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Picked up a beautiful Hitachi KM-1821ZF now the task of figuring out reverse engineering the ugly CD player. any help or suggestions is more than welcome 🙏

Hi there, this is my first post on here. Thinking about putting side stripe kit on my 77' 280z. Curious of anyone who has done this, where you purchased them, placement, and any tips. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Ryan

Evans 280z front pully gear 36-1 tooth.dwg I made it out of 1018 steel used a CNC water jet to cut it. I know I was in need of some specs and I finally broke down and made my own and I want to share it with other people who need this. Everyone feel free to use it or modify it. Enjoy!!!

Update: Just want to thank everyone who has replied. I haven't fixed the problem but its great to hear other peoples opinions and suggestions! So i just want to start off by saying I am in no way an experienced mechanic. I am having a problem with my 1977 Datsun 280z and am willing to hear anyone's thoughts. So I haven't driven this car much. i bought it and it had a leak in the exhaust manifold. Since i had to take it all off i decided to buy headers. While removing the EGR tube, the tube was damaged so I decided to remove the EGR. I remove the EGR use a block off plate from a Z store. I capped off the vacuum that leads to the egr. Now for the problem. When in the driveway the car sound great. I can rev it as high as i want and it sounds perfect. when driving around normally it feels fine as well. The problem comes when driving a bit faster or opening the throttle quickly. When im driving and pass about 4000 rpms the car starts to sputter and i can smell gas. It feels as if its not getting enough air to burn the gas in the cylinder. If im drivng fast and step of the clutch and rev theres no problem. the sputter only happens when im actually putting gas to the wheels. Does anyone have any idea what can cause this? The fact that it acts so well in the driveway or with the clutch in throws me off hard.

Hi all: I searched here for the answer, and I Googled a bit for a source. But no luck so far, other than Ebay, which has connectors that don't look the same as mine. I noticed on my '77 (that I just bought) that the AFM connector does not seem to have any retaining means in the AFM. If I unbolt the AFM, the connector falls out as soon as I move it. I'm concerned the connector will fall out while driving. Is there a source for a replacement connector, aside from getting an entire harness? I can't even tell what is supposed to retain it. But I assume this is not an uncommon issue. Before I shell out $300+ for a harness, I'll explore a home-made solution. But I'd rather replace the plug (or whatever retains it if that can be retrofitted). Thanks in advance, John.

Hi all: First post, so go easy on me. I don't own a Z yet. But I'm going to look at one (a '77 280) that may become available for sale. Current owner says he let the car sit for a couple of years, and the fuel went bad. He drained the tank and refilled with good gas. The car will start, but won't run for long before shutting off. He says it starts right back up and then dies again. He and I discussed, and theorize that there is crud (probably rust) in the tank getting sucked into the tank outlet screen and clogging it. If that theory is right, I assume the tank needs to be cleaned out, and maybe coated to prevent rust. I'm only beginning to learn about these cars. So I don't know what else to look for. It seems that the fuel pump works, and the engine otherwise has spark, or it wouldn't start at all. I'm going to look at the car on Saturday. I plan to take a fuel pressure gauge, starting fluid and a spare fuel filter. What else could be wrong that can be tested without too much trouble? I'm hoping for an easy fix if he decides to sell it to me. Thanks in advance, John.

Hey guys (and gals), I'm the new proud owner of a 1977 280z. I don't know a ton about cars, but I'm mechanically handy and I have downloaded and read through the FSM and the FIB for the car. When I first got the car, it had been sitting for a year and wouldn't run at all. After replacing the fuel pump, it starts and runs, but very very rich. It fouls all 6 spark plugs in short order and idles very rough, occasionally dying. I first suspected the CSV, so I disconnected it with no success, though the engine still started fine so I have left it disconncted. Then I pulled the CSV to see if it was leaking fuel, but it was fine as well. Next I checked the water temperature sensor and air temperature sensor, which reported 2520 ohms and 2260 ohms at the ECU in around 68 degree weather. Finally, I ran through most of the ECU checks in the Fuel Injection Bible and while the air regulator circuit failed, it would result in an overly lean fuel air mixture, right? I rented a fuel pressure gauge, at idle between the fuel filter and the rail it was around 32 PSI, which I know is slightly low. Since it's a new fuel pump, this makes me think that the fuel pressure regulator is suspect. Would a messed up FPR cause a low fuel pressure and make the car run rich? I checked the fuel return line to the tank by blowing in it and after momentary resistance, I could blow through. I also put the fuel pressure gauge between the rail and the fuel return line. There it indicated no pressure. I then pulled the line while the engine was running and very little to no fuel was being returned at idle. I pulled the cover off the AFM, all the contacts look good, the flap moves freely, and the glue blobs all appear untampered with. At idle, the flap moves about 1cm back, though if I finger it to the lean side, the car runs much smoother. I've considered tweaking it a few teeth toward the lean side, but I would rather get to the root of the problem. A few other things I've tried: adjusting the idle screw with no real change, pulled the oil cap while idling and felt vacuum resistance plus it ran worse, visually inspected all vacuum lines and tightened hose clamps, and examined the electrical connections. I'm sure I've tried a few other things and forgotten to write them down, but please suggest any boneheaded thing I may have missed. I feel like my problem is with the FPR, but most of the threads I've read on it say your car will run leaner when the FPR fails. I've also considered replacing my water temp sensor even though it tested fine at room temperature since it seems to be a likely candidate. I know I probably need to check my vacuum pressure next, but I wanted to consult the gurus here before I spend any more money.