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Hello everyone, and thanks in advance for any help you can give me. My 1976 280z was running fine last time I drove it, but after sitting in the CA sun for 2 years, I'm struggling to get it back on the road. After draining out the old gas, I have a new battery, new spark plugs, and a couple gallons of new gas in. When I go to start it, all I get is cranking, and no turn over, and I have yet to hear the fuel pump cone on. I've tried moving the new battery to the rear and getting 12v to the fuel pump directly, but this doesn't get the fuel pump going either, just a click. I also don't seem to be getting power to the fuel pump when cranking. Any ideas on what might be going on, or existing threads on this that I can go off of would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Oscar **Also zero fuel pressure when cranking** *Reading taken under the hood, after the fuel filter*

I have had my z for a couple of months (1976 280z) had some trouble with the ignition relay at first (accessories did not work) but got them working in the end. Started driving it 2 weeks ago no problems everything worked fine. Then last week I went to start it and it had no spark so after messing with the ignition relay and coil for a bit I found one of the fuseable links was bad (the one that goes to the lights, whippers and washer motor controls.) I replaced it hooked up every thing tured the key, and nothing worked then I heard a relay click and a fizz frying type sound comming from the passanger side didnt smell any thing. I took out the igniton relay and took it apart and all the wiring harness conectors. Checked the relay and filed the contacts and hooked it back up and still nothing. If I turn the lights on the voltage gauge pegs below 12 volts and the lights dont turn on the head lights will on the second click. I tried unhooking all the wires connecting to that control arm and still nothing when i tured the key. I could still hear the clock ticking aswell. I am thinking about taking the dash out I also need to replace the heater core, do some rust work on the fire wall and under the battery, and carpet aswell as some lights and what not behide the dash. Thank you.

Hello I just bought a 1976 280z, My first z but i have done a lot of research on them. It will start up easily and run cold well at around 800rpm. But once it warms up (the temp gauge is about in the middle.) It will drop down to 500rpm and stutter. If I give it barley any throttle to bring it to 800 rpm it is fine but if I go up to 1000-1200rpm it will back fire through the intake and exhaust. The plugs are back but not fouled. If I manually control the AFM it will run fine. I also unplugged the connector to the cold start injector but it did not seem to change anything. I am thinking the temperature sensor is the problem. also there might be some vacuum issues because of any dry rot (I plan to re-do all of the vacuum lines). I do not a lot about how the efi works on these cars except for the basics, and I would like to know how everything works. -Thank you

I have a 1976 280Z non calif, with a 5spd (one of the previous owners must have installed the trans as 1976 did not come with 5spd). I noticed the wires on my vacuum switching valve were completely toast and I cant find a replacement part anywhere. To my knowledge the vacuum switching valve adjusts timing for 4th gear. Yet since I have a 5spd, is this switch even necessary? Does the trans have a top gear switch that tells the vacuum switch to engage past 4th? I took it apart and can attempt to clean and resolder the connection if its still needed. The car has only idled in the driveway since I bought it in the fall so I have no idea how it behaves while running through the gears. Thanks

Found this BRE Tribute on BAT while I was doing a little browsing...

My apologies if this is a duplicate, the system seems to have just swallowed my carefully crafted posting (telling me I wasn't logged in). Here goes again. I just bought a 1976 280Z as a project car. The body is in good shape but its been partially dismantled. The previous owner took it apart to move some performance parts to his new Z. So it came with the EFI intake/throttle off the car (along with a bag of misc stuff). Exhaust is missing (I have MOTORSPORT TBC Coated 6-1 Header, and MSA premium exhause on order from the Z store). Bumpers are off. Interior taken apart. Drum brakes need work (in-progress - Front disks/calipers look great though). Previous owner upgraded distributor to ZX/electronic, replaced fusible links with fuse block, new dash cap/carpet. My first goal is to get it put back together and running to see what I have. Since the EFI intake/throttle is off the car I decided to replace the injectors (on order) and clamps (one side of the fuel rail had standard hose clamps rather than EFI clamps - looks like one of the injectors was replaced a while back). I have mostly stripped the manifold and would like to give it a good cleaning (along with the throttle which I have removed). What is the best way to clean them inside and out? Carb cleaner and elbow grease? Have it dipped? Something else? Putting it all back together will be an adventure. The previous owner did mark the wiring harness (I will clean all the contacts with deoxit) and I found the Datsun EFI Theory/Troubleshooting book on-line - I think most of my questions will be answered there. I will replace all of the vac hoses and any water/fuel host that doesn't look new (some look newly replaced). I have a new throttle gasket on hand. I will get all new injector hold-down bolts (not screws!) and tighten them appropriately when I reassemble. Any other suggestions while EFI intake is off the car? What would you do? Thanks, Dan PS, Here it is:

Hello all I'm a first time poster here. Picked up my 1976 280z auto last week and began picking up turbo parts. I plan on running a holset hx35. Now I've gathered: P90 head, which is missing a rocker arm. This will get machined and ported/polished. Megasquirt 1 extra. Not sure what sensors I need to pick up that my l28 doesn't already have on it. Also picked up an intercooler and piping. Now I know I need a tps off of a 240sx but have yet to find one. Is there any other options? To complete the list I believe all I'll need is: BOV, wastegate, turbo manifold, supra injectors (what year?), and I'll do the downpipe and 02 sensor bung myself

I recently completed a compression check on my 1976 280z It's all original from what I was told when I bought the car... Engine Has 103xxx Miles on it... and the Last 3xxx I have driven. It hasn't had any major issues in the past that I am aware of, but I did have to reseal the fuel tank and clean out and replace a few fuel Injectors. Results: Cylinder Pressure ..............(Dry).....(Wet) 1 ... 130 ... 140 2 ... 120 ... 130 3 ... 80 ... 90 4 ... 110 ... 120 5 ... 120 ... 130 6 ... 110 ... 120 I don't Know what the pressure should be but, I'm pretty sure 80/90 on one cylinder isn't right. The car accelerates kind of slow and always has(its an old automatic transmission never really expected anything super amazing). It tops out at about 35/40mph(which isn't right I was getting to 70 on the highways before this issue). And It makes a Metallic clicking sound once it hits 3000-4000rpm. Any help or advice would be appreciated.