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Teflon suit on - Check Here goes... Ok, first post here and relatively new Z owner (1.5yrs, 260z 2+2 Auto). The car has weber 32/36 conversion with all the smog stuff removed. It runs decently well, but is rich at idle and takes a bit of cranking (6+) to start if it sits longer than 2 days. It doesn't have a lot of power but I don't really know the baseline. The engine runs smooth, and it definitely pulls ok, but I think it's probably in the 75% range of what it could do if tuned properly. It has a resonator and catalytic converter and original exhaust manifold. I recently switched to non-ethanol and it seems to like that a little bit more, slightly easier cold-starting, a little less missing and oddness. The engine/exhaust note isn't anything I'd brag about and it's more along the lines of a chill cruiser (partly probably reinforced by the auto transmission). Finally, the webers just don't look right in there and I just really love the original look of the SU's with the orange airbox. Sooo... I picked up a few Flat Tops (a NOS front, and a used pair with an airbox) and a refurb kit, thinking I would keep it correct for the year, but without re-configuring all the emissions stuff. I'm looking for some advice here from folks who have experience with the flat tops and don't hate them but that said, I welcome all feedback. My basic question: What's the minimum viable connectivity with the emissions deleted? Do they NEED vacuum? Do they NEED coolant? Do they need the temp control stuff and the anti backfire stuff? Does anyone have or know of good HSM for the 260Z fuel system? The HSM from Xenon is better than nothing, but the scan quality is so low for the fuel system portion it is hard to read. Thanks for all comments and feedback, -j

Up for sale is my 1978 280z Automatic. This car has had the body taken down to a shell, all rusted metal removed and replaced with good metal, body checked to be true and straight. I am currently using it a few days a week 60 miles round trip to work and back.List of the new/upgraded:All rubber parts and weatherstripping replaced, urethane bushings throughout, new struts and springs, new tires, new headlights, upgraded front and rear body kit, 240z hood, hood access panels louvered, new frame rails, new interior carpet, new headliner, gauges refaced, Factory AC compressor upgraded, all bulbs but headlights are led, new stereo head unit, new speakers, front and rear cameras integrated into the car, rear window louver powder coated, front brake caliper upgrade completed, master cylinder upgrade completed, new oil pump, new water pump, new aluminum radiator, fuel tank internally cleaned, new fuel pump, universal joints replaced, shock tower support struts installed, repainted 2015, and fresh valve adjustment completed.Left to finish to be completed:Exhaust could be replaced but works fine, seats could be recovered due to cracks in vinyl, AC needs to be charged (just finished replacing most of it and not filled yet), and final wax and polish of the paint/wheels. Passenger front tire has a flat spot from sitting, seems to be rounding back out but may need to be replaced. The car is not perfect (its an old car) but in very good condition and ready to be used. Comes with spare engine and 4sp trans if wanted.This car is ready to be a daily driver and has been my project over the last 3 years. Hate to sell it but I don't drive it enough and don't like seeing it sit. Have Florida title in hand and asking $8500 oboThanksRyan

1972 240Z, automatic, with aftermarket AC. ISSUE: Between approx. 1100 to 1800 rpm when the motor is at operating temp., the engine will; cough, sputter, miss through the back/rear carb and it makes it hard to leave stop signs. As soon as it hits 1900 to 2k rpm it takes off like crazy and runs perfect. it is a fast car for what it is. This is my fourth Z but my first three were brand spanking new with no troubles except for my 74 260 that hated cold weather in South Dakota. I also had a 71 240Z, automatic and a 76 280Z 5 speed, all back in the 70s new. I got this Datsun 240Z in November 2016. I have had this trouble all along only so much worse I when I got it, I could not drive it anywhere for fear of dying. So here is what I have done; PARTS: new plugs, new rotor, new, distributor cap, new dual points, new condensers, new plug wires, new ignition coil, new mechanical fuel pump, new air cleaner filter. Put oil in the top of the dash pots. I took it to a mechanic who said he used to work on them years ago and raced datsuns. He said he pulled the distributor checked it all out, set carbs and timing and and put in new plugs, and reset the points gap, and said one of my new condensers was bad so he replaced it, and did whatever for 300 bucks, it ran great for one day then started doing it again the next day. Took it back and paid him 80 bucks more for whatever he did, got home 30+ miles away and it started doing it all over again. He said come back and I haven't because; it used to cough through the carb so hard it would fall flat on its face and sputter in the back carb, and keep doing it so that it was almost dying until I hit the 2k rpm. Then I did all the work I said and it seems the added oil in the carbs brought it to a milder miss/ backfire or cough thru the rear carb. It runs so much better now at the low rpm but it is still there. When it is a cold engine start, I choke it and it starts up, sputtering a lot and i right away ease up on the choke. it coughs thru the rear carb giving it gas in park at the low end until it warms up, After engine warms up, it only misses or coughs through the rear carb when the car is in drive under load or reverse. Park or N it runs great at low rpm on up to any rpm. It sounds super and runs super. CHRIS, Florida 19,500 OBO tired of dealing with it and don't have an easy time getting in and out of it. I am old and too heavy, But I love these Z cars.

The car was purchased new by my Mom from a Connecticut Nissan dealer in 1982. It has been in our family ever since! Garaged since day one. Around 105k miles on it. Silver, t-tops, grey cloth interior, automatic. Few small rust spots up around the front wheel wells. Would love to keep it but it's just not being used enough anymore and we really want the garage spot available for our other daily-use car. Car is located in Rhode Island. Looking to sell as soon as possible. Don't have pictures currently (car is in Rhode Island and I'm living in NYC)...but can get pictures to any interested buyers. Don't really have a price in mind--really just want to make sure that it goes to someone who appreciates the car and will keep it on the road. Alternative for us is to donate it (little headache in doing this)...but really want to give this a try first.