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Showing results for tags 'body'.
Found 16 results
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Hello, I am going to get my 240z projekt painted in the near future but I just cant distinguish and choose between the differnt shades of blue. I know that I want a dark blue and I also have some examples of cars that I think look good, it would be great if you could help me identify some of these colors. Greetings from germany Elias I think i like this first color the most:
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Anyone have any idea what this body kit is? I've asked around some known suppliers, and none so far have any idea what this is? https://www.pinterest.com/pin/257971884883106901/ Got a 280z, and trying to find a body kit I like... ? Thanks in advance...
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I am roughly 6 months (estimated) away from putting the car in the shop for body work. In the meantime, I am stripping the car and enjoying it after getting it running right and in a reliable state. The car had a vinyl top which I removed hastily a year ago causing a majority of the adhesive to bake onto roof. I recently removed the vinyl from the hatch lid which left me in awe at the original paint. Neither here nor there... Real reason for the post - Is it worth putting some sort of rust inhibitor on the roof and affected areas between now and until it goes into the body shop? How does that affect body work in the future? For the roof, is it worth sourcing a roof for replacement instead of metalwork? Note around the front windshield pillars on either side, there are holes.
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Hoping someone can tell me how to remove this rubber grommet that holds the windshield wiper hardness cable does it pop off in half or do I have to cut off and buy a new one?
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I'm looking for a metal front driver side fender, restored/refurbished or reproduction. Anyone have a good source?
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i purchased my early 260z with a missing mirror. On closer inspection I found that my mirror was ripped out of the door, 4 times.. I was presented with essentially a 5" long series of holes in my door so prior to painting I welded them shut with an additional piece of sheet metal inside the door as a reinforcement. I used a light coat of body filler to smooth things out over the new metal and the door looks normal after paint. I bought an OEM mirror from courtesy Nissan and now i need to drill holes into my repaired door. I would like to know the exact mounting location to keep things stock. My car is an early 260z and I am unsure if that makes any difference. Thank you in advance
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Hey everyone. I live in Colorado, and I use my Z as a daily driver. Its a 1983 280zx Turbo, T-tops ect. Recently this winter slid on the ice into a curb at probably about 20 MPH. Moral of the story is driving Z's in the snow sucks. I bent the frame a bit. I have a wrinkle in the frame behind the wheel on the right front side. I can add pictures alter, but I am at work. At first I thought it was the steering rack, but it is just the frame (could be better could be worse) My Z is pretty rust free, but the frame is still a bit of a worry. Would it be recommended to just see what can be done with a standard frame machine? Or should I look into offsetting with adjustments to the A-arm? Recommendations welcome. I ultimately want to strip the undercoating that is currently there and re-coat it with POR-15 or something similar. If possible I'd also like to reinforce the frame rails, just for performance purposes, I do not intend to swap or do much other mods, I am keeping it stock as mechanically she is a dream with only 145k original miles. I also need to replace the fender (Driver's front Quarter) Which I can get cheap, but I was curious as to the process of replacing. (Frame is more important at the moment) Any recommendations are appreciated! Thanks!
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Ok, so we are getting pretty close to spraying primer on my 1970 restoration project. I have all of the new trip pieces and NOS logos, etc... The whole body is going to look great, except the gas door latch- the chrome is pitted and rotten looking. Do inhale any alternatives other than sandblasting it and getting it re chromed? Any aftermarket replacements? Any suggestions would be ost appreciated.
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So after buying my Michigan 280z and tearing into it only to discover more rust than metal, I have decided to find a new body in a state which doesn't eat cars . So! I am in the market for a 75-78 280z body with minimal/no rust, though beyond that a project body would be great. I am looking to spend 1500 or so, and the most important thing to me is that it has as little rust as possible; if it needs interior work or electrical or other parts that's fine, just NO RUST. A friend will be travelling to Florida sometime soon, so if there is anything between Michigan and Florida that would be great. Also, if anyone knows of any good auction sites or other websites where I can find nice-ish bodies with in my price range, that would really help as well!! Thanks everyone --Rachel
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at the advice of zed2 (whose restoration thread yall may have seen here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34490), i have enlisted tony's body shop here in dallas to restore my 76 280z. i bought the car in january of 2009, and after burning up the engine and having to completely rebuild it, i'm now moving on to the next step. i've already done the engine bay, so tony's going to do rust repair on the rest of the body, and then paint it BRG at my request. here are the first photos of the disassembly. sorry for the poor lighting in the photos, and as always, look at my flickr account for more!
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my body shop is stripping the rear of the car, and they've found what they say is irreparable rust over the wheel arch. i've seen this area rust in other cars, and i'd like to know if the rust in this area is usually just confined to the skin, or will it be likely to have bled onto the wheel housing? would it be better to just buy a rear wheel arch replacement panel, a la black dragon, or try to find a donor car? does anyone else sell a better replacement panel than BDA? i've heard tepid reviews of their body panels. which years will match my 76 when it comes to the quarter panels? i'll be uploading a few photos later tonight.
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Currently living in the Raleigh, NC area and have a 73 240 that needs a total ground-up, which I neither have the time or space to perform. Anyone have a good experience with shops in the area, especially body? Thanks Alex
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i keep my 280 out in the country in my dad's garage, and most everything is cheaper out here, but this seems a little cheaper than normal. i went to a body shop called TCB Riveria in Quinlan, TX. the guy gave my car a cursory look and told me $2500 for both the body work and the paint, or $2000 if i do the disassembly myself. the engine bay has already been done. he says that he doesn't use bondo, he uses some fiber glass product. he said the paint job would involve painting all the door jambs and both sides of the hood, hatch and doors. he showed me a few albums of cars he's done, trophies he's won. he seemed pretty dependable. i'll be sure to look at his work up close before i make a decision, but does this sound too good to be true to yall?
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Looking for a rust free unibody....1979-83 2 seater, t top in ny...... anyone.... I have an 83 280 zx turbo 2 seater 5 spd that has rotted itself to bits. It is in the process of restoration and I need a rust free car to use to replace the rusted undercarriage/frame, I don't care if it runs or is complete. The important stuff is rust free, 2 seater, t tops 1979 to 1983 undercarriage/frame... Help.....
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My dad thinks i should cut a piece of steel and rivet it over the affected area after putting a rust converter on the rust. That sounds pretty easy to me, but i wanted to make sure that's my best option before i start drilling holes. See the attached picture. The passengers side is not quite as bad; the rust doesn't go past where the headlight sits.
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Hey guys this is my second Z and i recently bought her and when i did the front of her looked off..i couldnt figure out why for hte life of me. Then i realized (while admiring another Z) that she is missing the upper grill. The bigger of the 2, does anyone know what i can buy one??
