driven during Spring, Summer and Fall. She's a head turner of a vehicle- Looks fantastic from 10 feet away. Up close, you'll notice some chips (filled and polished) and cosmetic blemishes, but mechanically this is a rock solid car. Freshly rebuilt engine with less than 500 miles on it. The Enkei wheels really set off the elegant lines of the 240z. Outside of a concours restoration, you won't fine a cleaner engine bay. I'm an engineer by profession and I saw to only the highest quality parts were used in every facet of the restoration. Documentation available for the mechanical work on the engine. I'll also include the 3 tomes that guided me through the restoration: Haynes, Chilton's, and "How to Rebuild Your Nissan & Datsun OHC Engine" by Tom Monroe. Why am I letting this cherry go? Well, my wife says I can only have one project car at a time, so after 15 years, it's time for this Z to plaster a smile on someone else's face. FYI, this vehicle was previously listed, but I pulled it down so I could use it for a promotional event at my company. Now it's back on the market! Details on upgrades and parts: P79 Cylinder Head from California Datsun, See their product here (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-ZX-Rebuilt-P79-Engine-Motor-Cylinder-Head-OEM-/153478322664?hash=item23bc0559e8) Work as follows: 1. Complete disassemble, Inspection and Pressure test 2. Re-Surface Intake Gasket Side, Head Gasket Side 3. 3 Angle Valve Job on Seats, 45 Degree on Valves 4. Cleaned , Inspected and Polished Rocker Arms 5. Cleaned, Inspected and Installed OEM stock Springs, Retainers and Lash Pads 6. Cleaned, Inspected and Polished Camshaft. 7. Full Set of new Valve Seals Installed. 8. All threads cleaned and repaired as needed 9. New Freeze Plug, Painted and Full Reassembly with Valve Adjustment F54 Engine Block Hot Tank Cleaning, Magnaflux, Resurface Deck, Rebore and Hone New +0.5mm Pistons, Fresh Paint, New OEM rings New Water Pump New Oil Pump New Timing Chain and Guides Every Seal replaced New Freeze Plugs. Other Upgrades and Restoration Work: 4 piston Front Disc Brakes (1989 Toyota 4X4) Wilwood Master Cylinder K&N Air Filter Fully Rebuilt Z-Therapy “Round Top” SU Carbs New Door Panels Replaced Dashboard Enkei Wheels New Centerforce Clutch 1979 Electronic Distributor 5 Speed Transmission New Front Seats 3 row aluminum radiator Electric Fan Electric Fuel Pump Reconditioned Fuel tank and replaced evaporative system hoses 6-1 Ceramic Powder Coated Headers Polished Intake Manifold with Euro Style Balance Tube (Polished and Painted) Inertial Safety Switch And much more! Advertiser luxetz Date 07/24/2019 Price $22,333.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1973 Model 240z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Stunning Body Style, which was how Nissan originally designed the 240z. However the safety laws in the United States became stricter and the 240z was only built as a Fastback with a hatch (that commonly leaked in the rain and caused many 240zs to rust out in the back). Fiberglass kits were sold years ago to turn the 240z into a convertible. This is one of those cars. Originally sold in San Diego, it went to Utah. I bought it 10 years ago off Craigslist. During that time I got it running and made it safe to drive. It is registered legally in California. Because it is a 1973, it does not require a Smog Certificate ever. This car has the L28 (280z) engine with its matching 5-speed transmission. It has the stock SU Carburetors with the stock air cleaner and electronic ignition. It has a brand new super high-output Optima Yellow Top battery. The interior is gutted. It has rust in the center of the car underneath (not inside) but is completely clear with no rust at all from (and including) the firewall forward and from the back of the seats rearward. If you want to replace the frame rails then here is where you purchase new ones http://baddogparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1 . The body has bracing to strengthen it throughout. There is a front upper strut tie bar. The previous owner made a lattice brace to tie the rear struts for structural strength. The fiberglass kit does not allow easy access and I would have modified it. With the weight of the Fastback metal removed this car, unmodified, is faster than most 240zs. It is right at the point where someone needs to complete this project. I have decided to not complete the project that I have started on this because I wanted to make this my Daily Driver. I do not want to sell it but it is too far away to complete the project, so I have decided to go in a different direction. This car will only be available during this month. Next month I will not need the money for my next purchase and then it will never be for sale again. If you have ever wanted something that nobody else has then this is your car. It starts and runs perfectly. Headlights work. Brakes are stock and work fine. It is wicked fast and stunning.

Meet Looey, my new 1973 Fairlady Z. She moved from Japan to USA with a returning service man, then believed to have spent most of her time in Louisville Kentucky. Now owned by an Australian living in Boston. Previous owner had her for 21 years (almost to the day). Has been restoring it since he acquired her. Put just over 1000 km on the clock over the years. Speedo reads 89k - not sure if rolled over. Looey has not been started for 4 years. She will need some coaxing to come back to life... Plans Stage 1 - Running & Registered Stage 2 - Fix high priority items - interior fixes, seals, etc. Stage 3 - Remove flares and body fixes. Stage 4 - 6 ......

New to the site, I've done a lot of Google but can't find the answer I'm looking for anywhere. Basically I'm rebuilding a california 1973 datsun 240z it has a e88 and p30. As far as I'm aware it hasn't been rebuilt. I purchased some new pistons however these came with no valve reliefs whereas the ones in the engine do have valve reliefs. I'm guessing that the valve reliefs are there for a reason. Maybe due to the 73s having bigger valves? (If I read correctly). I was effectively wondering if there's any chance I could run without valve reliefs. Quite expensive getting hold of new pistons here in the UK so thought I'd ask whoever unlikely

i just brought home a 1973 240z. i was parked outside for about 1 year. i got it to start and it runs good. now starts as soon as you turn the key. though im having some issues with a few things. the glove box is locked and i didnt get the key for it. the hatch lock wont unlock.(i broke my spare key trying to unlock it) so i need guidance opening those and making the brakes stronger.(barely any stopping power) i would like to take out the emissions control crap if i can. the dash lights do not light up. thank you in advance

i just bought a 1973 240z for my first car. it turns over but doesnt start. it turns over really smooth but just wont fire. what should i do first to try to get it to start? it has original su carbs. any help will be greatly appreciated.

Hello classiczcar members. I must say that I have been on the site searching and searching for a quite a while. I decided it was long over due to introduce myself. I live in Longview, WA and I have had my 1973 240z for a little over a year now. I picked it up down in Portland, OR and have done quite a bit to it to get it on the road and recently started tearing it down for some rust repair and paint prep. It had been sitting for 10 years in a garage and was the same owner for last 20 years. I've loaded just a few pictures in my album to start, unfortunately I didn't take many before I started taking it apart so most of them are just repair shots. To get on the road I've replaced the gas tank, installed poly bushings, replaced a stub axle, installed a R200 3.9 rear end and ZX 5speed among some other little things. It has some rust, but overall could be worse. I've replaced the dog legs and hatch sill so far. The floor pans and frame rails are not showing major problems that I can see. The worst rust seems to be in the doors. I plan on painting it the original white. I appreciate the knowledge that this site provides. Thanks, Marc

i'm just venturing into the world of car restoration and i'm starting with one of my all time favorite cars, the 240z. my grandpa gave it to me as long as i promised not to sell it, but i want to preserve it as a family heirloom. i thought it would be fine, just need some interior work and a little TLC for the engine, but it had been sitting for longer than i thought. i dont even know where to begin. i started by tearing out the carpet and insulation in the interior because it's all trashed and will need replacing. where should i go next? i have attached a link to some picture of the car i took today. i'm keeping a journal of the restoration process and all the stories my grandpa tells me when i go over to work on it. anyways, once i get it cleaned up and on blocks, what should i do first? get started on replacing things on the engine? do whatever it takes to get the thing to turn over? dissassemble and paint the body? where is the ideal starting point? it has the original block and i want to keep the original block in it. i dont mind changing out other parts like alternators and such, but it would be nice to keep anything with a vin on it the same. also did all 73's come with the hood vents? thanks, rob photos of my 1973 240z