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I noticed today that MSA has begin to offer refurbished differential hanger brackets on an exchange basis. In their write-up on these new parts, they discuss applications in relation to solving the differential 'clunk' problem and emphasize that Series 1 owners will need to install the Series 2 differential hanger parts and moustache bar in order to be able to use the Series 2 front insulator (I believe that this is because the arrestor strap won't fit otherwise). This made me curious, so I started to look around some of the commonly-used parts vendors' websites to see if anyone was offering the Nissan Series 1 part (PN 55415-E4102, for reference). A quick look turned up 'not available' at Rock Auto and Chesapeake Nissan. Z-Car Source of Arizona offers only used units, and only on special order. Courtesy Nissan lists the part and a price, but that doesn't mean they have it or can get it (I haven't asked them yet). MSA lists it, but warns that it "...has been discontinued by Nissan or another manufacturer, and we are currently in the process of locating an alternate supplier or having the item reproduced" So: Is a new OE Series 1 diff mount/insulator definitely NLA ? If so, are there any known aftermarket options?

Hi Guys, Going to look at a used differential this week to pair with a ZX transmission I just pulled. Was trying to think of things to check before buying. Check Diff stamp on ring gears Internal welds Metal on the drain plug Damage to spider or ring gears Play in the pinions that hold the spider gears. Damage to the pinion seal or bearings. What else am I missing? Thanks to @Zed Head for some initial inspiration here.

This topic picks up on a mini-conversation that I started on Grannyknot's 280Z build thread. These little washers are an important part of the NVH isolation design for the Z's rear diff. The design, from an engineering perspective, is a lot more sophisticated than meets the eye, so there's an incentive to try to install a proper replacement if your own have deteriorated (which they probably have, if they're 50-year-old originals). Unfortunately, the part is NLA from Nissan and none of the primary Z restoration parts suppliers offer a substitute. There's been some discussion about the need to use vulcanized rubber. I think that's a red herring (look up, 'vulcanized') and was meant to infer that the rubber part needs to be bonded to the metal part. While the originals might have relied on a heat-bonding process, its now 2019 and we have aerospace adhesives for this purpose. So: All we really need is the rubber part. Steve / Nix240 has cobbledup a wide range of rpreviously unavailable rubber parts for our Z's. I see nothing special about re-creating the moustache bar runner washers, other than using a suitable durometer rubber and having access to a good-condition original to create a mold. After that, they could be bonder to a suitable metal washer and, presto, we have another part taken off the NLA list. I think these washers carry across the entire 240-26-280 series without any differences. Maybe even the ZX's? Also: I'm thinking that the same might be the case for the Series 1's diff front insulator. Steve creates the rubber piece, then the owner carves the perished rubber out of his insulator, cleans up the metal armature, and then bonds in the new rubber. @nix240z Steve: What do you think?

The higher pitch is me blipping the throttle. When coasting it's quite and on acceleration where the engine is actually pushing i.e. going down hill faster than gravity, it has this whine. The last transmission flush had an inch of shavings on the magnetic drian plug. I have a 4 speed 260z and a unknown welded diff. Plans to swap out to spare open diff. and swap in a 5 speed 240sx transmission. Any info on that swap would be helpful to have!!! PS 75mph is actually 60mph

This is my first video how to, and first time doing the diff service. it might not be the correct way but its the best way i could get the job done. hopefully this helps others out so they can get out there and enjoy their car as well.

Hello there, I am currently on the hunt for a long nose R200 differential! Ideally I would like a 4.1 CLSD. However I will happily settle for a 3.9 CLSD. I seem to be having poor luck with local yards and shops and decided to drop back in here as I scavenge. Additionally It would be wonderful if anyone has a 280z mustache bar from a part out! ... Or anywhere really, my swap budget has been exceeded already (probably not surprising)! Any direction or advice is greatly appreciated! Note: I'm a Canadian resident and I'm willing to ship for the right part! Thanks, Wesley

I have a R200 from an 86 300ZX and all of the parts to bolt into a 240Z. I will entertain offers for next couple days. R200 3.70 Speedo conversion Stub axles Halfshafts Front R200 cross member Rear R200 cross member PM me if interested Don

I couldnt find anything that described what I have just the usual clunk at changing gears typical of a bad mount. I have an early 1971 Datsun 240z with a 4 speed manual built in 1/71. All original to my knowledge. Besides the clunk at accel and decel (front diff mount that is no longer in production) I also have a loud clunking/rattle when i let go of the gas over 60mph then goes away under 60mph. Sounds like somebody with 2 hammers hitting the bottom of the car rapidly. When I have it up on jack stands it does the same on 2nd and 4th gear at idle. its louder on the drivers side wheel for some reason.. Quieter without the wheels. when i hold the drivers side wheel and let the passenger side spin away (yes its an open diff) it still makes the same loud clank on the drivers same if i hold the passenger side wheel. still louder on the drivers side.. and also jerks at the wheel when holding it.. Bad Diff?

I need to drain both my differential and my 4 speed transmission. It is filled with non synthetic. I am reading all about redline and or royal purple however they are both synthetic. My understanding is you cant put synthetic oil in if it did not contain synthetic before. IS this true- what do you use if not the synthetic and or how do you convert to use the synthetic. Any help is greatly appreciated

Help! My 260/240Z manual says to torque the side flange bolts on the differential to 40 ft-lb. I tried that and just snapped one off at 20 ft-lbs. should the torque really be 40 IN-LBS?

Okay so I have a 74 260z that im looking to get as much torque and acceleration as I can. I have the basic 2.6 with dual webers on it with headers and all the emission junk removed. Ive replaced the starter, water pump, radiator fan clutch, upgraded the 4 speed to a 5 speed tranny replaced the brake booster, master cylinder, the clutch master and slave cylinder. What I have left to do is get the alternator rebuilt or replaced, replace the coil, get the headlight harness Dave makes, and replace the gas cap (the one I have doesn't seal and when i take left turns with a full tank of gas i loss my fuel) also I kinda want to upgrade to a stage 2 cam and redo the differential to get some serious torque... Unfortunately I dont know what I already have... havent checked but what I would like to know is what would upgrading the cam and changing the gear ratio do for me? and how or what do i need to do or get to achieve the most get up and go of the line?

Hey there, I'm a young guy with a datsun 280z in my garage, have done tons of work, including frame rails from the firewall foreward, along with alot of bodywork and much more, I built up a 305 to drop in, anyway, wanted some input on the engine mounts/rear end work needed, along with brake ideas, and suspension!!! Oh yeah should i buy the floor pan kit, or just bang out some sheet metal and patch in the rust wholes in my floor? anyway, money is limited, but i have about 5 grand i want to put into it over the next couple years.. its very much a side project but i want it to get on the front burner.. Cheers Jeff