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Showing results for tags 'fusible'.
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Hello Z Community, I am coming back in hopes to revive my Datsun once again. Before I jump back in I want to give a back story to this situation. Car has been sitting in garage for the past 9 months. I charged the battery in hopes to get it cranking and starting again. After some attempts of failure, I left the car in the ignition and turned to "on" (where you hear the buzzing). Fire ensued. The fusible link for the Alternator/Ignition Relay link caught fire. (diagram below) I replaced the fusible links and charged the battery. It can be seen below (black). (You can see some of the fire aftermath at the bottom of the fusible link. It is like a pimple) Car started to idle rough but then idled perfectly. However, it can not hold its charge. I would attempt to drive the car the next day, but it would struggle to crank. So i made sure I charged the battery again and drove the car around. Battery is new. From previous attempts(previous thread), we did test the alternator and did get a charge. I wanted to ask the community, what is withholding my car from holding its charge? I do want to mention, there is an aftermarket radio that was installed in the vehicle by the previous owner. A friend suggested that improper installation caused a short circuit and was the leading cause of the fire. I pulled the radio today and found copper(or some metal exposed). Would this have instigated any issues to what has happened to me? (pic Below)
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Completed my installation of a fuse block to replace the ageing fusible links. Used the same Mini ANL block that Mike W used in his 260, except purchased the 4 fused output block. One 80A ANL for the alternator feed back, and three 50A for the other circuits were the fuses I used. This model has 2 inputs so I will eventually run another cable from the unused port to a inexpensive 2 output small fuse block without the digital bling for the FI links. The display has 4 led's for the fuse status, and the system volts / current. The display cycles between volts & amps about every 10 seconds and shuts itself off in 90 seconds if there is no circuit activity. A good thing, I was worried it would stay lit up all the time & was getting ready to put a small toggle switch on the ground wire for the display to kill it. Worked out well. Fairly accurate, shows my battery to be 12.9 volts when the car is off. Shows my parking / dash lights are 3 to 4 amps when on.
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