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Wanting to get the center gauges lighting to work. Replace the bulbs, by removing the center heating console. Still did not work, have found out that its due to the ground on the socket not being connected correctly. When i touch them on the side of the gauge, they light up. But when installed it doesnt light up. Tried bending the ground on the socket back, with limited success. Figured i need to replace the sockets. Does anyone know where to find sockets, or what to look for? Thanks

My tank leaks. Not sure if i will be able to get it fixed or if i have to have one built. History: current tank is aluminum rectangle type custom with no sending unit. whether i fix or build i want sending unit. but from what i have heard the 1970 240z sending is 90-10 ohms. Problems: 1-Tank does not have sender so hence no sender retainer to attach the retaining ring for use with the original sender. 2-cant find a retainer to weld to the tank so that the original sender can be used. 3-Might not have enough room for fuel sender arm and may have to use vertical; tube or uncovered. 4-all aftermarket ones are 0-90 or 70-10 or some other ohms but none are 90-10 and readily available Questions: 1-Does the gauge for the 240z fuel level need a 90-10? 2-Can i use a 0-90 and what would that do since it is reversed the ranges are different? If anyone has answers I sure would appreciate including possible alternatives or where to obtain a 90-10. I need to find out asap to either repair or order custom tank. THanks.....

Hey there- Just inherited a '76 280z from my elderly (83) father. Of course the clock isn't working and hasn't for 15 years or so. But I also noticed the voltage gauge was almost pinned at the right of the gauge. I read the forums about bad voltage regulators, etc., so I went out and tested at the battery with a multimeter. The battery was reading 12+ with the car off. And a little more when running, and topped out at 13.7 or so when the car was held at a steady 2500 rpm. Okay, so relief there. Then I found a post about adjusting the gauge with a screwdriver from the back. This allowed me to move the needle from dead right, but the range of the adjustment wasn't near enough to get the needle where it should be. So thinking there was a short I disconnected the gauge and used the multimeter to probe the leads running into the gauge. Same reading as battery. And that's when I noticed something strange. The voltage gauge was reading a positive 6-7 volts or so while disconnected. And not coincidentally, that is almost exactly how far off it is at the other end when connected. So the gauge won't "zero". I took it out of the bezel and it looks like a very simple analog gauge. I can understand why when power is applied it is deflected to the right. But I don't understand what would cause it to float above it's little bump stop when there is no power running to it at all. And it's not frozen there. While handling the gauge it freely bounces around, and when I had it out of the bezel, I could easily push it over to the left with my finger. Any help would be appreciated. Tai