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Hey guys, im currently in the middle of taking out my rod bearings after finding some non-magnetic metal shavings in my oil (i believe them to be copper). I have pulled 2 rod caps, and the bearings both looked like this. This looks like particulate wear to me, and the shavings I saw i feel were much to big to be from these bearings. i havent pulled all of them yet, but i figured i would just ask what you guys thought. I had no rod knock or anything, but my instinct told me it must be bearings. Was I wrong? I have attached a picture of the bearing, as well as two pictures of the shavings. Thanks in advance!

Good evening everyone, I think I have posted about this before but I am in need of help. A little background, my grandfather left my family around 20 cars or so but thanks to the neglect of my dad they have rotted in the warehouse. I am 18 years old and going off to college next year but have successfully restored a 1994 cobra from the same warehouse. I am based near Houston, Texas and want to make this car a drifting machine. I plan on engine swapping this car but I am unsure on where to start. I will include some pictures, I have started by removing the seats and other items from the interior. I want to remove the dash from the Datsun and have downloaded the manual and watched countless YouTube videos but I cannot remove the steering wheel housing from the car. I accidentally broke a steering wheel remover bolt on trying to remove this steering wheel, please let me know what you all think and if there is anyone based near the Houston area I can contact for further instruction, this would be much appreciated. Thank you for reading and I hope you all have a blessed night. - Reece

Dear all My name is Roland - I am from Switzerland and I am restoring a 240Z (1972) from scratch. The car I bought in the US and like to make it as original as possible. For the restoration I urgently need a back panel for my Datsun. Is anybody out there who can help me? Please see my pictures attached Thank you so much for your help in advance. Cheers Roland --> The pictures show the actual situation which have to be repaired

I currently have the stock 240z differential and I was looking to swap it for a z31 differential. Just wanted to ask you guys some questions. 1) would it be easier to rebuild current differential ninstead of swapping? 2) if I should proceed with swap what else would I need to modify or buy to install it, along side a 5 speed u currently have

Bought a 85 300zx base model with 96k miles. Ran decently for 2 months until the tranny blew. When I drained her I saw multiple teeth, a washer, a screw and shavings galore. I couldnt find any worthwhile transmissions to purchase so I decided to cut out the middleman and attempt to rebuild it myself. I'm only 19 and have been working on cars for less than a year so I can definetly learn it but I need some guidance as to where I should look for learning material and if there is anything in particular I should know before I start dissembling. My tranny is already out and I split it from the bell housing and where the stick shift is. Thanks in advance. Also a bearing got completely destroyed near the idle gear and my clutch also got destroyed

I need help, im trying to restore a 240z. The engine I currently have is the original one but I was gifted a 5 speed transmission, l28 engine and Weber carbs. I just need help with assembly. I've been doing some research and I have a basic idea but here are some questions I have. Are the crankshaft and other pulleys interchangeable with current engine and new l28? Does fuel line material matter? Is there anything else I need to replace in order to complete the swap?

Hello all, Before I go out and buy a timing gun, I was hoping to hear your thoughts on this short video clip. Finally got my 76 280z running and idling after finding a vacuum leak at the booster, but the idle is still really low, and I believe I hear it missing/bogging when accelerating ? idle adjustment screw seems to do nothing in either direction. New plugs, new plug wires, new water temp sensor, new battery, cleaned the injector plug connections, but that's about it. Thank you, Oscar VID_20190802_074213.mp4

Looking for any tips/tricks to replacing the windshield rubber on my 71 240z. I have the FSM but was wondering if anyone who had actually done this repair had any tips or suggestions to help me out before I start

I have a 71 240. Problem I'm having is it seems like my clutch is always engaged. It's almost impossible to get it into either first or second gear unless the car is off or rolling. In first and reverse with the clutch fully depressed the car rolls forward or back as if I'm letting off the clutch. Also theres a good clunk with the initial shift into reverse. I've replaced the master cylinder slave cylinder looks in good shape no leaks. I have the adjustable shank on my slave cylinder so I tried to thread it out thinking it would improve and it did the exact opposite, so I threaded the shank all the way back to the point where it is just barely (not even 1 ft lbs) touching my clutch fork and still I'm having the same issue. System has been bleed completely and I cant take anymore away from the shank on the slave cylinder. Later I will try adjusting the clutch pedal from under the dash see if that gives me any improvement. Any advice or suggestions would help thanks for the read!!!!!!

What is the biggest tire you can put on a 240Z with Panasports 15/7 -0-offset WITHOUT RUBBING? Original OEM were 195/70 Currently I have 195/50/15 ZR and i want to go taller and wider....but dont want to rub.... Thinking of a 215/65x7, would love to go with 225/60/7 Changing rims is not an option. I like these.

anybody have a source of plastic body plugs for an early 71 Z, have to fix antenna therefore remove plastic panels, plugs will break, hence need a source. Any info helpful. thanks

I just bought some new headers for my 1974 260z, but they run into some transmission coolant lines. Does anyone know if I would be able to bypass these lines? Or what I could do to get around this problem? It's an automatic and I have removed the air conditioning. Any information would be greatly appreciated. The two horizontal lines in the second picture are what I am talking about.

I have had my z for a couple of months (1976 280z) had some trouble with the ignition relay at first (accessories did not work) but got them working in the end. Started driving it 2 weeks ago no problems everything worked fine. Then last week I went to start it and it had no spark so after messing with the ignition relay and coil for a bit I found one of the fuseable links was bad (the one that goes to the lights, whippers and washer motor controls.) I replaced it hooked up every thing tured the key, and nothing worked then I heard a relay click and a fizz frying type sound comming from the passanger side didnt smell any thing. I took out the igniton relay and took it apart and all the wiring harness conectors. Checked the relay and filed the contacts and hooked it back up and still nothing. If I turn the lights on the voltage gauge pegs below 12 volts and the lights dont turn on the head lights will on the second click. I tried unhooking all the wires connecting to that control arm and still nothing when i tured the key. I could still hear the clock ticking aswell. I am thinking about taking the dash out I also need to replace the heater core, do some rust work on the fire wall and under the battery, and carpet aswell as some lights and what not behide the dash. Thank you.

Hey everyone, this is my first time posting here on the forums. I've poked around and read on here and a few other sites for a couple of years now and have finally gotten around to making an account. Majority of my problems I've been able to solve either by reading on here or in one of the manuals but I've come across a bit of problem. I own a 1981 280zx 2+2gl N/A 5spd, over this last weekend I started tearing the top end of my engine apart to have head work done. I have the car torn down at a friends house and his dad is really wanting the car gone so I need to hurry up, figure it out, and wrap it up, please help me! I have no prior experience with cars or mechanical work so this is all new to me and I'm still learning a lot, please forgive me for any ignorance or lack of knowledge/understanding, I really appreciate any and all of the help you guys have to offer and look forward to your recommendations and responses! I've gotten everything torn down to just the head now, my problem is I can't remove the head. It is sealed tight to the block. I've removed all 14 of the head studs and the 2 small front cover bolts. There is nothing that could be holding it on, I've given it a once over a million times and a half to make sure I wasn't missing something and throwing the towel in for nothing. The last head stud to come out broke in the block on the driver side in the middle of the engine, about a cm or so was left sticking above the thread. From what I've read this shouldn't stop the head from coming up and out so I'm under the impression there must be something creating a really tight seal on the head gasket. I'm guessing it's either rust and corrosion, fusion from overheating, or the K-Seal copper head gasket leak stop I had sadly used, probably the latter. So far I've tried wailing on all sides of it with a rubber mallet, pulling, pushing, and yanking with all my might stopping just before I give myself a hernia lol, and soaking all the edges and head stud holes in PB Blaster and WD-40 Penetrating Oil. I've read a number of articles so far recommending a variation of ideas and would really appreciate any and all of your guys input, advice, feedback, and help. Please share this with anyone you might know who can help. So far I've seen the following recommendations; use a few wood wedges in between the block and head to slowly and evenly pry the head off (what type of wood? how wide, tall, long, and thick? what degree of angle?), use a screwdriver and slide it in between the block and head to pry it off (could lead to potential head damage), use a 2x4 on the sides and hit it with a big ol' hammer, use a propane torch to heat up the area the broken stud is and also areas suspected of corrosion/fusion (could lead to warping or other problems if i'm not mistaken), use a long pry bar or pole in one of the intake runners on the head (could bend/damage the head because it's aluminum), stuff a bunch of rope into piston 1 and 6 then turn the engine over and use the cylinder head and rope to push the head off (I don't know the first thing about timing so this option makes me really nervous, I don't want to move the pistons without the cam sprocket and timing chain connected because I wouldn't know how to re time it or where to begin), use a high pressure compressor on the spark plug hole (I don't have access to a compressor), or use a engine hoist/lift attached to the head and bounce it tell the head comes off of the bottom end (I don't have a hoist/lift and have jack all for money so renting one isn't an option). A number of those ideas leave me very weary about the damages or problems that could follow and the other ones I feel incapable of acquiring/doing or simply feel it wont cut it, I will probably be trying a number of the above ideas anyways throughout the week and following weekend none the less. If any of you have recommendations, comments, or ideas please feel free to drop a reply, PM me, or shoot me an email, any and everything helps, I would really appreciate it, thanks guys! Also if any of you are in the San Diego area and open to giving a fellow z enthusiast a hand please let me know, I can buy you some beers and food for your time or whatever's clever. Again I can't express enough how much I appreciate any and all of your guys help, thanks in advance for your time and help! - Noah M (Word block dissected by Zed Head)

Update: Just want to thank everyone who has replied. I haven't fixed the problem but its great to hear other peoples opinions and suggestions! So i just want to start off by saying I am in no way an experienced mechanic. I am having a problem with my 1977 Datsun 280z and am willing to hear anyone's thoughts. So I haven't driven this car much. i bought it and it had a leak in the exhaust manifold. Since i had to take it all off i decided to buy headers. While removing the EGR tube, the tube was damaged so I decided to remove the EGR. I remove the EGR use a block off plate from a Z store. I capped off the vacuum that leads to the egr. Now for the problem. When in the driveway the car sound great. I can rev it as high as i want and it sounds perfect. when driving around normally it feels fine as well. The problem comes when driving a bit faster or opening the throttle quickly. When im driving and pass about 4000 rpms the car starts to sputter and i can smell gas. It feels as if its not getting enough air to burn the gas in the cylinder. If im drivng fast and step of the clutch and rev theres no problem. the sputter only happens when im actually putting gas to the wheels. Does anyone have any idea what can cause this? The fact that it acts so well in the driveway or with the clutch in throws me off hard.

Hello! Im looking at buying a 1975 280z. I found one for sale for $5500. Its a 75 280z with a 4 speed manual. 76000 miles on original motor. I got to test drive the car today. All of the gears work well, it shifts really smoothly and drives really well. Headlights and side lights were just replaced, blinkers work just fine. Gauges are all there and work. A/c isnt working but thats normal. Problems: 1. the driver seat is a little rough2. theres no carpet3. The car drives just fine up until about 3500 rpm and then struggles. Owner said he adjusted the timing and it helped a little but the problem is still there. I would like to know if this is potentially a big issue or just something like a fuel pump or timing issue. About how much ballpark would it cost to fix this issue?4. There are two small patches of rust in both front wheel wells. The rust isnt visible unless you peak in behind the wheel. It has been treated with rust proofing spray as a temporary fix. There is no rust on anything structural or on the exterior of the body or on the floor of the car. I would like to buy this car with the intent on fixing it up a bit and then selling it. Is 5500 or a bit less a good price that would leave me room to fix the car and turn a profit? If i can fix the motor problem and do up the interior a bit whats a normal price for this car?Thanks!

2 days ago I noticed that my switch on my right lever (that controls the headlights driving lights etc ) was a little "sloppy" which is the only way I could describe it , I would turn it to the driving lights only at it would not work until I gave it a little extra push and it would work just fine . Now my driving lights won't come on , my dash is pitch black and even if I turn them all the way until my headlights come on , still no driving lights or dash lighting . Any ideas ok where should I start ?

Okay so I've been restoring a 75 280z and it's so close to being finished but for some reason my fuel pump won't kick in when the engine is turning over unless I direct connect a wire from the fuel pump to another wire source that is getting current. Is it okay to do this? If so, where can I hook it up so that it's safely getting enough power, isn't stealing too much power from something else and won't burn up any wires or create a huge electrical problem. Oh, also, where would I hook the negative side to?

My problem happened after i replaced my alternator belt, my 77 (technically a 76 because of its production date) used to run at around 180-185F , now the norm is 210-230 or really close to over heating after a 7-11 minute drive and considering the weather in california is fairly cool/cold this problem is really weird to me. I already replaced the thermostat and its gasket (no luck) there are no leaks , other things that ive done to my car during this period where , an hks smf filter (mostly for looks) and replaced some worn rubber hoses that run across my intake manifold (which fixed my bad idle) this car is my daily driver to college please any help is welcome.

Im looking for cast flattops to rebuild my 83 f54/p79, having a hard time finding ones that arent forged but I stumbled upon these. It says theyre for 75-79s but as far as I can tell those were the same as the pistons in the f54 block. Can anyone see any reason these wouldn't work or if I shouldn't buy from this source? https://zcardepot.com/engine/engine-rebuild/piston-set-of-6-pistons-l28-020.html?search=piston

My l28 n42/n47 will be needing a bit of head work soon, specifically a valve job. Wondering if there is anyone located in Washington that has any recommendations for a shop to go to have this done in the near future, probably around January/February. Western Washington would be preferable, I'm located near Olympia.

This little switch is located on the passenger side of my 73 on the far right, the wiring looks new, but I dont have a battery yet nor have I tried to hook one up to the ancient leads to see what it does..but it doesn't quite look stock. Does anyone have any idea what this is for? Additionally, that choke looking pull, there are about 3 of them on the driver side if I remember correctly. Have no idea what those are for either. I've never heard anyone mention these bits on the inside of Z cars nor have I seen them, or I wouldn't be asking.

For some background I have a '71 Datsun 240z and have made a few modifications to it so far - replace solenoid, new plug wires, new spark plugs, cleaned the carbs. it worked fine until the engine sat for awhile. I put on a new valve cover and a new exhaust. since then I can't get the thing to start. Now every time I try to start it it'll sound for about 2 seconds like its going off of starter fluid then cut out, totally unresponsive to the throttle. it'll only do this for the first go around and after that i can crank for days and nothing happens. This makes me think its a fuel/spark issue because its getting flooded so it only happens the first time, however, since this problem started happening i've tried the following. - checked the fuel to the carbs. i took off the hose and cranked the engine and got a lot of fuel coming out - i made sure that the plug wires corresponded correctly with TDC and that the firing order was all correct - got a new battery - got new spark plugs - cranked it with a $^!# ton of start fluid. I havent adjusted the timing but i'm guessing it should be fine if it was fine before and I never took out the distributor. any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Disclaimer: I am by NO means a Weber Pro and this post is still a WIP (Work in Progress) Hello, my name is Mike and I've recently tackled my first set of Triple DCOE Webers project. Now, I spent hours reading all the manuals and following a few guides online, but none of them were particularly methodical in their approach and often just led to more confusion. I'm putting this guide together to, hopefully, help others who might not have much experience with these carbs or for those who (like me) prefer a Step-by-Step approach to figuring things out. This guide has been made possible with the help of those more knowledgeable than me. Thanks guys - you know who you are! If there's anything I need to clarify or add, let me know. Table of Contents I. Documentation II. Useful Links/Parts/Accessories III. Prologue IV. Choke/Venturi V. Main Jets, Emulsion Tubes, Air Correctors & Idle Jets VI. TBD I. Documentation DCOE Weber Carburetor Top-View Layout Weber Factory Tuning Manual - Download Link Power Tuning Webers (Des Hammil/Veloce Publishing) - Download Link Selection and Tuning of DCOE Weber Carbs (David Andrews ) - Download Link Weber DCOE Tuning Manual (Philippe Boursin) - Download Link II. Useful Links/Parts/Accessories http://www.redlineweber.com/ http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ http://www.carburetion.com/index.htm III. Prologue - The First Date First and foremost, it is essential that you know what you're working with. Setup a date with your newly acquired friends and spend a romantic evening just getting to know each other - perhaps light some candles and pour some wine while you're at it. In order to tune them properly, you need to know what sort of equipment your carbs are packing. IV. Choke/Venturi - Step One - Removal Let's start off by determining the size of the chokes/venturis. (If carbs don't have filters on them, skip to Step 1D) If the carbs are already out, the easiest way is to shine some light down the carb and see if you spot the engraved number. If you can't see the number or if you want to replace the chokes, then follow these steps. 1A - Unscrew the airbox/filter (If applicable) 1B - Underneath there are four (8mm) bolts holding in the housing. I already took off one of the studs. 1C - Remove Gasket (If applicable) 1D - Unscrew the this little fella (11mm) sitting on the bottom corner of each side of the carburetor. This holds the auxiliary venturi in place. 1E - Once the screw is removed, the aux. venturi should slip right out. 1F - Make a note of the little indent where the screw holds the aux. venturi in place. You're gonna have to put it back the same way for it to seat properly 1G - You should be able to see the chokes now, but we're gonna replace the 28's with a different size. 1H - Unscrew this fella (I used a flathead) to allow the choke to slide out. 1I - If you're having some trouble getting the choke/venturi out, then open the butterflies and push it out from the opposite side. It'll otherwise slide out IV. Choke/Venturi - Step Two - Assembly Alright, so now we have removed the choke - it's time to replace them! Here's the old 28 next to the new 34 that is going in. 2A - See these notches? You want to make sure that they line up properly in the carb. Looking at the carb from the front, the left choke lines up at 12 & 3, while the right choke lines up at 12 & 9 (Left choke lined up at 12 & 3) 2B - Re-insert the screw and make sure it sits firm. I had some trouble getting the right angle on some of them, so just make sure it's lined up properly. 2C - The aux. venturi should slide right in. Remember that little indent from before? Make sure it lines up properly with where the screw goes. 2D - Screw the little guy (11mm) back in and double check to make sure the aux. venturi is seated properly 2E - Do one final inspection to make sure everything is sitting right and then continue to put your gasket and filter back on. Personally, I went with these stacks. They slide right in and uses little clips that slide into the studs to hold them in. V. Main Jets, Air Correctors, Emulsion Tubes & Idle Jets WIP - Work in Progress

Hello, I have a 260z with the original engine. When i bought the car it wasn't running and so after changing the fuel pump, ignition system, and carbs (from flat tops to su carbs) I FINALLY got it to start up!! Only problem is that it is running at a very high pace, and releasing a lot of smoke through the exhaust now I'm no car expert as this is my first car project so i have an idea on what may be wrong but am not sure, so I wanted to see if any one could identify the symptoms on the video below (in link) and provide a solution to help me solve the issue before I dive in and try to figure it out myself. That way I can move on quickly and go on to the other problems the car has so that I may get her on the road. I want to go ahead and thank you for taking the time to read this, hopefully someone knows just how to fix my issue and any suggestions will be greatly appreciated! (The reason for the smoke coming out of the engine is that the air pump is being eliminated and the hoses have not yet been plugged up...)