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I’ve been slowly rebuilding/restomodding my 280Z. I only have to have exhaust mounted and some tack welds in the rear sway bar. im looking into twice pipes, but would a traditional set up be better for the Rebello? I’m not well versed on exhausts. Any insight would be appreciated. IMG_7616.MOV

To duplicate a post I made earlier on the UK site, I’ve been having a bit of fun doing back to back tests and learning about making YouTube videos - my kids want their own Minecraft channels, so I’m trying to learn with my version, I call it Zcraft! 😄 Ever wondered what an exhaust system would sound like on your car with different mufflers? I personally found that the internet was full small clips but very little in the way of back to back comparisons on the same car. Well, purely for your benefit, I sacrificed myself!!!! I will splice parts of these together one day when I get more time, so that the same bit is played back to back on one video. 1. Thrush / Dynamax 17715 Turbo Muffler (I had some SERIOUS hay-fever that day so forgive my lifeless voice). 2. Zstory Classic Muffler (forgive the jibe at you left-hookers) [ 3. Zstory JDM Muffler (forgive my boyish squeaking) 4. Zstory Street Muffler (forgive the camera mount that broke halfway through the clip). Let me know what you think and I hope it's helpful / fun. (To be very clear, I have no affiliation with Zstory nor is this commercial in anyway - it's just me having a bit of fun and sharing it with fellow enthusiasts!)

One of my quarantine projects was to clean out my files of old documents. While sorting through some old car receipts, I stumbled across an invoice from December of 2003 for a complete NOS exhaust system purchased from Courtesy Nissan. With a $70.00 freight charge, the whole system set me back $297.48. Given what a NOS exhaust system would run for today, I should have bought a couple more and sat on them 😉 I recently saw a Datsun 240Z used parts ad for a pair of used Koito headlights with an asking price of $300.00, which got me to thinking: Anyone else have old receipts or recall the prices for parts that today would require the sacrificing of a kidney to own?

Hey Guys and Gals...I'm posting pics of my 78 280Z for evaluation as the PO did a to of modifications to this car that I have no specifics about. I am thinking of selling this vehicle and would like to know if you see obvious problems. Car seem mostly rust free, lot of suspension work done(?), is now running and runs pretty well except for a slightly high idol, gas tank cleaned, new fuel pump, injectors, lines, plugs, new tires, valves adjusted, new belts, hoses, brakes as new , coolant flush etc. If you want specific pics let me know. Interior is original and needs, carpet,rubber,seats covers, and dash is cracked... Would be very interested in your comments and opinions!

Would like to purchase a stainless steel header for my '72 240Z ... stock engine ... just wanted the longevity of stainless. Unable to find "state side" dealers that sale stainless headers. Anyone have suggestions or contacts? I looked at ZStory (nice product) but by the time I buy it and ship it it's +$700. Someone in the states needs to fill this gap with supplying stainless headers for the s30. Any leads appreciated. Thanks

Hey all, I'm once again thinking about exhaust, and I need some info from someone who has the MSA Premium flanged exhaust. I need the length of the longer straight section of the center pipe. Can anyone help me with this?

OKay, so I took my 1970 240Z out last night and got pulled over by the cops for being too loud. I had the week before had a Turbo Thrush muffler installed as the old one was punched full of rust holes. Now I'll admit that the car is loud, but I thought the new muffler had - you know - muffled that enough. I guess not. So, I'm wondering if adding a resonator mid-pipe might make it sufficiently quieter and keep the cops off my back? I'm thinking about either this one - Walker Exhaust 17861 Sound FX Resonator Universal : Amazon.com : Automotive or this one- Flowtech 50252 FlowTech Red Hots Glass Pack Mufflers but don't want to go to the trouble and expense if a resonator isn't going to help. I just want the car to be quiet enough that the cops don't bust me. Plus I have to deal with the stupid fixit ticket. Alternatively, does anyone have any experience with this? Motorsport! SALE! MSA Premium Exhaust System, 70-72, 74 240Z-260Z (For Stock Manifold) - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts MSA says that it's louder than stock. Does that mean it's so loud that it'll still get me in trouble? Sigh. Thanks in advance.

Hey doods. So I got a mid-pipe with an original NICHIRA N3300 resonator on it, and I believe it's a parts-department unit as it's coated in the original black semi-gloss finish. It has a couple of dings and dents, but nothing major. I know it may not be the right one for the 01/1970 car, but it should be close enough at this stage where I can bolt it up and replace it at a later date if I find anything more suitable. My issue is the Exhaust "downpipe" and muffler section. The one from jdm-car-parts is the same as the one that MSA sells, and i've noticed that the merge is not quite as close to OE as it could be. Or maybe the one I have off the car is an aftermarket unit? I'm not quite sure. Which brings me to... questions on the downpipe... Just so I can identify the stuff I have... Does anyone have a photo of the original downpipe and merge joint in the exhaust? I have one that has a formed section and one that is crudely welded where they meet. I am going to take a photo of it today if I can get to where it's stored in time. Does anyone know what the original finish on the exhaust from factory was (not from the parts counter). Aluminized or Raw ERW welded exhaust tube? Crush bends? Who makes the closest reproduction unit? Does anyone have an OE one for sale ? questions on the midpipe Does anyone have photos of the original? Are the N3300 part number units compatible with earlier cars, or should I start looking for another? The dimensions seem to be similar to the exhaust on another car that is an aftermarket welded in unit. Should I remove the black paint and keep it raw? I'm pretty sure I can remove all the paint fairly easily. I have a good paint remover that I can wipe off with a rag and toothbrush, and it should remove any trace of black paint and bring it back to the all-steel look to match the downpipe and muffler if they're "steel" looking. Does anyone have an OE one for sale? questions on muffler Does anyone have photos of the original other than the ones on jdm-car-parts? I have one that SEEMS like its the original unit on one of the cars, but it doesn't have NICHIRA embossing on it. It only has INLET <----> OUTLET embossing on it. Was the NICHIRA embossing on all units? Was it raw steel or silver as OEM Who makes the best reproduction of this unit? Does anyone have an OE one for sale? I know it might not seem like a big deal to some but I like the original style stuff, so if it can be made- I'd rather have those on the vehicle. Will try to do a large update on #01606 and post photos in my other unfinished threads soon! Thanks!

I recently had headers and a new exhaust installed on my late 1977 280Z coupe and since then I have had a carbon like residue on the tailpipe and bumper. I understand this is referred to as running rich, are the two related or is this just a coincidence. I am not mechanically inclined and do not have the luxury of a garage that I can use to work on my car so I was wondering if there might be something my mechanic did when installing the exhaust system and header that would have caused this condition. He's a great guy and I am not looking to blame him or anything but I want it fixed and was hoping to get any info pertaining to the subject that may be helpful to him when I go back for an inspection. I have read the Cold Start Valve/Thermo Time switch and a couple of other components might be the issue but still wonder if there might be something related to or connected with the header/exhaust installation that might be helpful in resolving this. Thanks for any and all help.

I wanted to see if anyone could provide me with some insight into the twin pipe system offered by Spirit Garage. I did some searching and cant find a good review of the Spirit Garage system (quality, sound, fitment). I am between that and the Fujitsubo system, which I have seen a few Youtube clips of. I guess I'm not totally sold on the sound of the Fujitsubo system, but could be swayed. I like that screamy loud, race prep'd sound, but also want to the true dual system. I had some trouble figuring out how to source the Spirit Garage system but after a few email exchanges with RHDJapan.com, they agreed to stock it. I was a little surprised by the price that RHD listed it at, compared to the price that it's listed for on the Spirit Garage website ($657 vs $804, converted from Yen), but I guess that's to be expected. Spirit Garage does offer a full stainless system but I'm trying to be a little cost conscious here. The Fujitsubo system is full stainless and less expensive, while the Spirit system I am looking at is only half stainless. That said is it dumb to even consider the Spirit system? Listing on Spirit Garage Website $657: http://www.spiritgarage.com/product/21 Listing on RHDJapan $804: http://www.rhdjapan.com/spirit-garage-50mm-exhaust-muffler-s30z-s31z.html Fujitsubo Sale Price on RHDJapan $737: http://www.rhdjapan.com/fujitsubo-legalis-r-exhaust-muffler-s30-gs30-hs30-hs30h.html

To start, I have a '78 Black Pearl, (Real638), which I've owned since early '81. The car has not been driven since around 1990, & I just started working on bringing it back to life a couple of months ago. The engine had never been apart - it made it 184K & still ran ok when parked. It is missing the rear lifting lug & for all I know it may have been gone when I bought the car. I know the issue of broken rear exhaust manifold studs has been covered several time before, but I'm not satisfied with the explanations I've seen for this & I can't find an answer on how to solve the problem. From what I've read the hook is gone & the stud broken on nearly all 1st generation Zs. Banzai Motorworks says they reproduced the early lug because nearly all the cars that came into their shop were missing it. When I pulled the manifolds I found the stud had broken flush with the head. I broke 2 others during removal, as well as the bolt in the front, and one bolt for the radiator hose fitting on the other side, but they all broke with about 1/2" showing. These came out easily with a little heat & vise grips. Yesterday I looked at a '78 in a wrecking yard. Rear stud broken flush with the head. Same with a '74 & early 240 in the same yard. I did find a '77 with the stud, nut & lug still on it! When I put a wrench on it the nut & part of the stud literally fell off - broken flush with the head. I've seen a couple of theories to explain this. One is warping of the manifold causing the stud to break. The other is over tightening during repairs. Neither of these theories, while possible, satisfy me. I think Nissan used the lugs during assembly & that little 5mm stud bent, at the head, & cracked. I'm thinking about making up a sleeve, with room for manifold heat expansion. Thoughts on this?

Hey guys, I recently had an AC system installed in my 240z, it's a second generation 280z AC unit and I had an issue with it since I kept feeling hot air coming into the car at high speeds. So after a bit of checking I noticed two leaks from the firewall which i sealed off and one more larger hole on the passenger side, under the dash that brings in air from outside (picture attached). I ended up sealing that large hole as well with insulation foam and it solved my hot air coming in issue BUT, now I have another issue. I can now smell exhaust fumes in my car. My theory is when I sealed that large hole the air pressure in the car changed and it is now sucking or letting air in. Does that make sense?

Searching for an L28 - square port - mild steel - 3 into 2 header with 1 3/4" Primary Tubes Can find 1 1/2 or 1 5/8 .... And Japanese unobtainium... Can anyone suggest a manufacturer currently producing them? I thought ATS/Stahl was still making them but they say no -Can anyone say where there jigs went to? All help will be appreciated

I've had a Flowmaster muffler on my 240 for about 12 years. I bought an MSA 6-into-1 header, their 2.5" stainless kit (with DynoMax muffler) and had it installed by a local shop. I didn't like the DynoMax muffler too much, and it was occasionally rattling, and after a few tries at the original shop to fix it, I took it to another shop. I had them put on a Flowmaster, and they did a few very minor tweaks to the piping so stop the bumping and rattling. I liked the sound better, and it served me well for awhile. About a month ago, due to ignition issue I was having (long story, suffice it to say don't use a MSD Blaster II coil with a Pertronix Ignitor) I had a very loud boom of a backfire one day and the Flowmaster was damaged a little. Somewhere inside of it, some baffles or chambering or whatever got blown out of bent, resulting in a bit more of a "hollow" tone. I didn't have any visible damage that I could see without putting it on a lift, but after a few days I started to think it was leaking a little. I've always wanted a "twice pipes" setup, but that wasn't in the cards for now, so I tried finding a single-inlet, dual-outlet muffler that would fit the bill in terms of outlet size, orientation, and overall muffler length. No dice. I started looking into MagnaFlow mufflers, and sure enough they have a normal oval muffler in the center-inlet, offset-outlet configuration I needed. I read on this forum and others that MagnaFlows are a little more quiet than Flowmasters (but flow better) so I wasn't sold on a direct 9"x12" oval replacement. I did a little more research and found a 6" round muffler with offset inlet and offset outlet that I thought would work. I figured it was a little larger than the 4" or 5" round ones that people say are too loud or drone without a resonator. Plus, the muffler shop guy thought the offset/offset configuration might work pretty well without major bending/finessing, so I ordered one from Summit (part # MPE-12636). Sure enough, it was a great fit. Only took a half hour to swap the mufflers, fit the new slash/cut tip, and weld everything up. I love the sound. It's quieter at idle, and maybe quieter in the car overall, but it's louder outside the car to the rear as the RPMs rise. It definitely sounds more like a sports car now. I compiled a before-and-after video and put it on YouTube (see below). It sounds different under load that when just revving, but you'll get the idea. Under load, it starts off sounding sounding like an "angry trombone", and then moves into "angry trumpet" territory at mid-to-high RPMs. http://youtu.be/jXrf_ORXThY

Hey guys! Recently bought a 76 280z. It was pretty clear the car had a bad exhaust leak, which I was hoping would be as simple as a gasket. Unfortunately after removing the manifold I discovered a crack. I can't seem to find replacement stock manifolds anywhere, and the few stock options I did see seemed to be around 650 dollars. The MSA 6-1 headers appear to work fine for around 230, But the shape seems off. They are longer with a different shaped flange at the end? My guess is that they connect under the cab rather than where the old manifold connected. Unfortunately the car is at a relatives until I can get it running again. I do not have the time nor money for a full exhaust system swap to the 2.5 pipes or anything like that. What exactly is required to replace this manifold?? HP/sound improvements are not necessary, yet definitely welcomed if the price is right. Any advice or knowledge about doing a direct bolt in replacement would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys! SIDENOTE: The manifold is N47, with round ports.

Ok guys, crazy thoughts going on in my mind here.... Lets say I wanted to replicate the beautiful mixture of engine & exhaust notes from a Skyline 2000 in a 240... How would you go about doing it?

Hi, I would like to find (buy) one Pypes EVT19 exhaust tip. As is, they are sold new from the dealers in pairs and I only need one. Thanks, Dr.240Z

I got to install new headers this weekend! But there is a pinhole in the welding and there is evidence of an exhaust leak:mad: *sidenote* '71 z 4speed stock everything... until now. The hole in the headers is literally about the size of a standard sewing needle I was wondering if anyone else has had any issues with MSA, and how smooth the RMA's are. I plan on calling them tomorrow. I have pictures, I can upload them tomorrow

I bought used headers for my 260z and they seem to line up. The head is square exhaust ports so are the headers. The problem is the intake manafold is 1/2 inch thick and the headers are 1/4 inch thick. How does this work with the circle piece that holds both of these down and together.

1971 240 with SU's/header -- Coolant Water mist sprays out between my intake manifold and head -- Weird. A bit of acceleration and it becomes a little geyser. It is betwwen the number 4 exhaust and intake runners and has actually made a hole in my manifold gasket. Could it be a leak inside the intake manifold? There is a water passage there. Please help!!! Thanks!!!

I am installing headers, 3 into 2's on my 1974 260z. There are some differences such as the headers do not have the 6 tubes that extend into the exhaust ports, from reading some other treads I think these are the smog tubes. On my original manifold these were cut and welded shut So I assume this means there is no problem with not having the tubes on the headers as I guess the smog is disconnected. Is this correct. The other difference is the original manifold has the tube for the exhaust gas to recycle -the headers do not. What do I do about this. Any suggestions Thanks zdude1967