Search the Community

Hello all, I am going to document my build. Basically I have a garage kept series 1 240z. That hasn't driven since 1986, it needed brakes which she couldn't afford so it has sat since. It was resprayed in the 80s as well. Some bad overspray but overall it's a very rust free car. I actually found it in my neighbors garage. My goal is to drive it and enjoy it, but it needs some TLC. First and foremost I got it running, and that is when I made the decision to keep it and I have fallen in love. I will keep it mostly original, minus some brakes upgrades, wheels and BC coilovers. Maybe someday have a built motor for it, but not for now. Everything I take off will be either professionally painted, re - zinc coated or powder coated when it goes back on. I am going to try and stay away from painting it. Everything I do will be reversible and I am keeping all parts I pull off/ upgrade. First thing I did was get it cleaned. Which took a long long time. I started this on Hybriz but I don't think it's the correct build for their site. So I am going to move it over here. I am new to Z's but have been building cars since high school. This is my 2nd major build.

Hi all Really looking forward to starting this project and getting all of your input and advice along the way! Im new to this forum, Ive spent lots of time lurking though! I have been posting on the australian forum but traffic is quite low on there so hoping to get quicker input on here. I did also consider hybridz but I think my resto will be more in line with classiczcars as Im not transplanting a V10 into mine... Names Ryan, I am the long time owner of a 1971 240z here in Perth Western Australia. Vin is HS30-001063 I have owned the car for 10 years. When I bought the car it was in rough condition, tried to get it running to enjoy for a while but the previous owner had neglected it too much. So I decided not to waste money or time and wait for a ground up resto. Then it took me 8 years to find a decent space to start the resto (my dads new shed). I started the tear down in late 2018 but then had my son so it went on the back burner for another 1.5 years. Now I am almost finished the tear down and excited to get some real work done. Unfortunately I have another baby due in November! Damn! Lol I have also started a YouTube channel to document the restoration. At the moment they’re pretty boring dismantle videos but I plan to make them better quality and more exciting in the future. http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHZhre0vm7sL2Kl7hUQFVkg About the car: History unknown, bought it from a very energetic guy who pretty much ran it into the ground, was completely neglected and unmaintained. I knew I wanted to do a full restomod however, so this was not an issue for me. Car has a L20 engine and may be an originally automatic gearbox, hence the L20 swap and that the gear lever barely lines up with the hole in the trans tunnel. L20 will be thrown in the bin. Car is green originally and has had a terrible quality respray. Car had a relatively minor front end collsion, bent sugar scoop/front bumper support and some light repairs to radiator support Basically everything on the car needs replacing/restoration, nothing is reusable in a sense I can just rebolt it on the restored car. Plans for the car: Due to the car not having the original engine I see no point in going back to stock original. may as well create the car I want, so many things will not be stock - Color change, unsure as to color just yet, was leaning toward white but recently I have been liking safari gold - L28 stroked out - Triple Weber set up but thinking of keeping SU's initially to save some $$$ - BC Coilovers, techno toy tuning 3 point strut brace in front and 3 point apex engineering strut brace in rear - Initially all suspension components will be restored and reused to save $$$ (however I havent ruled out installing some pretty techno toy tuning/ apex engineering components at a later date) - Brake upgrade to front and disc upgrade to rear. not going big brakes as I dont like big rims on the 240z - Custom interior - I am an upholsterer by trade and am going to be doing the interior myself and upgrading some it. Think Alcantara and leather - wheels are undecided but something of the period, watanabes/rotas etc - Fender Mirrors for that classic japanese sports car look - Majority of the chrome will be painted in a satin black, I am not a chrome fan unfortunately.... (I know this will upset many of you) - Exterior besides the lack of chrome will be very stock, no flares etc, thinking about maybe doing a BRE style lower lip air dam thingy Here are some photos just before I started stripping it

Hi. Lance here. I finally got around to rewire my 1971 240z. It had a L28 and a faulty wiring and I'm very confused. So, I found a small metal box on the back of my speedo. It have a Yellow and a Yellow/black wire coming out and a red wire that hooks up with the speedo. I teared apart the old wiring and found the yellow one is connected to the IGN Black/White wire using some sketchy electrical tape, and the Y/B one is routed all the way to 4 big 2x5 connector that connects to the engine bay harness. I'm guessing this is a mix matched setup? Voltage regulator is not wired either. Since I'm rewiring the whole thing I just need to know what the heck is this small box. It outputs red about 11.6 volt when battery is connected via Y, and nothing at Y/B. I searched online and found this image of a 260z gauge that appears to have the identical box. It seems those green wires are the Y and Y/B on mine. I did some research online and found out nothing. Have anyone got a idea of what it does? I'm testing the gauges and the speedo and fuel gauge is not working.

Hi all, Does anyone have any insight on the different fonts used on the Series 1 AM radio faceplate for the numbers? I can see two styles: A more rounded sans serif font, as seen here, here and here (on the $310k BaT sale) A stenciled, almost "military" style block font, as seen here and here I'm unsure if it's factory differences, a different model (I've seen references of a Hitachi TM-1081 with different Z and B codes), or simply restoration work. Any information would be appreciated as I'm trying to acquire an original, correct radio for my 10/71 Series 1. Attaching images here also incase the links go dead in the future.

Hi everybody, i'm currently restoring a total wreck of a 240Z and i'm slowing down and it's getting me down. So something I can do now is replace the seat covers and foam which have had rats living on them for over 20years! I looked on the other threads but could find a discussion specific to the quality of the companies now supplying these kind of reproductions. So advice is gladly accepted hahaha. Thanks for your time everyone and hopefully i won't be the only person to gain from the answers! Matt

I am in the process of developing a game right now, and i want to use the S-chassis as the main vehicle, the problem is i need either very precise and detailed measurements to make a 3d model, or i need a CAD model, would anyone know where i could get such things, for free that is, i would spend money on this, but as this is purely a passion project im not ready to spend 100 bucks on a model that is not accurate. If anyone is wondering i plan to fill the game with tons of different parts,(engine swaps and individual pieces, suspension parts, body parts, some interior bits.) When finished i will post the download link on this thread for anyone that wishes to try it out. Game is not currently licensed so things will be named differently to avoid any legal problems.

DISCLAIMER: I did this on a '71 240z - I cannot confirm this works for later models. Preliminary Notes: In searching for new weather-stripping, I came across many forum posts recommending late 90's to early 2000's Kia Sportage weatherstrips. In some of the comment sections there was mention of McMaster-Carr, and one thread dedicated entirely to this stripping. I followed exactly what the guy did in his post, so I am ripping him off, however I thought it'd be worth making a post of my own not only to back up his findings, but also to (hopefully) give this weatherstripping a bit more publicity. Now, I originally had Precision's weatherstripping set, however their stuff made it impossible to close the doors, and was a bitch to get on in the first place. I looked into the Kia Sportage, however the weather stripping was discontinued, making it both very hard to find and exceedingly expensive. McMaster-Carr's weathersrtipping is everything you'd want - it's relatively inexpensive, easy to install (no glue required), and well made. I spent $80 in all (for both doors!) not including shipping, and the weatherstipping arrived 1-2 days after order. I may have bought more than I needed, but even so, it cost around half of anything else. Parts Bought: I bought two different kinds of weather-stripping from McMaster-Carr: 25ft of 1120A331 and 10ft of 1120A581. 331 is a bit smaller than the 581, however 331 is too small for the upper parts of the doors. Originally I only used 331 for the whole door, however, after vigorously spraying the car, water was allowed in at the top of the door - with the 581 this did not happen. This is evidenced by the third picture, where you can see a line of water across the weatherstripping that the water does not go below - if it did, I would have gotten wet. The forth and fifth picture are taken directly below, perpendicularly to the weatherstripping, and you can see quite obviously in the fifth picture that the 331 does not extend far enough to cover the gap of the original weatherstripping (this is where the original silver paint of the car meets the newer red), whereas the majority of the silver is obscured by the 581. Instillation: First, I cut the weatherstripping in half, leaving me with two 12.5 ft. pieces of 331, and 5 ft. pieces of 581. Next, you measure the length from the top corner of the door, down to about where the side window ends. You'll cut a little more than this length from the 581 - one cut will be at a 45 degree angle so the 581's will meet nicely in the corner, and the other end will be where you will connect the 331 to the 581. You connect the 331 to the 581 by cutting about an inch of the vinyl part off of the 331, leaving just the rubber hose, and inserting the 331 hose into the 581. You do the same with the other connection. [NOTE: Before you make the 45 degree cuts on the 581, practice making these cuts on the 331 and connecting them at the corner such that they fit flush together (something like in the picture) as, by the end of this, you will have plenty of excess 331, but you will use all of the 581. Making the 45 degree cuts aren't hard, it's quite intuitive, but it's best to figure it out by trial and error with the 331 before you make any permanent decisions (and mistakes) with the 581.] You make the other 45 degree cut on the longer piece of 581 and run it as far as it goes down the frame, connecting it with 331. Cut the 331 to the necessary lengths such that the tube inserts into the 581, and the vinyls of both kiss each other. It's easiest to start at one connection of the strips, get that one right, and then cut the other half as necessary to acquire the desired result. The stripping holds on to the door by a pinch welt, so all you really have to do is push it on with your fingers, though you could use a rubber mallet if you needed to. Also, don't pull the weatherstipping itself while applying, just press it down naturally - pulling it will allow it to invariably move back to it's natural length, thus not resting in the position you had intended worst case scenario leaving gaps at the seams. Be careful when applying on any curved parts of the door, such as the bottom right and left - you want to be sure they fit snugly on those corners, not letting them come off their grip as you continue farther down the weatherstripping. Conclusory Notes: As you can see in the second to last picture, the design of the Precision stripping is entirely different. The Precision rubber, particularly on the curved bit, is far too thick and rigid, not allowing the door to fully shut. The design of Precision's is a bit more like OEM stripping in that, rather than be a full circle of rubber, it's only about half a circle - not connecting unto itself. Also, the lip where the Precision stripping fastens to the door is far too short to get a good hold, so it requires glue to hold it in place, and then a separate piece of vinyl over top of it to further hold it steady - a piece of vinyl which, if you wish to suffer through installing the Precision stuff, you hopefully kept from the original stripping, and a piece of vinyl that comes pre attached to the McMaster. The door closes all the way with McMaster (evidenced by the door being locked in the final picture as the lock won't engage otherwise), though it does require a bit of force. This, however, could be chalked up to the fact I only just installed the stripping, so it hasn't had time to 'break-in', as it were. The corner piece with the 45 degree cuts may also need some slight pruning. When testing the reliability of this stripping, I absolutely blasted the doors with a hose, subjecting it to forces and quantities of water no storm short of a CAT5 hurricane could posses. I even blasted directly into the seams of the doors, but the stripping still held strong. Water did, however, just barely find it's way into the bottom of the door, but I think this is because I need to replace some gaskets. At any rate, McMaster-Carr survived my brutal tests. Hopefully the weather-stripping stays as resilient as it is now after it breaks in, otherwise I have jumped the gun on this post. I have yet to do the driver side, so if anyone wants me to make a video of that installation to better explain the process, I'm willing to do so - but you'd better ask fast because I plan to do it tonight or tomorrow. If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Im looking for a 3 pieces ducktail and fender flares made with fiberglass with great fitment for my 240z. I made some research and i didn't found much except for the chinese one that i am not warm to buy. I seen many images with the ducktail like I'm looking for and 50% of them have bad fitment, bad alinement, not straight hatchback or simply wrong installation. So my questions are: Can you advise me with your own experiences for the ducktail and fender flares? Where got those products? Let me see your artwork with some pictures for those who made the job. Picture linked for reference.

Hi there, this is my first post on here. Thinking about putting side stripe kit on my 77' 280z. Curious of anyone who has done this, where you purchased them, placement, and any tips. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Ryan

Greeting all. Local Ad site posting for a 1972 Datsun 240z for sale. Build date is 12/72. The car is located in Glendive Montana. This is not my car. Here is the link to the Ad. https://www.bismanonline.com/glendive_mt/stock_c1_1973_datsun_240z

View Advert 240Z Headlight Case with Trim Headlight case with wiring harness and chrome trim piece. Removed from a ‘71 California car. Advertiser Dennis123 Date 10/24/2021 Price $40 Category Parts for Sale  

I need the door locking mechanism for the drivers side door of my 1972 240Z. I'm not exactly sure what the piece is called but its stopped working after years of use and no the door won't close. If anyone has one for sale or knows where to get one. I tried craiglist or ebay but no luck.

View Advert 1972 Datsun 240Z For Sale I am selling my 1972 Datsun 240Z as I have not had the chance to use it in the past several years and my wife is demanding the garage back. I bought the car in 2009 with 67k original miles and it currently has just over 70k original miles on it. I paid $5,900 for the car and am looking to sell it for $3,900, primarily because there will be some work needed to get it back on the road (possibly battery, tires) and I would like to be able to ship it to you before winter. The attached photos show the car in 2007 and today. (The Indianapolis Colts decals have been removed)... The car is in good condition and drives well. Both the previous (original) owner and i did not drive the car in the rain, nor did we put the car on the road between November and April... In addition, you will get a car cover, the original steering wheel (which was replaced), and the original Owner's Manual... I have not done this before so if you are interested and there are specific questions you want answered, please email me at avlevin@gmail.com and I will provide you a response. Andy Levin (Belmont, MA) Advertiser avlevin Date 09/26/2019 Price $3,900.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1972 Model 240Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HLS3082152  

Hello, I have a 1973 Datsun 240z, I had the turn signal assembly refurbished and when reinstalling it the horn will no longer work. I noticed the copper arm on front of the assembly so when I press that on the back of the steering wheel the horn works. If I rest it on the back of the steering wheel the horn blares constantly, if I press the center of the steering wheel or not. I assume it is something simple and I am just a noob but I don't know. Any suggestions?

View Advert GC110 YONMERI SKYLINE 2000GT tail light panel Hello folks, here I have one of 3 rear tail light panel for sale. It's originally for a Skyline Yonmeri GC110 or 240k Skyline, I bought theses panels because I'm going to do a Tailigth swap on my 240z. I'm keeping 2 of them and this one is a leftover from the bunch, all 3 where source from japan 🇯🇵 , Im asking $1000.00 OBO I can ship it, but at the buyer pays for shipping. Thank for reading and have a good day, stay safe. Advertiser L.Flores Date 02/21/2021 Price $1,000.00 Category For Sale  

Hey, I’ve searched all over this forum and can’t seem to find out how to remove the taillight black panel, I have a 72’ 240z and the forums I find include some black rivets, in my case I have some metal rivets and I don’t know how to remove them, could someone help me?

View Advert 240Z hubcaps Set of four hubcaps. Advertiser Tzellar Date 02/04/2021 Price $600.00 Category Parts for Sale