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I have had numerous people recommend the clutch kit from Exedy. I was wondering if this kit (# 06029) will definitely fit my 1972 240z l24 w/ 4-speed transmission, r200 swap, MSA cam/springs, 6-1 header, and 2.5 exhaust. Also, should I replace anything else while I am down there (ARP bolts all around, collar...etc)? Any help would be appreciated. My clutch seems to be slipping once I hit my max torque range. My clutch feels very light, I have not adjusted my clutch yet, though, I have a sneaking suspicion it is the clutch altogether. The only reason I am hesitant is that I am not sure since the clutch does slip in 1st, only 2-4th when I hammer down. I plan on buying the Exedy master cylinder also. Has anyone had any experience using an aftermarket flywheel with their Exedy clutch setup, if so, which brand would you recommend? Looking on the Exedy website, it has two different sizes for the slave cylinder based on production date I believe, where do I check to find when mine was made? Thanks gents, still trying to learn everything about the car as fast as I can before I start taking her apart, cheers. https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit/06029/i-125964.aspx https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exedy-oem-clutch-master-cylinder/mc169/i-127934.aspx https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exedy-oem-clutch-slave-cylinder/g-52789.aspx

So after many long years I have upgraded to a L28ET in my 76 running MS3PRO. I am now in need of a clutch for my beast as stock will not hold up to the power. I have looked at after market clutchs and not really impressed with costs. What I did notice is the parts from the L@* are interchangeable with many other nissan engines. The KA, VG30, Z24, L20, SD22, SD25 all seem to have the same basics about them when it comes to the clutch with the size of the surface being different. From what I have read the D21 4x4 truck clutch can hold some HP also.. Well good news is I found a clutch set up that runs under 400 with 18lbs flywheel. setup is 35lbs total. This is a custom flywheel with a 350Z plate and disk stock realese/pilot.. Enjukuracing.com offers a great deal on a custom setup for the L series engines and all of it is OEM parts except the flywheel. A whopping 250mm pressure plate and disk that hold 400HP all day long... Now the poor mans setup....AKA "White Bunny" Flywheel - 240MM 12310-N4256 280ZX 1979-1983 GL, NON GL 6 Cyl 2.8L L28E, L28ET 720 Pickup 1982-1986 DX, GL, ST, STD 4 Cyl 2.0L, 4 Cyl 2.4L Z20, Z24 Hardbody Pickup (1986.5-1994) 1986-1990 Basic, DX, SST, ST, STD 4 Cyl 2.4L Z24 Pathfinder 1987-1990 DX 4 Cyl 2.4L Z24I Clutch Disk - 240MM C010M-24086 280ZX 1980-1983 GL 6 Cyl 2.8L L28ET 300ZX 1984-1989 GL, GLL, SF, SS 6 Cyl 3.0L VG30, VG30T Presure Plate - 240MM - 30210-P9500 280ZX 1980-1983 GL 6 Cyl 2.8L L28ET 300ZX 1984-1987 GL, GLL, SF, SS 6 Cyl 3.0L VG30, VG30T Bearing Release - 30502-21000 200SX 1979-1988 DX/SL, GL, SGL 4 Cyl 1.8L, 4 Cyl 2.0L, 4 Cyl 2.2L, 6 Cyl 3.0L CA18ET, CA20E, VG30E, Z20E, Z22E 240SX 1989-1997 SE, STD 4 Cyl 2.4L KA24D, KA24DE, KA24E 280ZX 1979-1983 GL, NON GL 6 Cyl 2.8L L28E, L28ET 300ZX 1984-1989 GL, GLL, SS 6 Cyl 3.0L VG30T 720 Pickup 1980-1986 DX, GL, ST, STD 4 Cyl 2.0L, 4 Cyl 2.2L, 4 Cyl 2.2L Diesel, 4 Cyl 2.4L, 4 Cyl 2.5L Diesel L20B, SD22, SD25, Z20, Z22, Z24, Z24I Datsun 810 1980-1984 DX, SL 6 Cyl 2.4L, 6 Cyl 2.8L Diesel L24E, LD28 Hardbody Pickup (1986.5-1994) 1986-1994 Basic, DX, GST, SST, ST, STD 4 Cyl 2.4L, 6 Cyl 3.0L KA24E, VG30, VG30E, Z24 Hardbody Pickup (1995-1997) 1995-1997 Long Body SE, Long Body XE, Short Body XE 4 Cyl 2.4L, 6 Cyl 3.0L KA24E, VG30E Pathfinder 1987-1997 DX, SE, ST, XE 4 Cyl 2.4L, 6 Cyl 3.0L, 6 Cyl 3.3L VG30E, VG30I, VG33E, Z24I Van 1987-1990 E, XE 4 Cyl 2.4L Z24I Pilot bushing - 32202-B950A Stock Pilot Bushing - 32202-B9500 Nismo IMPORTANT INFO Use the realse bearing from the year of transmission as advised from others......

So what i am dealing with is a 74 260z coupe with a 5 speed from a 280z and the starter on it is from a 280zx. Initially I use to have issues with the key ignition just clicking over, so I bypassed that with a push start to turn the starter over, after that resulted in the same outcome after a good while I decided to install a stand alone starter silinoid and ran the push start to it then to the starter. Now my issue is the start just spins, Ive had the started tested at a local autoparts retailer and it passed, I even tried a new starter and new battery all with the same outcome, When looking at the flywheel it doesnt seem to be to far gone that it wouldnt be engaging. One odd thing is if I jump the starter it will spin but shortly after that i can hit the push start and it will engage... SOMETIMES. I am really baffled with what to do from this point if anyone has any ideas I would greatly appreciate your help.

Okay, I've pulled the transmission and replaced the rear main seal, trans. input seal and trans. output seal - the whole interior of the bell housing was coated with a nasty mix of motor oil, gear oil and clutch dust. Now it's time to reassemble. Do you use loctite on the flywheel bolts? Red or Blue? Do you use anti-seize on the flywheel bolts? What about the pressure plate bolts? Is the flywheel or pressure plated coated with any kind of rust inhibitor? If so what is the best way of dealing with this? Should the pilot bearing be greased or oiled or dry? Sorry about all the questions, but I don't want to have to pull the transmission again anytime soon. Thank you,