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Made a mistake in my first post. Original and corrections shown below. Sorry for the messy post. Basically what I've found is that both of the two popular alternator conversion instructions will allow the alternator to charge, internally regulated, but they both leave loose ends for other components in the 1976 280Z. I am new to this site but thought I would share something I found out about upgrading to a 1979 ZX alternator on a 1976 280Z. Using the atlanticz.com instructions - http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html - the brake warning lamp check relay will be "hot" all the time, even with the key off, since it is spliced off of the S line to the alternator plug. I found that the slight amount of current it draws would drain my battery after a few days. According to the FSM, California cars also have an EGR cut solenoid that would also be always energized. I assume that the old mechanical voltage regulator ran the S line and/or brake check relay through the ignition circuit (I did not dig in to confirm) so this was not a problem. You can tell if you have a similar problem after the conversion, if you hear relays clicking when you reconnect the battery, with the key off. Edit 11:41 am 11/12/09 - The following is wrong, it will not let the relay work correctly. The relay needs to be energized when the motor is running/cranking, but dead when the ignition circuit is on. {{{I fixed the problem by wiring the system like zcarcreations recommends - http://www.zcarcreations.com/howto/voltreg.htm - to get the relay back on to an ignition circuit}}} I ended up splicing the brake warning lamp check relay yellow wire, which energizes the relay solenoid, to the fuel pump circuit, which has a plug in the vicinity under the passenger seat. The fuel pump only runs when the motor is running. Edit 11:41 am 11/12/09 - This part still seems right {{{, but cut the S line splice off of the circuit and wired it direct to battery + terminal.} This also lets the alternator see mostly battery charge and not the voltage after the loads on the ignition circuit. I get a smooth 14.5 volts with the S line wired direct, but was getting a jumpy over 15 for the short time I had it wired through the the ignition circuit (measured with a good voltmeter at the battery).}}} That's all I have. I enjoy the discussions and hope this helps someone out if they decide to go with an internally regulated alternator. p.s. I also found that the dash voltmeter is pretty easy to adjust using the slotted adjuster on the back of the gauge.

I'm new here. Have found this site useful in the past and hope that I can draw on this pool of knowledge. After registering I found there is much more to enjoy. My 77 280 needed a few things taken care of before I felt comfortable putting it on the market. I procrastinated the last thing..the brake warning light never went off. I checked the ebrake switch, leaks, pressure differential switch and bled the brakes. The last thing could fathum trying was the relay under the passenger seat. I unplugged it and the light went off, only now it won't come on and my oil pressure and fuel guage stopped working? It blows the fuel guage fuse! Is the relay under the seat connected to the guages or is this a strange coincidence? Additionally, since I unplugged the relay the white charge light stays on in the voltmeter..? The ebrake light will not come and the fuse blows with the relay connected or not. The electrical worked fine except for the brake warning light before I disconnected that relay. Any help is appreciated. Thanks. :disappoin