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Hello All, Mart here,I bought a Datsun 280zx slick roof 2+2.. in or around september 2013.. It's a funny story, Always looking for a Datsun z or zx one day Bart (Yes, from bartscooterservice also here on the forum) told me there was a 280zx for sale in a town near his. These days i'm not working anymore because of a accident at work and a later flattening a motorbike against a tree.... But after Bart told me there was a 280zx i wondered if it was still that one i remembered from the '90's when i was at that Nissan sub-dealer for his burglar alarm inspections, i was a service engineer at that time.. It was a blue car put away in 1993-94, in a storage in the back of the garage! In 2013 the owner stil recognized me and confirmed me that it was stil the same car! It has 119000 Km on the clock and was not driven since 1994, The engine was started every year and that saved it.. After i saw in how good condition it was, (compared to a lot of terribly rusty rustbuckets) i bought the car! I went to pick up the car in January 2014 and did all the mechanical work in 2014 and 2015. Now the car is stil at my Painter who did/does al the welding also for me. At first he told me the car wil be ready in may but now he says June... Don't matter to me, only thing i care for that it is done the right way! Now i'm prepairing al the parts to put back on the car.. (Made hundreds of pictures..) I got a question: A Datsun 240z has a rubber part around his tailgate hinge, i found no rubber near those of the 280zx? Is there no rubber cover seal ? When the hinge is taken out there is a big hole in the roof edge, when cleaning i can imagine that there can get a lot of water into the roof causing a lot of trouble? If there is no rubber for the hinge, i think a peace of inner tubing of a bike can close it, putting it in between.. Like to here your solution! Pic.1 before restoring Pic. Pic.2 ready for paint. NOTICE: the stil perfect "welds" under the rear lights.. in europe these are always rusted away, here...stil perfect.. also the bottom of the car NO welding needed! Awesome!! Pic.3 front ready for paint. PICTURE 4: the holes in roof for the hinges tailgate..

Teflon suit on - Check Here goes... Ok, first post here and relatively new Z owner (1.5yrs, 260z 2+2 Auto). The car has weber 32/36 conversion with all the smog stuff removed. It runs decently well, but is rich at idle and takes a bit of cranking (6+) to start if it sits longer than 2 days. It doesn't have a lot of power but I don't really know the baseline. The engine runs smooth, and it definitely pulls ok, but I think it's probably in the 75% range of what it could do if tuned properly. It has a resonator and catalytic converter and original exhaust manifold. I recently switched to non-ethanol and it seems to like that a little bit more, slightly easier cold-starting, a little less missing and oddness. The engine/exhaust note isn't anything I'd brag about and it's more along the lines of a chill cruiser (partly probably reinforced by the auto transmission). Finally, the webers just don't look right in there and I just really love the original look of the SU's with the orange airbox. Sooo... I picked up a few Flat Tops (a NOS front, and a used pair with an airbox) and a refurb kit, thinking I would keep it correct for the year, but without re-configuring all the emissions stuff. I'm looking for some advice here from folks who have experience with the flat tops and don't hate them but that said, I welcome all feedback. My basic question: What's the minimum viable connectivity with the emissions deleted? Do they NEED vacuum? Do they NEED coolant? Do they need the temp control stuff and the anti backfire stuff? Does anyone have or know of good HSM for the 260Z fuel system? The HSM from Xenon is better than nothing, but the scan quality is so low for the fuel system portion it is hard to read. Thanks for all comments and feedback, -j

View Advert 1987 300zx 2+2 1987 Nissan 300zx 2+2 automatic, non turbo with less than 130,000 miles. The head liner & interior are brand new, new starter, new steering rack and power steering pressure line, T-tops are good and I even have an extra set of seals for down the road if these begin to leak. Exterior wise it is a work in progress. Some rust spots and dings have been fixed and it is currently being painted. When finished it will be flat black with gloss black factory wheels. I have a second set of factory wheels that have not been painted. I drove this car every sunny day off I had last year-its a good car, could use a tune up and a little tweaking, but it runs good and drives well. More pictures upon request. All fair offers will be considered. Advertiser firediamond Date 01/27/2020 Price $3,200.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1987 Model 300 zx Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  

Hey guys I’m new to this website but I have read a ton of stuff on here and it’s been a great help so that’s why I’ve joined. Anyways my 78 280z has been running fine for a while, I have all new fuel injectors, fuel pump, and afm. My fuel pump relay was bad so I wired up a switch to the wires where the fuel pump relay normally connects to and it’s worked fine. Recently however it has been idling horribly at around 500 rpm, but when I flip the fuel pump switch to off it jumps right back up to 1000rpm and idles fine until it dies from fuel starvation. It will also occasionally die out in addition to not accelerating sometimes. I’ll be driving and suddenly the power will not exactly cut out but not change if that makes sense. It’ll hold steady but stop reving and accelerating. It also blows darkish white smoke out of the exhaust when I rev it. I know it’s a lot of info but I can’t figure this out if anyone has had a similar problem or a solution please let me know!

Hey guys I’m new to this website but I have read a ton of stuff on here and it’s been a great help so that’s why I’ve joined. Anyways my 78 280z has been running fine for a while, I have all new fuel injectors, fuel pump, and afm. My fuel pump relay was bad so I wired up a switch to the wires where the fuel pump relay normally connects to and it’s worked fine. Recently however it has been idling horribly at around 500 rpm, but when I flip the fuel pump switch to off it jumps right back up to 1000rpm and idles fine until it dies from fuel starvation. It will also occasionally die out in addition to not accelerating sometimes. I’ll be driving and suddenly the power will not exactly cut out but not change if that makes sense. It’ll hold steady but stop reving and accelerating. It also blows darkish white smoke out of the exhaust when I rev it. I know it’s a lot of info but I can’t figure this out if anyone has had a similar problem or a solution please let me know!

does anyone know where can i get the weatherstrip for my zx?

My name's jonathon, i'm 20 years old, i enjoy learning as much as i can about everything, i absolutely love Z cars. i'm a caring southern boy but i live in the northwest US and people think i belong down in Louisiana, or in a corn field. I'm good at welding, shooting, driving, cooking, and debating. i like to talk about politics as well but since this is a Z car forum i'll stick to Z's for the most part. Almost forgot to mention my Z right now is a 1982 280zx NA 2+2.

I have been reading the forum for some time and find it very useful source of information for helping my son with his 78 2+2. However I have not been able to find anything on the 2+2 quarter windows so I thought I would ask. I have checked most of the vendors out there, BD, Vintage, Courtesy, and a host of Ebay sellers and I cannot find the seal that goes on the leading edge (by the door) for the 2+2. It appears to run the height of the frame, with cutouts for the metal tabs that appear to be the hinges to open the window, and extend across the top approximately 2 inches where the weatherstrip similar to the door sash weatherstripping begins. Any help would be much appreciated.

Hey guys, name's Dylan, I got a 78 280z 2+2 for christmas, just thought I'd say hey! also, I've been trying to find out what rear diff is in my car? I'm having issues ha yes I know there are forums galore on this, but I wonder because it says that 280s with manuals had the r200 with like 3.54s or something like that... but nothing is said about the 2+2 and honestly, I think the gearing would be lower because at 75 I'm revving on the top side of 3500. sorry if this is a nuisance, but I am just curious.

Hey all, been lurking here for awhile but it's time I made my entrance. Been a Nissan guy for some time, but I may well be finding that S30 project I've been interested in for awhile! From what I can gather, 2+2s were offered in 74, 75 and 76. Furthermore, they were actually separate chassis from the 2 seaters. Am I correct so far? Some cars with a 2+2 option basically put a cushion and a seatbelt in place where the package tray would be. The Z31 has different quarter windows, but it seems that S30 2+2s aren't any different from the outside. Basically, I'm looking for a CA smog exempt 2+2 S30. Does that limit me to 74 and 75 year cars? Is the difference solely in the interior, or are there chassis differences? I'm not afraid of a little sourcing/fabbing, especially since there are plenty of abandoned project cars here in SoCal one step away from the junkyard :disappoin.