Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'door'.
Found 17 results
-
My driver's side door lock has been difficult to unlock since I acquired the car. The little arm attached to the lock cylinder that fits inside the locking mechanism in the door has way too much play and I had to jiggle the key back/forth forcefully to get it to unlock. While I had the door glass out, I cut a small piece of fuel line from an old weed-eater and slid it over the arm. It works so much better now. Easy to lock/unlock with very little force needed. I shot a little silicone lube on the outside of the hose to keep it from binding in there. Is good, yes?
-
Mint condition 1979 280ZX dash, along with door panels that are in great shape. Included are the lower dash panels with courtesy lights, steering wheel, spare tire cover, center air conditioner vents, radio mount, fuse box cover. Zero cracks. A rare find, with analog Quartz clock, chrome trimmed door pockets, cigar lighter, stereo surround adjuster. Wiring harness is intact, and complete. Both defroster ducts included, pictures only show the one, but both are included. Door panels are in great shape, solid with no tears. Spare tire cover has a few blemishes, but is very acceptable. Discoloration in pictures of dash and A/C vents is cleaner that was drying. Right side lower dash panel with courtesy light was drilled for alarm system, but is not seen when mounted since its on the bottom of the panel, vacuum selector switch on left panel is also intact. Give me a reasonable offer for all.
-
I have a few questions that I'm hoping some of our CZCC veterans can answer: Door Panels: The parts manual shows a change made to the Door Panel Assemblies (lhs and rhs) starting in 71-10. Can anyone comment on the design change(s) made? (Note that the upper/lower Hinges are not considered to be part of the Door Panel Assemblies) Door Hinges: The parts manual shows a change made, starting in 72-07. Oddly, though, the change is noted only for the upper hinges. The lower hinges are shown as staying unchanged. This seems odd, because I believe that the design change included adding a revised travel limiter link with a detent, so that the doors would have two opening positions: fully-opened, and half-opened. The travel-limiter link, however, is part of the lower hinge. And the Nissan 'updates' document that Carl Beck posted a couple of days ago indicated that the detent feature was added to the driver's door only. Is there a mistake in the parts manual, or am I missing something? Lock Cylinders and Keys: At some point in its development, the S30's locking system switched from a 2-key set-up to a single-key arrangement (I thought this took place as part of the launch of 1972 models, but maybe it was actually when the 'early-to-late' transition happened during MY-71). In any case, it would seem that the design of the lock cylinders would have been revised as part of this change. However, the parts manuals shows no changes to the parts numbers for the door and tailgate lock cylinders over the complete span of the 240 model. The steering column lock assembly (c/w lock cylinder), on the other hand, shows a change in 70-10 (why?) and then nothing until 73-07. Can anyone explain how all of this works?
-
Just passenger door, no window frame, or panel no reasonable off refused rhchew@att.net 909 560-3095 So Cal LA area
-
Just passenger door, no window frame, or panel no reasonable off refused rhchew@att.net 909 560-3095 So Cal LA area
-
I bought my Z in October and have been wrenching on it since. From the start, both doors didnt latch properly which I suspect the previous owner is to blame. Rotating the cylinder locks it into place when you spin it by hand but when you close the door, it doesnt latch secure. Ive adjusted the striking latch on the body and lubricated all moving parts but had no luck. Could the door alignment be partially to blame? After comparing some photos of door / trim spacing, my door gap seems too large. Also the lock mechanism doesnt engage either (tested with door shut). Also the driver side window doesnt stay in the track. The front half of the window (closest to front) dips down and binds when coming up. When I pull the window straight back towards the rear of the car and crank it up, it usually pops out and binds elsewhere. The window rolls down easily enough. Ive adjusted the bolts securing the window mechanism but also with no luck. Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
-
Has anybody tried these? Are they any different from the generic moulded-vinyl stick-on strips available at parts stores? Since the original accent strip is heat-embossed to the door card vinyl and thus not removable, I'm having difficulty visualizing how that kind of stick-on strip (has a flat mounting surface) can be installed on top of the original strip without it sitting way too high. I'm hoping that these might, instead, have a 'U' cross-section so that they fit as a cap over the original strip.
-
This just started happening out of nowhere a while back. I can feel the popping/vibration through the handle as it rolls up and down. It doesn't appear to be slipping on the little gears, but that what it sounds like. I've lubed the window tracks but it still pops like this. Any ideas?
-
Version 1.0.0
96 downloads
Original Article Enrique Scanlon (2004) - Revised & Expanded with Bob Kroshefsky (2011) Pictures by Bob Kroshefsky (2011) P/N Breakdown by Bob Kroshefsky (2011)Free -
I happened to be looking at my '70 Z's door striker plates (aka 'door catch') the other day and noticed, for the first time, that they're not as simple in design as I thought. It had always been my impression that they're just one-piece metal stampings. When I turned one of them over, I discovered that this isn't the case at all. They're actually pretty complicated in design and construction, consisting of: Main stamping Cushion Block (rubber molding with a metal insert) Mounting Pin & Spring for Cushion Block Mounting Boss (metal stamping) for Cushion block I'm not really sure how the cushioning block arrangement is supposed to work. Any efforts to make it pivot on its mounting pin have been unsuccessful, so I'm not even sure if it's supposed to move in the first place (but then, why is there a spring? and why does it appear that there's a metal tab on the mounting boss to set a 'rest' position?). Note: In the third picture, I levered the 'leg' of the cushion block away from the striker plate surface to show the amount of flexibility it has (i.e. the leg's displaced position wasn't generated by the cushion block pivoting on its pin). Normally, the 'leg' rests on the inner surface of the striker plate, as shown in picture #2. In addition, I'm not sure whether either of my striker plates has a fully-intact cushion block. As you'll see from the last picture, the cushion block for my left-door striker plate has broken off up near the pivot pin. I'm not even certain that the cushion block on my right-side unit is still its original length. Notice how the rubber has worn off on the 'intact' cushion block to expose the metal underneath. This would be the place where the latching lobe impacts and sits when the door is latched closed. So, two questions: 1. Does anybody have a picture of a NOS striker plate that shows what the cushion block looks like when it's new? 2. Can anyone explain how the cushion block is supposed to work? (i.e. Is it supposed to pivot and, if so, how much? If not, why is there a spring?)
-
I've been trying to source the circled part for 240z door locks to no avail for a while via craigslist, ebay, etc for months. It's the piece that clips to the lock cylinder in the door and connects to the linkage rod. The ones I have (being soft metal) are completely shot and allow the cylinder to rotate without locking to door. I really need a passenger side one more than anything and figured I'd reach out and see if anyone has one laying around that's in good shape and not too worn (or knows where to get a new one). Any and all leads are very much appreciated! Chris
-
Hi all, just stripped the paint off my 73 240Z so I could wrap it in vinyl, and I've come across a problem that has stumped me (granted, this doesn't take much). I recently replaced my driver side door handle because it broke (fatigue and age, I guess), so now it is a nice shiny chrome surface. The passenger side was covered in paint by whoever the previous owner was. Since I've taken off the paint (I used acetone, not an abrasive surface), I've found that the passenger's handle wasn't in the best shape, and looks quite a bit more dull and beat up than the driver's side handle. Is there anything I can do short of re-chroming the handle to make them match a bit better? I've thought chrome spray paint - maybe, but probably more just gray than chrome colored, or sanding it, though unlike much of the car's shiny bits, I'm guessing this isn't just some stainless steel with a high shine on it. (passenger side on left, driver side on right in case it's not obvious) Thanks for any help anyone can provide
-
Hi Everyone, I've got a 1978 280z that I'm in the process of restoring - unfortunately, when I got it back from my paint and body guy, I found that he'd neglected to put back on the clip that screws in with the arm rest in order to attach the chrome finisher (see the pic below). I've tried to locate one online, but have had no luck. Does anyone know what this part is called and where I can find one? Thanks in advance! Luke Austin, TX
-
I found 1970-1978 Door Strikers on eBay and wondered if anyone knows anything about them or this seller. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-1978-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-Door-Strikers-2-pcs_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53df75dd6aQQitemZ360231329130QQptZOtherQ5fVehicleQ5fParts Like many others, I have problems closing my doors and I was thinking new strikers might help.
-
I just bought my first pair of project cars, (two '76 280Zs and I am PSYCHED about them!! ) and both doors on both cars are locked from the outside, but not the inside. I can climb through the hatch and open the doors fine from the inside, and the lock isn't down inside, but once I exit the car and close the door, it is locked! is this some kind of safety feature? is there a way to undo it? or is something broken/stuck? i haven't tried using the key to unlock it (just thought of that, whoops); would that help? (maybe i should have tried that xD). any help would be appreciated, thanks!!
-
can 280z door panels go on a 240z panel. I assume so but what do I have to buy in addition?
-
Has anyone had any good results replating or otherwise restoring peeling chrome plating on interior door panel plastic trim strips?
