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Greetings, Ive been a Z owner in my own right since 2008 (1992 300ZX N/A) but inherited I inherited a 1971 240Z which needed a lot of work. In 2012 I unfortunately had to sell it to a good friend (ortegadrives on youtube). My father told me when I sold the 240Z that his 1977 280Z was as good as mine. My father has a friend interested in buying my 300ZX, which currently has electrical issues but overall solid car regardless. I purchased a Rebello 3.1 Stroker (actually from Dave Record in 2007 to install in the 240Z, still best purchase of my life). The stock 280Z engine was removed roughly 3 years ago by myself and OrtegaDrives and the engine bay is empty. We have a 5 speed transmission from an 82 280ZX, and a R200 LSD rear end. I have a list of to do items: Remove and clean fuel tank remove rear end/install R200 drop in Rebello w/5 speed transmission new fuel filter/fuel pump New fuel line (possibly) new tires/wheels brake job bushings Other than that, this car hasn't ran since July 1996. Is there anything I may be overlooking that must be checked out? Thanks for any helpful hints or advice! Mike

Hey guys! I am away from the car at the moment and I wonder if anyone knows the throttle body bolt spacing for the N42 intake manifold on the 76 280Z. I am looking at an aftermarket 70mm throttle body with 65mm bolt spacing. I seem to remember the stock throttle body was 60mm...? Can anyone help? @Captain Obvious perhaps? Thanks!

Back in 2014 I purchased a set of fusible links from my local Nissan dealer. They sourced the parts from Coutesy Nissan. Wayne is buzy with an update of his electrical diagram and this was a point of discussion. Im not sure if they changed the colors, but the set I received is: 1x Black p/n: 24161-A0100 (YAZAKIFLWX-1.25) 1x Green p/n: 24161-28500 (YAZAKIFLWX-0.5) 2x Brown p/n: 24161-Y0100 (FTX-0.3) In (brackets) are codes on the link insulation. The brown have a different number compared to the manual,. They are brown instead of the original red. That could explain the different part number. Refering to the parts manual en Waynes color electrical diagram. According to the parts manual Pos 19 is the two (outside) links A and C with a value of 1.25 Pos 18, link B and D have two values, which doesn't make sense, 0.3 and 0.5. That corresponds with one brown 0.3 and the green 0.5. Did nissan get this mixed up? Looks like I should have two blacks for A and C, one green for B and one brown for D. That doesn't match the three reds and a black on the diagram. Could be just color changes over the years. Any thoughts on this? Thanks Eurodat

I am in the process of developing a game right now, and i want to use the S-chassis as the main vehicle, the problem is i need either very precise and detailed measurements to make a 3d model, or i need a CAD model, would anyone know where i could get such things, for free that is, i would spend money on this, but as this is purely a passion project im not ready to spend 100 bucks on a model that is not accurate. If anyone is wondering i plan to fill the game with tons of different parts,(engine swaps and individual pieces, suspension parts, body parts, some interior bits.) When finished i will post the download link on this thread for anyone that wishes to try it out. Game is not currently licensed so things will be named differently to avoid any legal problems.

Picked up a beautiful Hitachi KM-1821ZF now the task of figuring out reverse engineering the ugly CD player. any help or suggestions is more than welcome 🙏

So I realize this isn't exactly Z car related, but within a month or two I will need my 77' Z transported 3/4 across the country from central Ca to Knoxville Tn. Going insane reading up on car transport and would like to see if anyone has had any experience or advice for me. Love my car and would like it to stay in "dece" condition haha Any help would be amazing! Thanks, Ryan Ogawa.

https://www.silverminemotors.com/featured/electric-power-steering-kit-for-240z-260z-280z-datsun-1970-1978-s30 ***** SPECIAL CLASSICZCARS.COM DISCOUNT FOR US MEMBERS! ***** PM me for details on how to get a discount on your order from Silvermine Motors! Hi everyone! I am documenting the installation of the Silvermine Motors EPS system in my 1976 280Z Restomod. My car is currently in the restoration and rebuild phase and I have purchased the system to help improve the steering and response of the 280Z. I will post pictures and document the system as it goes in and gets hooked up to the various components for all to see. My first impressions are very good. The system is compact and looks extremely well made. I mounted the steering column into the firewall using the supplied firewall plate. I had a small alignment issue which located the steering column down and to the right of the mounting tabs on the pedal box assembly. A small amount of pulling on the shaft allowed it to align with the mounting tabs and no further issues were encountered. No negative impact to the firewall or the adapter plate. This may have been due to the variation in positioning between different cars during manufacturing of the firewall etc, or it may have been a bad day for the positioning jig at Silvermine! Not that it really impacted the installation in the end... The other side of the firewall was straight forward. Attach the U-joint adapter to the shaft and to your connecting rod and you're done! The connections were precise and well made with quality looking fittings. The splines were clean and fit perfect. The splined edges of the connecting rod are beveled to allow the connecting bolts to lock the parts together. All that remains at this point is to: - locate the proper place to mount the control box. This will wait till more of the underdash components are in place to allow proper placement. - wire up the controls! Edan's @silverminemotors website has simple instructions for the wiring. I will post more as the restoration progresses and the system gets wired up!

Hi there, this is my first post on here. Thinking about putting side stripe kit on my 77' 280z. Curious of anyone who has done this, where you purchased them, placement, and any tips. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Ryan

Greeting! I am looking to put new wheels on my 280z. It is currently at my fathers house on blocks. I need to get it moved ASAP due to foundation issues, but the brakes are 50% complete and the drivetrain is pulled out. I am looking at getting Enkei92 classics placed on. From what I gather, it is +25mm offset, would it be safe to assume I’d need to get 4x100 spacers? I’ve seen conflicting information on these wheels for fitment. I want to make sure they wheels will fit. thanks!

Hi all, I have recently bought a 280Z 1978 in London UK. It was an ex Cali car and from the license plate hadnt been driven since 2007. Ive spent the last couple months trying to get her to run right, however She went from initially running a bit rich/smokey to now not running at all. Ive replaced the fuel pump as the old one was dying on acceleration (Installed a fuel pressure gauge). Ive replaced all normal things, spark plugs, oil, etc. The loom was very corroded so I have replaced the injector plugs with new ones, making sure to keep the right wire numbers/code from the handbook illustration.The AFM has been siliconed shut as in it has been perhaps tinkered with before. However I have diagnostic tested it and all readings read are that of factory. All readings from the ECU are fine. I have a vacuum leak somewhere, as is sometimes runs when all the hoses are off, if i go to reconnect say the breather hose back on to the rocker cover it just dies. Im stumped on that one.Starting to get really frustrated and have even thought of ripping out the F.I and chucking in some old carbs off a 240 or even still, breaking the bank and going with triple webers! Obviously this is not the desired outcome I just want the bloody thing to go!Any help would be great as like everyone here, I want to enjoy her, especially now that summer is here!Thanks JD

View Advert 1976 Datsun 280Z looking for a 1976 280Z just like the one I used to own shown in this picture. Good running, less than 100K miles, manual tranny, non 2+2, 305 blue, non modded and not rusty. The closer to NYS, the better. The ones on BaT are out of my $range$ for the most part as good ones go north of $30K. I don't mind doing mechanical work but am horrible at and don't like repairing bodywork. If you have one or know of someone who may be thinking about selling theirs, pls contact me. Advertiser Martino Date 02/08/2022 Price Category Cars Wanted Year 1976 Model 280Z  

What cleaning products are advised to maintain a 280z front dash (intact) to keep it clean and/or protect? (car is parked indoors and out of the sunlight) Any links to products that people found useful, please chime in. Products to avoid would also help inform us. Thanks in advance!

View Advert 1977-78 280Z Combo Switch Completely refurbished! The switch was totally disassembled and cleaned. The plastic elements on the stalk have been polished and the rubber boot is in excellent condition. All contacts on the switches have been cleaned and burnished, and treated with dielectric grease. All switch settings have been continuity tested. The wiring and connectors are in perfect condition. $200 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal. PM if interested, thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 04/21/2021 Price $200.00 Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert 260Z, 1975-76 280Z Turn Signal Switch Completely refurbished! The switch was totally disassembled and cleaned. The lever has its original black finish in perfect condition. All contacts on the switches have been cleaned and burnished, and treated with dielectric grease. All switch settings have been continuity tested. The wiring and connectors are in perfect condition. $200 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal. PM if interested, thanks Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 04/21/2021 Price $200.00 Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert 260Z, 1975-76 280Z Combo Switch Completely refurbished! The switch was totally disassembled and cleaned. The plastic elements on the stalk have been polished and the rubber boot is in excellent condition. All contacts on the switches have been cleaned and burnished, and treated with dielectric grease. All switch settings have been continuity tested. The wiring and connectors are in perfect condition. $200 includes standard domestic shipping, international shipping available at actual cost. Payment via PayPal. PM if interested, thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 04/21/2021 Price $200.00 Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert Datsun 260z and 280z Reproduction Door panel (1974 1975 1976) Datsun 260z / 280z door panel. Fits 1974-1976 S30. Now taking orders. 400 + $85 shipping anywhere in CONUS. Sold in pairs only. Will be shipped in at the end of March 2021. Set of 18 recommended clips are an additional $20. Advertiser theguppies Date 03/08/2021 Price $400.00 Category Parts for Sale  

Hello everyone, I just completed building my 1978 Datsun 280z Motor with pretty much all new or rebuilt parts besides the block. I'll run down everything I have and have done. -Stock L28 N42 Block with dished pistons (not rebuilt or anything) -Rebuilt Late E88 Head, Ported, 1.2mm head gasket -Brand new Triple Weber 40 DCOE from TopEndPerformance with the Canon manifold -Brand new 3-2-1 headers from TopEndPerformance which I also wrapped with header wrap -280zx Dizzy "upgrade" with E12-80 box -Carter fuel pump -Also fully rebuilt 5 speed Transmission (Long gear ratios) -Planning on getting the MSD Ignition Soon I got the car running (extremely loud as its open headers atm) didn't have to adjust the Weber's really besides to get the idle down, drove the car and definitely have to ease into the gas, straight full throttle the car stumps for a second, could just be the car wasn't fully warmed up. My questions is if the Jets TopEndPerformance provided with the Weber's are perfect for my setup and what some of you guys think should be changed? I am very new to the Weber game and plan on learning how to tune these things properly in the future but for now I definitely would like some guidance before I get tuned. I will list below the Jets provided with these Webers Main Venturi - 30 Aux Venturi - 4.5 Main Jet - 115 Emulsion Tube - F11 Air Corr Jet - 200 Idle Jet - 45F9 Pump Jet - 40 Pump Exh - 50 Needle Valve - 1.75 I will keep this post updated as I get my webers tuned and change out the jets

Hey all, I did the transistor ignition unit upgrade as described here: Given this though, I have had some problems after doing it. Given that I have a '78 I don't seem to have a resistor below the ignition coil but I think I wired the HEI module in correctly. I think it is correct since it ran for over 6 months, and the last 7 weeks of that was the car being driven daily. On the 7th week though, problems began. The car became slowly harder to start taking longer and longer to crank until it eventually stopped firing all together. I have checked and the car has fuel and air, just no spark. Seeing this, I replaced the HEI. After replacing the HEI the car stumbled as if it would fire and then resumed cranking with no spark. So, have I installed the HEI correctly for a '78 280z? If so, what else could be killing HEI modules when I replace them? I have attached pictures of my module installed: