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Showing results for tags 'fuel pump'.
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Hello everyone I had a question about voltage. I am a newbie when it comes to wiring and electrical but I did my research and read the forums. I have a 1977 280z and it looks like someone’s been in there trying to figure out the issue. Missing bolts etc. anyways with my multimeter I tested the coil and the resistor and voltage. the voltage was off.. well there was none with the key on the on position, testing on the first terminal on the resistor. so this is what I checked, I went to the battery and checked the cables those are good, car turns over. I looked at the wiring diagram and found the black and white wire that leads to the ignition relay. That wire read at -12.45 volts. As if I I had my wires crossed on my volt meter. Then I searched and found the red and white wire that leads to the battery. And again same thing that wire read -12.45.. I went back to the battery terminals and tested there and that was +12.45. Sooo my question is why is it reading as negative in the wires? Is this normal? Andy ideas as to why the black and white wire that goes to the resistor is getting no power..
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This afternoon I was trying to drive my car to get alignment, I know so many things to do, and when shifting from reverse to first my car stalled and would not fire up after. I started testing things and found that I have no power to my fuel pump. It definitely works still since it ran when I shorted it on a battery, and I have ground to its plug. The problem is the positive terminal has no voltage. I then tested all the fuel pump relays according to the FSM and all pass along with continuity from the positive terminal at the pump to the fuel pump relay. Also, I have reseated my oil pump plug and Have tested for voltage when the ignition is in "Start" and not just "On". Some troubleshooting tips would be much appreciated since I have already tried to look through the FSM and wiring diagram.
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I searched a number of times, but couldn't find the answer to my simple question. When installing a mechanical fuel pump, how is the Permatex - "Permatex 85420 Permashield Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Sealant", applied? Is it applied to each of the four hard surfaces? OR, each side of the two gaskets? Roughly, how much is used on each surface? Also, do I lubricate the pump before installation? Any help is appreciated.
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View Advert Refurbished Kyosandenki Fuel Pump A completely refurbished Kyosandenki fuel pump, original equipment on many 240Z' and 260Z's. The pump was disassembled and cleaned, all fittings stripped and professionally replated. It also features a unique chromed cap. The oil seal and diaphragm are in perfect condition, valves checked for proper operation. This one is perfect for a stock restoration or a blinged-up restomod. $225, shipping is extra at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks. Advertiser jfa.series1 Date 03/11/2019 Price $225.00 Category Parts for Sale
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THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!
- FOR SALE
- USED
A completely refurbished Kyosandenki fuel pump, original equipment on many 240Z' and 260Z's. The pump was disassembled and cleaned, all fittings stripped and professionally replated. It also features a unique chromed cap. The oil seal and diaphragm are in perfect condition, valves checked for proper operation. This one is perfect for a stock restoration or a blinged-up restomod. $225, shipping is extra at actual cost. Payment via PayPal, PM if interested. Thanks.$225
Richardson, Texas - US
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I have recently taken ownership of a 1978 280z, original motor and everything. But, I am having a power issue with the fuel pump wiring. At the relay, I am getting 12V into the relay (the green/blue wire), but only about 3.4 volts out through the other green blue wire. My question is, is this a simple grounding issue, if so, where it the ground for the fuel pump exactly? I have looked at the wiring diagram still my eyes crossed and I have determined that the fuel pump is grounded inside of the ICM with a few other electrical items. So would my best option be to just cut the grounding off before it splits and just screw it onto the chassis for a ground? Would love your guy's help with this. Also, I jumped the fuel pump just to determine if it would work with 12V and it does so at least that works.
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Hi, 11/70 Z converting from a mechanical to a electric fuel pump for my stroker with triple carbs. I have a couple questions on the wiring that I was looking to get some help with. I've consulted various different builds, threads and diagrams and am planning on wiring in a Holley Red Electric fuel pump. I have grounded the wire and the positive side will be going to a relay (which I have figured out already). My questions are firstly: Should I want the fuel pump to turn on when the key is in the ON position or the START position (Will it still be on if in the start position)? My second question is: Of the Wires going to the ignition switch, which one of these would be the correct one for the ON or START position respectively. I have looked at a handful of wiring diagrams and none of them specify which wire is which. Thank you! Chris
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Hello guys! I'm new to this forum and recently new to the datsun world I purchased a 1981 280zx datsun that has been sitting outside a barn for about 4-6 years and since it still had the engine I decided to see if I can get it running before I even consider swapping the same l28e or if I get lucky the l28et. The first things I did was: change the oil, replace the fuel filter flush tank and replace gasoline (regular) replaced battery with terminals flush and replace coolant, spark plug wires (all in correct firing order) change ngk spark plugs (gaped .42 and added oil in each cylinder for lubrication) I cranked it with no luck, I heard the oil pump running loudly but decided to use starter fluid. Once started fluid was sprayed and the engine was cranked and the engine started and was running on starter fluid so my next steps were: clean injectors clean fuel rail replace o rings and insulation I cranked it again without starter fluid and it only cranked but didnt start. So I did a compression test and numbers were 140, 145, 145, 140,145, 155 so compression is pretty good being that 180psi is like new. I removed the fuel return line and cranked the engine and gasoline came rushing out, I tested the spark and its a blue with white tint, engine sounds like it wants to start so timing is good (?), exhaust smells like gasoline and has pulses, and it still doesnt want to start. Each time i remove the spark plugs after attempting to start it, i can see a little wetness on the tip and it smells like gas. It started once with starter fluid but now it just doesnt want to even with it. What do you guys think can be the problem? thank you!
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So, first post. Tried searching and couldnt find anything, even tried the all magical, Google, and still came up pretty empty handed. Ive been having an issue recently with my Z dieing while driving under normal conditions. However, I can put it in neutral, and about a 30-40 seconds worth of turning the key gets it fire back up. I have started with the easy and cheap stuff first. I replaced both the positive and negative battery cables and cleaned and checked the ground wire. Then I replaced the in line fuel filter that is before the electronic fuel pump, which was very needed. It was running the best it ever was, I let it sit in my driveway and run for half an hour to make sure all was good. Went out for a drive and about 10 mins in, it died again. My next guess is the fuel pump relay, maybe that is causing my issue? I checked the two relays under the passenger glove box and the bigger one looks to be in bad shape. I am no expert but this looks pretty burnt??Also, I noticed that the previous owner was messing with these because the black w. white stripe wires were spliced together??
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Year/Model: 1978 280z I recently changed the original fuel pump to a compatible Airtex model. Before the work was done i had power to the fuel pump. After the install i went to start the car and I'm getting no power to the pump. I've chased wire from the pump, up behind the passenger seat, all the way to the fusible link and the battery. I'm thinking the issue MIGHT be the fuel pump relay. Is there any way that it could have been damaged in the process of changing the fuel pump? The first thing i did was disconnect the fuel pump relay and crank the engine to eliminate fuel in the lines. I then disconnected the negative terminal of the battery before any work was performed. I know it isn't the wiring of the pump itself. i multimetered the connection behind the passenger seat and no power there. I've looked at the wiring diagram until my eyes crossed. The fuel pump harness that plugs into the fuel pump relay has 4 wires: 2 green, 1 black, 1 white with black stripe. When the harness is plugged into the relay, i have power to one green wire, but not the other green wire which I think should be the hot output wire from the relay (both green wires should be hot when key is in "on" position) Can i be certain that the relay is bad because i'm not getting power to both green wires. Also...the key is in the "on" position while im doing my readings. (on a 1978 triggers the pump on) Before i go and buy an expensive fuel pump relay ($70-$100) i wanted to bounce the situation off all of you knowledgeable Zheads. Thanks in advance for responses its much appreciated!
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Does anybody have a spare fuel pump relay for sale? part number 25230-79907 Thanks Shay
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Okay so I've been restoring a 75 280z and it's so close to being finished but for some reason my fuel pump won't kick in when the engine is turning over unless I direct connect a wire from the fuel pump to another wire source that is getting current. Is it okay to do this? If so, where can I hook it up so that it's safely getting enough power, isn't stealing too much power from something else and won't burn up any wires or create a huge electrical problem. Oh, also, where would I hook the negative side to?
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Rather than clutter up prior threads on rebuilding the Nikki fuel pump, let me raise this question: can a Kyosan Denki rebuild kit be used for a Nikki fuel pump? We have two great articles on the rebuild process, one from Arne in 2009: http://www.classiczcars.com/articles/fuel-system/rebuild-a-240z-mechanical-fuel-pump-r70/ and one from motivealloy in 2014 that is currently active: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50679-rebuilding-the-nikki-fuel-pump/ At least one of these articles stated the Denki diaphragm is "different" and will not work. The Nissan P/N for the diaphragm is discontinued and NLA and in motivealloy's thread I recently asked where to locate the Nikki rebuild kit but got no answers. In that thread, Darrel provided a link to rebuild kits from New Datsun Parts - that kit is for the Denki fuel pump and one that I purchased. Checking the pictures below I pose this question: I know the Denki diaphragm and oil seal look different but are they different in a manner that makes them functionally unusable? The primary difference on the diaphragm is in the fitting that locks in to the pump arm - doughnut vs. T. The tab on the edge of the diaphragm has a different orientation but that is external, all other dimensions are identical. The Denki oil seal is a boot that is a perfect fit for the Nikki body and is held in place by the diaphragm spring. I've searched extensively for a Nikki rebuild kit but no joy. So... here's the challenge to the experts: point me to Nikki rebuild kits or tell me exactly why the Denki kit will not work. Thanks!
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I went into my garage to start up my car and it began to run,then the car just turns off and won't even start up anymore. We think it might be because of the fuel pump or the engine because when we try to start it up it will try to run for a while but the smoke isn't black it's more of a whiteish color. Another symptom is that the oil on the dipstick is of a chocolatey color, which means water. The car also misfires a lot. We asked a retired Datsun mechanic what would be the cause of this and he responded that water might have been going in the engine and that the year for the 1978 280z developed a crack in the cylinder head and in order to save the engine we had to drain the oil and let the car sit for 24 hours. And put new oil and hope the engine is fine. 2nd we went to oriellys auto parts to see what it would cost to buy a new head cylinder but the guy wanted to know what was wrong with the car and we told him the symptoms, and he decided we needed some head crack sealer that goes in the radiator. And now we're stuck. need help. Skype could be a good way to see what's going on with our car.
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Hi all: First post, so go easy on me. I don't own a Z yet. But I'm going to look at one (a '77 280) that may become available for sale. Current owner says he let the car sit for a couple of years, and the fuel went bad. He drained the tank and refilled with good gas. The car will start, but won't run for long before shutting off. He says it starts right back up and then dies again. He and I discussed, and theorize that there is crud (probably rust) in the tank getting sucked into the tank outlet screen and clogging it. If that theory is right, I assume the tank needs to be cleaned out, and maybe coated to prevent rust. I'm only beginning to learn about these cars. So I don't know what else to look for. It seems that the fuel pump works, and the engine otherwise has spark, or it wouldn't start at all. I'm going to look at the car on Saturday. I plan to take a fuel pressure gauge, starting fluid and a spare fuel filter. What else could be wrong that can be tested without too much trouble? I'm hoping for an easy fix if he decides to sell it to me. Thanks in advance, John.
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I am having problems with fuel pump pressure on my 240z. Can someone point out which is the best electric fuel pump for this stock carburetors? I was using a Carter P60504 and it only puts out 3 PSI. What will be the máximum PSI that both of these carbs will tolerate without overflooding the float valves. How much per carburetor? -
I am hoping someone has run into this before. I am swapping to DCOE45s from injection on #359550 '77 280Z - I bought an Advanced Fuel Products PN 56-012 fuel pump for carbed RX7s from BD. The outlet is M12-P1 parallel tread male stud - does anyone have a source of supply for, say - M12-P1 Female x 8mm barb fitting? or really any M12-P1 Female adapter to -6AN or 3/8FIP etc etc :stupid:
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Hello, it has been about a year since my last post. This car I bought was completely disassembled when I bought it. I am slowly getting it back together and I am not able to figure out where the fuel pump mounts to. There are two sets of holes going through the trunk area and it does not fit there and there are two holes going through the frame and it does not fit there. I have looked for photos of an original and have not been able to find any. I hope someone can show me a picture and help me out. Thank you for your time.
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My nice running '72 with 115k would not start one morning. Fuel was not getting to the carbs (SU-type) and the there was no fuel in the filter. Replaced the fuel pump without effect. Checked the fuel line and it was clear and unplugged. The engine starts with "starter fluid" but is not drawing fuel from the tank. I tried priming the system by adding fuel above the filter. This fuel drained OK to the tank. Carbs are "dry." My service manuals do not have a next step. Any ideas to try next? Thank you, RB
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I have a mid '73 240Z with an electric fuel pump in it, and it's not running. The pump is tested known good out of the car, there's just no power to it from the harness. The passenger footwell relay panel does not have any of the add-on relays for the electric pump nor are there any relays on the firewall by the heater fan like another diagram showed. I found the green wire that runs to the fuel pump on the large blue connector that connects the dash harness to the body harness, and the pump will run if I jump power to it off the battery directly, so the body harness and ground are fine. Wiring diagrams tell me that the green wire splices into the black/white ignition wire somewhere between the key switch and the fusebox, but I can't find anything there, and I'm not about to rip the dash out and start un-taping harnesses to trace wires to find the splice from the green wire to the black/white wire. I can post pictures if it helps.
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We have been working on rebuilding a 1973 240z which we recently purchased and came across another puzzle that I was hoping someone else had experience with. We recently got the car running and took it for a test drive. After driving about five miles we stopped for anoint half an hour and then took off again. Almost immediately the car would buck and shudder any time we tried to accelerate. For a short time it would idle but then shudder and die under acceleration. We ended up towing it home. My initial thought was that the fuel filter was bad. We added some gas to the tank (just in case) and put some Heet in the tank. We then pulled the fuel filter. It did not look dirty nor could I see a water layer. I cut the old fuel filter open just to be sure and it still appeared clean. While this was off I blew air through the gas line back to the tank to make sure it was not plugged and we could hear the air blowing through easily. We then installed the new fuel filter and then disconnected the fuel line on the carburetor side of the fuel pump. The fuel pump is a mechanical kind and it appears to be a new/newer pump. We turned the car over and lots of fuel came through. I dont have a pressure tester to do a real pressure check. We then reconnected everything and fired it up. It started up and ran pretty well. We then tuned the carburetors and found that they were not balanced hardly at all. We used an air flow meter and got them balanced and the idle set and the car was now sounding and idling much better than it had. So we took another test drive. The initial drive was around the neighborhood, low speeds and gently acceleration. The engine ran smoothly so we took it out to the main road. As soon as we began heavier acceleration the engine shuddered and bucked and promptly died. We let it sit for just a moment and it fired back up but would start to die under heavier load. We were able to drive it home carefully. We then did some checking with the engine running while parked and I could not get it to stumble or load up and die. I noticed that the fuel filter barely had any fuel in it. We shut the car off and the filter slowly filled up with fuel. We restarted the car and the fuel filter again ran to where there was barely any fuel in it but I still could not get the car to die. My guess is that either the fuel pump is not pumping at a high enough pressure which starves the engine under load or that something is plugging the fuel line from the tank, again starving the engine for fuel under load. I rechecked the new fuel filter and it is still clean. There is not sludge or grit in it at all. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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I have a '73 240z, stock. I finally got it to spark (see http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41386), and now I'm trying to get fuel to it. After a month of trying to get it to spark, I may have run all of the fuel through it. I put 5 gallons in the tank and cranked the engine for a good 2 minutes with no success. The fuel filter is dry. I looked in my Haynes and Chilton manuals. Each suggest that the '73 didn't have an electrical pump - only the mechanical pump up front. I crawled under and couldn't find an electrical pump, either. At least not an external one. I took a couple of pictures of what I did see, and I'm a little confused. There are two wires coming out of a module on the tank. I assume these are the fuel-level indicator wires. There are 2 more wires in the bundle that look like they've never been hooked up. (see pictures). Either way, I'm not getting gas to my motor. There hasn't ever been ANY debris in the fuel filter - I don't think its a clogged line. Assuming my fuel lines are dry and I only have the mechanical pump, do I have to prime it somehow? Thanks for the help - I'm really a noob when it comes to this, but I'm really enjoying the education. (My wife is trying to talk me into selling it, she doesn't really believe that I enjoy working on it. Would be an easier sell if it was ACTUALLY RUNNING:angry:).
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Hello Does anyone know why only one set of points of my dual points 73 240Z automatic is sparking? Also, is it possible to try and get the engine running by using gas out of a bottle, since the fuel tank is being reconditioned? Thanks
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I currently own a 1978 280z. I recently replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, and cleaned out all the lines and gas tank due to it running extremely lean reaching 4k RPM's. Now as i try to push the car harder into the 5k RPM range it starts to lose power and the RPM's drop then kick up then drop again. This has also been happening in any RPM range when ever i floor it. My thought is the new fuel pump is sending too much fuel(or not enough) and there isn't enough air getting into the engine because it has a stock air-box which i cleaned out in hopes of fixing something but I had no luck. Ill post a video of the problem as soon as possible. Thanks.
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Hey I just bought a 1974 260z for $1200. Its in amazing condition for the price, no rust, good interior (original), original red paint with little oxidization, and new tires. I couldn't drive it when i bought it due to the fact that it was broken into and the aftermarket MSD ignition was stolen (why the price was low). But i figured if the 4 speed manual transmission was shot or the engine busted i could part it out for a decent profit. Well i bought the MSD ($189 at kragens) hooked it up and turned her on. The sound was amazing but before i could drive it she shut off. It wouldn't idle i could gas it and she would stay running but as soon as I let go of the accelerator it turned off. So my question is why wont it idle? carburetor? (dual webers) Fuel pump? i did replace the fuel filter though it wasn't bad at all. Thanks for your time, Josh
