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Showing results for tags 'fuel gauge'.
Found 6 results
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Hi. Lance here. I finally got around to rewire my 1971 240z. It had a L28 and a faulty wiring and I'm very confused. So, I found a small metal box on the back of my speedo. It have a Yellow and a Yellow/black wire coming out and a red wire that hooks up with the speedo. I teared apart the old wiring and found the yellow one is connected to the IGN Black/White wire using some sketchy electrical tape, and the Y/B one is routed all the way to 4 big 2x5 connector that connects to the engine bay harness. I'm guessing this is a mix matched setup? Voltage regulator is not wired either. Since I'm rewiring the whole thing I just need to know what the heck is this small box. It outputs red about 11.6 volt when battery is connected via Y, and nothing at Y/B. I searched online and found this image of a 260z gauge that appears to have the identical box. It seems those green wires are the Y and Y/B on mine. I did some research online and found out nothing. Have anyone got a idea of what it does? I'm testing the gauges and the speedo and fuel gauge is not working.
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My tank leaks. Not sure if i will be able to get it fixed or if i have to have one built. History: current tank is aluminum rectangle type custom with no sending unit. whether i fix or build i want sending unit. but from what i have heard the 1970 240z sending is 90-10 ohms. Problems: 1-Tank does not have sender so hence no sender retainer to attach the retaining ring for use with the original sender. 2-cant find a retainer to weld to the tank so that the original sender can be used. 3-Might not have enough room for fuel sender arm and may have to use vertical; tube or uncovered. 4-all aftermarket ones are 0-90 or 70-10 or some other ohms but none are 90-10 and readily available Questions: 1-Does the gauge for the 240z fuel level need a 90-10? 2-Can i use a 0-90 and what would that do since it is reversed the ranges are different? If anyone has answers I sure would appreciate including possible alternatives or where to obtain a 90-10. I need to find out asap to either repair or order custom tank. THanks..... -
When I purchase my 240 about a year ago, the previous owner gave me a big box of extra parts. Included in the box was 2 clocks, 3 Amp/Fuel, and 3 Temp/Oil. It looks like there are a few from a 72' 240z and some from a 74' 260z. See picture. I was looking for some assistance on what to do with them. The previous owner didn't think that they were working, but based on his overall lack of knowledge for the car, I think i'd like to test that theory for myself. Can someone give me some insight on how to go about testing these? Secondly, what does demand look like for selling these? I see some on ebay ranging from $30 to $100, depending on the gauge and condition. If they aren't working, is it worth it to spend the money to fix them, then sell them? I'm not overly concerned with getting top dollar for them, they will likely just go back into the box if they aren't worth the time. Summary 1. How do I test them? 2. Are any of them worth anything? 3. If they aren't working, is it worth it to have them repaired/refurbished? Thank you!
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This is probably a stupid easy question for you guys. But I'm new to owning a 280z. I have a 78 by the way. My question is I'm unfamiliar with how the gas gauge is supposed to operate. I know it's a float unit and I've never owned a car with one before. Mine for example right now is on just above slightly a half a tank. But while I'm driving or even sitting still it moves a little, not much, just sometimes it's a half, then maybe a few seconds later it's just above a half slightly where it finally rests. When I drive it seems to go up when I stop etc. Is this normal, and due to the float, or should the gauge be still always and not have a lot of movement.?? I know it's a dumb question but if your share some insight into what's "normal" operation for a 280z fuel gauge I would really appreciate it. -- -
so i purchased a 77 z in january and have been just lightly working with the car trying to fix the years of neglect and trying determine if the problems im facing could be related or if i just have a few multiple. also ive been sifting through the posts on here and cant seem to find answers to what im trying to fix. so im posting a new thread. so to start off this car sat for at least 3 years, runs and drives as well. however running is running but not running well. the car has a poor idle and has quite a bit of hesitation. until reaching about 2500 rpm. and also backfires. exhaust and intake. when the water temp sensor is unplugged it runs a lot better with little to no back firing. but does have an even worse idle. but has no hesitation when the throttle is pressed. ive been looking into it and thought maybe its the afm. however it seems to be working properly and i also figured the water temp sensor wouldnt effect the afm that much so ive begun to stray away from the afm as a likely culprit. also noticed that the spark plugs are all black which i have cleaned a few times since i purchased. which leads me to believe that its running rich. this is something that im wondering is related somehow. none of the gauges aside from the speedo tach and voltage work. all read 0. i have replaced the sending unit for the temp. and have checked the connections and all seem to be fine. checked all fuses and none are faulty. figured before i just started dumping money i would ask and see if anyone has an answer to my problems or problem. thanks! -
OK my tach,fuel gauge,temp and oil preasure as well as the choke light have stopped working a few times in the last couple days. Then they just start working again, wow its the magic Z. In any case this magic is not quite as entertaining as it is a pain in the butt. Any ideas what it could be, the car is a 1974 260z. Thanks Glenn
