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Showing results for tags 'clutch'.
Found 17 results
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Hi I’m the owner of a standard 6/1972 Datsun 240z, which I recently changed the clutch on (with a new clutch kit) because of an oil leak from the rear main seal. All went well on the install and when I finished I began refill transmission with gear oil (Pennzoil Synchromesh). My owners manual calls for 1.5 liters of fluid in the “transmission case”. I ended up filling the transmission, but it never came overflowing out of the fill plug hole after using 2 bottles (which is roughly 2 liters). Should I continue filling until it flows out or hold off? I should also note I had the transmission upside down for couple of days and small amount of fluid did drain from what I believe is the breather (metal circular piece.)
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I have a 71 240. Problem I'm having is it seems like my clutch is always engaged. It's almost impossible to get it into either first or second gear unless the car is off or rolling. In first and reverse with the clutch fully depressed the car rolls forward or back as if I'm letting off the clutch. Also theres a good clunk with the initial shift into reverse. I've replaced the master cylinder slave cylinder looks in good shape no leaks. I have the adjustable shank on my slave cylinder so I tried to thread it out thinking it would improve and it did the exact opposite, so I threaded the shank all the way back to the point where it is just barely (not even 1 ft lbs) touching my clutch fork and still I'm having the same issue. System has been bleed completely and I cant take anymore away from the shank on the slave cylinder. Later I will try adjusting the clutch pedal from under the dash see if that gives me any improvement. Any advice or suggestions would help thanks for the read!!!!!!
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Ok I ran a search here for clutch pedal swap and spent the last hour reviewing the posts on the issue and I'm probably more confused than ever. I recently purchased a 73 240Z Automatic that came with a spare engine/ manual trans from a 72 240z (or so I'm told). So I'll be swapping the trans to stick. I know the existing pedal work will work for the change out by changing the brake pedal and adding the clutch pedal. In reading all the post there seems to be quite a bit of disagreement on what will work and what won't. Does anyone know for CERTAIN if 72 pedals will work in the 73 or do the pedals have to out of a 73? Thanks in advance
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Doing a auto to manual conversion on a 73 240z. Need a clutch pedal. As I understand it need to be from a 73 in order to align with the opening in the firewall. I'm told there are differences among the various years. Call or text Paul at 219-916-2321
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I posted a while ago asking if anyone had found a stainless clutch hose that fit 100% no one had the reason i asked is that i bought one from MSA and it was too loose to fit into the frame bracket retaining sleeve I contacted a company called techna-fit in indiana they said no problem send us your old one we will match it they did perfectly and the best part is the cost $ 10.00 plus shipping in the photos the longest one is MSA and looking down the one on the left is MSA the right techna - fit
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On my 73 240 I recently removed the tranny in order to replace the clutch. I got it out, it wasn't easy just using floor jacks and jack stands but I got it out. I was reading the manual and I see that it says to remove engine as well. Is that necessary? Would it be difficult to put the tranny in w/o having removed the engine? I can see that it will be difficult to get the tranny back up in there with engine in place due to the small up high tunnel.
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Hi all, Had a setback recently with brakes. I have installed: new hoses, hard lines at the drumps, pads, rotors, calipers, rebuilt the drums, and a new master cylinder. I have bled brakes before and as usual started with the furthest from the master cylinder (start with the rear left, then rear right, front right, front left). My issue is starting with the rear right, I'm not getting any fluid to pump from the master cylinder to the bleeder. Even when completely disconnected this doesn't work. I am assuming that I have a blockage in the hard lines and wanted some advice on clearing it. I am using the old school method of pumping the pedal and want to know if investing in a pressure bleeder might work or if I'm missing something altogether. I DID bleed the master cylinder without issue. Chris
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Literally just bought a 1972 240z with an l24, 4 speed, r200 diff swap, dual su carbs, MSA stage 2 cams and springs, and E31 high compression head, and adjustable dump valve for decibel levels. The previous owner said that the car is just barely making too much power for the stock clutch in the car. I had to drive it home from Kansas City to where I live back in Arkansas, I immedately felt the clutch start to slip once I got about 250 miles down the road, it was either on it's way out, I burned it out (doubt is the case after owning a z33 for 6 years with stage 2 JWT clutch), or it has too much power like he had said (taken with a grain of salt). What are the chances that this is the case, and if so, what clutch should I get that would safely grab any power I might be putting down? Additionally, I notice most of the slave/master cylinders are all original on the car. Car has 88k original miles on it, what brand cylinders should I get? Any input would be appreciated as this this my first 240z. Cheers.
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I have had numerous people recommend the clutch kit from Exedy. I was wondering if this kit (# 06029) will definitely fit my 1972 240z l24 w/ 4-speed transmission, r200 swap, MSA cam/springs, 6-1 header, and 2.5 exhaust. Also, should I replace anything else while I am down there (ARP bolts all around, collar...etc)? Any help would be appreciated. My clutch seems to be slipping once I hit my max torque range. My clutch feels very light, I have not adjusted my clutch yet, though, I have a sneaking suspicion it is the clutch altogether. The only reason I am hesitant is that I am not sure since the clutch does slip in 1st, only 2-4th when I hammer down. I plan on buying the Exedy master cylinder also. Has anyone had any experience using an aftermarket flywheel with their Exedy clutch setup, if so, which brand would you recommend? Looking on the Exedy website, it has two different sizes for the slave cylinder based on production date I believe, where do I check to find when mine was made? Thanks gents, still trying to learn everything about the car as fast as I can before I start taking her apart, cheers. https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit/06029/i-125964.aspx https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exedy-oem-clutch-master-cylinder/mc169/i-127934.aspx https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exedy-oem-clutch-slave-cylinder/g-52789.aspx
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Hi all, I've been really cranking away at my Z (11/70) and put my stroker in as well as the new 5 speed. My issue is fitting the old clutch cylinder to the new clutch fork. On my old 4 speed transmission the fork had a hole in it for the threaded rod to go through and I could compress the clutch fully. However on the new one, this hole does not exist and I can't compress the rod fully to bolt the clutch to the new transmission. Really hoping for some suggestions on this and thanks in advance for the help. Chris
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Just like the title says, I'm looking for a R200 3.7 LSD diff out of a 87-89 300zx. The closer to Ohio the better.
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Hi guys, I recently picked up a 3.1L stroker for the Z that I'm going to swap into it in the next couple months and was hoping for an opinion on clutch choices. I actually already have two: a six puck clutch and a centerforce clutch. I got both of them with the engine and a 5 speed. I'm looking to maintain streetability through this evolution but I'm not sure which one is the best way to go and was hoping for opinions. Again, I have both of them brand new already so whichever one I don't use I'm just going to sell off anyway. Thoughts and opinions are very much appreciated! Thanks! Chris
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Okay, I've pulled the transmission and replaced the rear main seal, trans. input seal and trans. output seal - the whole interior of the bell housing was coated with a nasty mix of motor oil, gear oil and clutch dust. Now it's time to reassemble. Do you use loctite on the flywheel bolts? Red or Blue? Do you use anti-seize on the flywheel bolts? What about the pressure plate bolts? Is the flywheel or pressure plated coated with any kind of rust inhibitor? If so what is the best way of dealing with this? Should the pilot bearing be greased or oiled or dry? Sorry about all the questions, but I don't want to have to pull the transmission again anytime soon. Thank you, -
Hi I just replazced the clutch preasureplate and bearing on my 1974 260z. It now grabs very close to the top on the clutch pedal travel. How can I adjust the pedal so the clutch grabs a little closer to the floor Thanks Glenn
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MY 72 Stocker has a bug.....when i warm it up i have notice the idle goes up 200-300 rpms when clutch is depressed? When i let it out in goes back down 200-300. What is going on? how do i fix this? thx
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hey so ive been using my 72' Z for around half a year or so. everything was working pretty well, but then one of the cylinders stopped working and then I was lucky enough to have the car stop from going into gear. Luckily my dad was able to somehow get my car home in 1st gear. so basically my car is sitting in my driveway and I really need it fixed cause i cant keep using my parents cars and the school year is about to begin in a week. so if anyone could help with the car not going into gear it would be cool.
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I just bought a 280z engine for my 240z. It's got fuel injection so i'm removing it for carbs. I know what I need to do to take it off, but i don't own an air compressor or tools for them. Is it needed? or am i able to get by with had tools. I've also taken off the clutch and flywheel to mount it onto the engine stand. I assume to get the clutch back on it might take a little extra torque. Any help would be great. Thanks.
