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Not sure where to put this so here it is: https://www.haltech.com/product-overview-elite-vms-and-vms-t/ Now you can get a Haltech system for a carb'd engine setup without paying for all the Fuel Injection features you don't need.

Howdy Yall, I've been driving my Z for a couple weeks, (its too much fun, dont want to drive other cars now). Ran into an issue that I cant seem to get myself out of. I'm getting what appears to be a lean condition on the carbs, the motor will produce a backfire/bog down when running between 2.7-3.5k RPM, and if i get to 40 mph it really drives rough. I parked the car for 2 weeks and have been trying to get a baseline tune on the carbs, based on information that I'm finding on the web, but am a little confused from the information that I'm reading online regarding the float settings: Idle ~6-750RPM @ 20mmhg on the flowmeter apparently for this carb (1970 4-screw), the instruction set that came with the carb rebuild kit states that I should be at 10.38mm on both front and rear carb, online readings indicate that the rear should be configured at ~2mm lower than the front, but the 1970 4-screws have equal length float arms, and the new floats that I got have longer floats needles in the front, while the float needles that came with the carbs are equal length front and rear. When I end up placing a new (aftermarket) float needle into the rear carb, and set it to ~10.38mm FROM THE FLAT PLATE THAT THE FLOAT NEEDLE SITS ON, i end up with a sunk float needle, which leads me to believe that the configuration is incorrect. I think adjusting the float level correctly would be the first thing to do in order to get the mixture configuration correct, does anyone have some input, or maybe some settings that work for their 4-screw? Should I switch the manufacturer for the float needles? Really want to drive it

Hi, My car was in the garage and I ran it out of fuel starting it to keep the battery charged. This has happened before and is always such a pain in the a** as I usually have to take the whole fuel line apart back to the tank to get the fuel to the carbs. Its like the fuel pump will not pull the fuel once it runs dry (air pocket?) . It does not have the pump by the tank just the one on the engine. In the past I have sucked the fuel into the lines with an extra piece of fuel line and did this to draw it up to the engine. Anybody have an idea why the fuel pump wont draw the fuel from the tank - it now has fuel in it. And / or an easier way to get the fuel to the carbs. HELP!!!

Hey y'all. Sorry, I don't know much about forum ettiquette as this is the first one I've joined.The guy said that everything under the hood was perfect, but after driving it for a week, I'm seeing that the carb intakes are leaking gas and the gaskets leading into the engine are wet with gas as well. I'm kind of a novice (at the Forum thing as well as owning a datsun/working on my car) so any pointers would be appreciated! I really want to do the car justice! - Josh Info: Original Engine - 90k miles Idle - 1500, sometimes dips down to lower 1000s Anything else that's relevant?

I am hoping someone has run into this before. I am swapping to DCOE45s from injection on #359550 '77 280Z - I bought an Advanced Fuel Products PN 56-012 fuel pump for carbed RX7s from BD. The outlet is M12-P1 parallel tread male stud - does anyone have a source of supply for, say - M12-P1 Female x 8mm barb fitting? or really any M12-P1 Female adapter to -6AN or 3/8FIP etc etc :stupid:

Good Morning, My Dad has a stock 260Z and he's been talking about getting some webber carbs to replace his su's. Can anyone recommend good aftermarket carbs? Makes, models etc? Thanks, D~

so ive got another wierd problem with this 72 240z of mine. when i get going abut 60 mph it soundslike a lawnmower and boggs down till i get to maybe 45 miles an hour. But it cruises just fine at about 50-55. oh and it does this up hills too. i can take hills only about 25 mph. all of my emmisions crap is removed. ive replaced my fuel pump and filter, flushed my lines and cleaned the parts on the tank that the fuel comes out of with a clothes hanger and compressed air. pulled my carbs apart and cleanedthem out. steve at z therapy set my float bowls for me. and i replaced my points and checked my timing.. still does it... anyone have any idea what i should try next? someone suggested that i need a new distributor and that pertronix kit would fix this. But its pretty out of my budget right now unless i have to. well any advice would be appreciated:) oh by the way it idles good and drives just fine in the city.

I have a 260z with 3 screw dome carbs. It begins to sputter and hestate at speeds approaching 100 mph. It seems fine up until the 100 mark then it is as if it becomes fuel starved. Any idea what this could be. Thanks Glenn

I have tried to rebuild carbs for the first time...not too bad, but I get a hesitation/ stall out when first accelerating then it runs great. Any advice or know anyone in South Florida who rebuilds them? Cheers!

After 2.5 weeks of waiting, my new carbs have arrived! I decided recently that I needed to kick start things with the Z and do something to get me excited about working on the Z again (although the sun coming out really helps lately), so I called up Ztherapy and ordered a new set of carbs and a new balance tube. Next week is dead week and finals the week after that, so it's likely that I won't be swapping anything till spring break. Until then I'll just have to enjoy looking at these beauties.

The DCOM series of weber carbs were the replacement carbs for the Weber DCOE production. The Italian Weber DCOE production lines ceased in the middle of the 1980's and these carbs were the next evolution.Weber didn't forsee though that the electronic fuel injection systems would replace carburetors. The DCOM has improved performance over the DCOE carbs and more lasting on/off use due to the perfected acceleration pump diaphragm and adjustable pump lever. DCOM carbs will bolt on any standard side draft weber 40 DCOE carburettor manifold and uses the same inner parts, namely jets,needles, seats and floats as the former DCOE carbs. I believe this information to be very accurate however I wouldn't like to be quoted on it haha. Hope this has been useful Matt

I just bought a 280z engine for my 240z. It's got fuel injection so i'm removing it for carbs. I know what I need to do to take it off, but i don't own an air compressor or tools for them. Is it needed? or am i able to get by with had tools. I've also taken off the clutch and flywheel to mount it onto the engine stand. I assume to get the clutch back on it might take a little extra torque. Any help would be great. Thanks.

Well, earlier i had posted a picture of my engine all torn apart so i could clean it up a bit. Everything from the air cleaners to the Intake Manifold came off. It was running great before hand, but now that ive put it all back on its running really really fast. First time starting it up, once it had a sip of gas it went right up to 5k before i shut her off. I pulled the fast idle scew down as far as it could go and im still idleing between 3-4k rpm with the choke out in the fully forward position. I havent moved any screws on the carbs while they were out and i put the choke lines back where there were in the first place. So which scews do i use and which way do i turn them to get the revs lower? HELP! :-P Heres what we have