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Well after forty years of ownership I'm finally starting a second go around at restoring my 1970 240Z. I purchased the car well used in 1978 with 90,000 plus miles from the local Datsun Dealership in Chilliwack, BC Canada. Here is a picture from July '78: Here is what it looks like today. Looks reasonable but the paint is showing its age and there are some other issues lurking that need to be fixed properly. Full disclosure will come later. Restoration number one was done in 1982 and I only did what I could afford at the time. I actually think this first attempt of was really "Canadian maintenance", my poor Zed was at a do or die point. Here are a few pics from 1982: I went to the parts department at my local Datsun dealership and made, what I learned later was, the largest order of body parts that anyone had ever placed with them to that point. By the time my body man and painter were finished and with the cost of the car, I could have bought a brand new 1978 280Z instead, but hey I was 18 at the time and I have never regretted doing it. In future installments I will list my restoration goals add a time line of my 40 years of ownership, after I sort and scan more of my old pictures. Anyway I plan to document my adventure with my re-restoration here, and I'm sure I will be looking for advice, also comments and tips will be very welcomed. Cheers, Mike

Hi all, Does anyone have any insight on the different fonts used on the Series 1 AM radio faceplate for the numbers? I can see two styles: A more rounded sans serif font, as seen here, here and here (on the $310k BaT sale) A stenciled, almost "military" style block font, as seen here and here I'm unsure if it's factory differences, a different model (I've seen references of a Hitachi TM-1081 with different Z and B codes), or simply restoration work. Any information would be appreciated as I'm trying to acquire an original, correct radio for my 10/71 Series 1. Attaching images here also incase the links go dead in the future.

I noticed today that MSA has begin to offer refurbished differential hanger brackets on an exchange basis. In their write-up on these new parts, they discuss applications in relation to solving the differential 'clunk' problem and emphasize that Series 1 owners will need to install the Series 2 differential hanger parts and moustache bar in order to be able to use the Series 2 front insulator (I believe that this is because the arrestor strap won't fit otherwise). This made me curious, so I started to look around some of the commonly-used parts vendors' websites to see if anyone was offering the Nissan Series 1 part (PN 55415-E4102, for reference). A quick look turned up 'not available' at Rock Auto and Chesapeake Nissan. Z-Car Source of Arizona offers only used units, and only on special order. Courtesy Nissan lists the part and a price, but that doesn't mean they have it or can get it (I haven't asked them yet). MSA lists it, but warns that it "...has been discontinued by Nissan or another manufacturer, and we are currently in the process of locating an alternate supplier or having the item reproduced" So: Is a new OE Series 1 diff mount/insulator definitely NLA ? If so, are there any known aftermarket options?

I'm in the process of a major tune-up on my early '71. What is the consensus about the keeping or removing the pollution control system, in particular those items connected to the carburetor/fuel system. My primary goal is to maintain as much collection value as possible, since it #8225 made in 8/70. I don't live in a tough registration state, but could this modification keep the car from being registered in any states? (Not concerned about Alaska and Hawaii.) If the suggestion is to remove components, can you point me to some good instructions or videos? -Dann

I am looking for a stock survivor/restoration series 1 240Z with matching #'s, preferably grade 4 or 5, to add to my collection of Datsuns/Nissans that ranges from a 67.5 2000 Roadster to modern NISMOs. It's a missing piece in the garage. Documentation is a must and I am willing to pay for quality. I am not looking for a project car, rather one that presents as it should for grade and drives just as well. I live in Florida, but have a network of enthusiast friends/collectors across the country who can inspect/test drive on my behalf and can travel for the right car. I know it is difficult to part with these cars, but I can ensure it would be going to a good home where it will be loved by myself, sons, and generations to come. Respectfully...

So there was a discussion recently here. About non-defrost glass as being fitted to early 240z's delivered in the US (maybe 1969 dated cars?) but interestingly Nissan gave all HS30's delivered to Australia no defrost options (or it was an option but I've not seen any 240z's in Australia with this glass) up until the 1974 260z which didn't get the sexy vertical defrost glass, instead they got the horizontal lined glass. Anyway this was tough to photograph in the dark of a garage but this is the glass out of HS30 00150 a 1970 delivered HS30. As you can see it has the stamp M-214. The early US cars with clear glass (and no defrost) have the code M-214 and later cars with tinted glass (and defrost) have the code M-224 according to MikeB in the other thread. Personally I've always liked the vertical defrost glass look. The orange on the right is from an old sticker / emblem.

Hello, I have a 1971 Series 1 240Z which has a few issues which needed to be rectified to pass inspection here. One of which was the reverse lights not working, which I thought would be a simple fix. -I haven't checked the reverse switch itself yet, because there is a continuity issue with the red/black wiring ( I jumped the red to red black cables at the switch but nothing) - I have power at the red wire to the switch. Here is where things are confusing me. I have continuity from the red/black wire at the switch to the red/black wire at the three prong connector (shared with YG/BY) from the engine compartment harness to the dash harness. However, there are two red/black wires going to the body harness from the dash harness, neither of which have continuity through the dash harness. This is the first issue. Second issue is the body harness itself has been subject to some serious modification. The body harness has THREE red/black wires (one of which looks like rear defroster), but the ones of the pronged connectors do not have continuity with the wiring at the reverse lights. The only wire that has continuity with the wiring at the lights is a red/black wire that has been connected to the spade going to the pass side door switch (??). Also, the wiring going up the frame after the seat has been chopped, and been butt spliced to different colored wiring. However, at the tail end of the car, most of the wiring appears factory. I know I could simply bypass the dash harness altogether. My questions: - What is the purpose of the black wire at the body harness connector? What else is going to ground from the dash harness? It appears the body harness has its own ground point. - Is the reverse light wire going through a pronged connector on the dash harness to the body harness on Series 1 240z or is it a separate butt style connection? - What do I do with the door switch? I never checked if it actually works. I wouldnt be too bothered if it doesnt however. Thanks for your help!

I will be trailering my car up to Austin for the Z convention. I will be bringing several parts with me for those that are interested. Series 1 hatch in good condition with horizontal glass, vents, interior panel cover ( black) and hinges Left Series early 70 door with window, locks/handle mechanisms, exterior door handle, hinges and stainless trim Right Series early 70 door with window, locks/handle mechanisms, exterior door handle, hinges and stainless trim e31 take off head in good condition with intake manifold, cam, lifters, valves, springs, ( no valve cover) I am going to check my parts stash to see if there is anything else for me to bring. I will have the slow gray CarbonSignal LS swapped 240z

Hello All, First off i am new to my Z, and new to the forum. Im sure my problem has been discussed previously but i am having some very odd symptoms! I bought my car maybe 2 months ago. After sitting 30 years in dry storage the whole brake system was shot. I purchased all new pads and shoes and retainers and rebuilt the calipers and the wheel cylinders, along with new flex lines. I also bought the correct master cylinder for my car, it being built in 12/1970. My problem is that even after bleeding the entire system, i cannot get pressure to the front calipers. The bleeder on the master to the rear has pressure, but the front bleeder, once opened, does not. The pedal pumps up and seems rock hard. Please I have no idea why i am not getting pressure to the front system. Oh and the reaction disk is glued to the back of the pushrod so that did not fall out of place.

Hello All, I love z cars but I acquired this 1970 240z manufactured in 2/70 lowest production month for the z. it has been repainted once original color paint code is 907 british racing green. it's got the rear window defogger that goes vertical instead of horizontal the correct emblems. there is rust it has been sitting in back field for 15 years. prod. # is like 1611 or close to it. has the speedo that starts at twenty etc. my question is this is it desireable enough because of manufacturing date etc to sell to someione that want to restore it or and i hate to say this am i better parting it out. i mean the chrome is perfect thepassenger seat is near perfect drivers is okay rear interior the padded parts over speakersa etc is perfect needs carpet. has panasport wheels 79k original mileage. i have two sets of carburetors head and ill be damned the thing started after new fuel unbelievable. so is it wooooooooorth more in parts or should i sell? i have to much to do. title is clear no accidents please advise. thank you,

Hey all, Here is my 1971 240z it is a series 1 with a build date of November 1970 has the vented rear hatch, emblems, ash tray, etc that go along with a series one. This was the first Z car that I purchased and I learnt a lot from the minor things I did on it. Unfortunately it did not turn out to be the dream car I hoped it would be, sadly all too often the story for many a new Z owner. After suspicions from looking over and working on the car I had it checked out by a local Z shop some of you might know Z Car Garage, San Jose, CA. It turns out there is a twist in the chassis from what appears to be a bad front-end repair. After looking closer it seems the car was hit in the front end at some point as some of the photos show. What to do? I would hate to see this car crushed and the parts go to waste, but do not have the time or space available to part out the vehicle. There are two options I can see selling it to a local Z / Datsun shop if they will take it or selling it outright to someone. With the right skills, time and money someone could restore this car but I have very little of all three to spare on this as a project. Otherwise it would make a very nice parts car to help complete a series 1 restoration or resto-mod. This brings me to the questions of what is it worth? I know I can get $1000 if I scrap it but really do not want to see that happen to this beautiful car. Before answering this question here are a few details on the car: Most body panels appear good but there is surface rust and/or bubbling in the common areas (dog legs, roof window seal, battery tray area). Have a look at the pictures; Lots of series 1 parts available on the car; 1972 L24 motor with round top SU carbs, pertronix ignition and fireblaster coil; Car runs but needs shocks I have driven this car to LA and back no worries, prior to the shocks getting progressively worse; Lots of other stuff look at pictures and ask away. You can also check the photos in My Garage for more photos. I have removed the MSA style strut braces as I was going to sell them separately. I also have a bunch of other parts I was going to sell off. I had originally purchased them for a resto-mod on the car but after hearing the bad chassis news I lost a lot of enthusiasm for working on the car especially as I have another 240z to work on. So looking for opinions, comments and advice