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My current head took a dump, and I'm badly in need of a replacement! Looking specifically for E31, N42, or E88 heads. Located in Southern Cali, Carlsbad, San Marcos Area. Thanks!

Trying to remove the head of my n42/n42 the bolt circled in green snapped on me with one thread showing on the piece removed. Which means it should be below the block surface and not preventing me from removing the head, right? The bolt with the blue arrow felt as though it was cross threaded all the way in, and now that I have it backed out as far as it will go it just continues to spin. Ive tried prying up on it while turning it, ive tried tightening it again, ive tried beating on it in frustration...right now I have vice grips on it trying to pull it out. I dont know if they put a long bolt in a short hole and it mushroomed out on thebottom and is preventing me from getting the head off or what. I have hit it with a rubber mallet and have a pry bar wrapped in paper towels inserted in the intake port trying to yank on it, but the darn thing wont budge. And yes, I have removed the two head to front cover bolts. Does anyone have any helpful advice?

My l28 n42/n47 will be needing a bit of head work soon, specifically a valve job. Wondering if there is anyone located in Washington that has any recommendations for a shop to go to have this done in the near future, probably around January/February. Western Washington would be preferable, I'm located near Olympia.

Have water in oil, cyls 2-6 fine, nr 1 plug wet, water in oil. Suspect it is head gasket but not sure. Do not have place to do head gasket nor tools, etc, so will have to pay to have done by local NAPA or such (use their head gasket set?) Have had work on truck done there, great place, mechanic i former Datsun shop. Est is 525 plus tax, is that reasonable? IF worse case is head cracked, what is real cost for replacement head. Need to go cheap as 73 on SS, so not a lot of spare cash. Thoughts? Have had 78Z for 25 years, used to do most work self, but back no longer accepts such things. Ole machine and I still run pretty good despite age.

I recently rebuilt the engine in my 1971 240Z. The relevant parts: L28 N42 block L24 E88 head (earliest "notched' chamber design) Overbore of 0.030" F54-type flat-top pistons from ITM Isky Racing Stage 2 cam (.480 lift, 280 duration, 232 @ .050 lift duration) New Schneider performance valve springs and hats New rocker arms and lash pads New oil pump for 81 ZX turbo engine As part of the machining the head got a valve job (head already had steel valve seats retro-fitted) and new valve guides. I'm running 91 octane gas (highest we have here in Utah; high altitude) and Valvoline VR1 racing oil. The new camshaft is internally oiled and I installed a new spray bar made for me by Captain Obvious on these forums. Everything in the block was assembled with Permatex's assembly lube while everything in the head got Isky's assembly lube included with the cam. All the bolts and nuts I could find a spec for got torqued to spec. When I first fired her up the radiator was open and had a hose constantly running water. I immediately brought the engine up to ~2000 RPM and let it run for 30 minutes while I monitored oil pressure and temperature. Temp was right in the middle of the gauge while oil pressure was about 80 PSI. She sounded great. A day or two later I took her out for the first drive. Engine revved nicely and was very responsive. I stayed in first gear initially, bringing the engine up to ~3000 RPM and then letting the engine brake the car to help seat the rings. I did this about 10 times, then took her out on the road. Just a minute or two after shifting into second a clunk sounded under the hood. I immediately pulled off the road, popped the hood. The gauges still read in the normal range, but the sound was markedly different and idle was terrible. I head back home when another clunk sounded. I immediately killed the engine and coasted to the side of the road. I tried cranking a few times, but the sound was wrong and the car wouldn't start. Through all of this, no smoke, no leaking fluids, and no extreme gauge readings. The next day I had the car towed home. I pulled all of the spark plugs; none of them show anything unusual and definitely no signs of collision. I pulled the valve cover; camshaft looks good and well-oiled and all friction surfaces appear to be mating nicely. However, the cam timing sprocket had slipped off the cam snout and was no longer engaged with the dowel on the snout. The sprocket hadn't fallen into the abyss of the front cover, but it was riding on the bolt. I didn't see oil at the top of the radiator, and no frothiness in the oil on the dipstick. I figure that the clunks I head were the cam timing sprocket slipping off. I must not have done the final torque to spec on the bolt as I thought I had. I can't turn the cam enough to engage hole 1 on the cam timing sprocket so it appears that the valves and pistons did run at least some interference. However, nothing on the top side of the head shows any signs of trauma. I'm pulling the head tonight and will be pulling the front cover and re-doing the timing this weekend. What specifically should I be checking? I figure the most likely damage is bent valves; what do I need to do to check for this? Any other advice?

I recently completed a compression check on my 1976 280z It's all original from what I was told when I bought the car... Engine Has 103xxx Miles on it... and the Last 3xxx I have driven. It hasn't had any major issues in the past that I am aware of, but I did have to reseal the fuel tank and clean out and replace a few fuel Injectors. Results: Cylinder Pressure ..............(Dry).....(Wet) 1 ... 130 ... 140 2 ... 120 ... 130 3 ... 80 ... 90 4 ... 110 ... 120 5 ... 120 ... 130 6 ... 110 ... 120 I don't Know what the pressure should be but, I'm pretty sure 80/90 on one cylinder isn't right. The car accelerates kind of slow and always has(its an old automatic transmission never really expected anything super amazing). It tops out at about 35/40mph(which isn't right I was getting to 70 on the highways before this issue). And It makes a Metallic clicking sound once it hits 3000-4000rpm. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Hello, My first major work on the car and I'm having trouble identifying the head. I noticed the car had a rebuilt engine since there was a tag saying so on the block. Attached is a few pictures. One of the head and another of the intake manifold. There is a N42 stamp on it but looking at other pictures of an N42 head this one appears to be different. HELP?! I don't want to purchase the wrong headers. As you can tell this looks way different than the pics on this auction item: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-ZX-Rebuilt-N42-Cylinder-Head-/400244055278?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d30679cee Last, I included a few pics of some damage to the head I noticed while pulling it off.. How bad of an impact would this have on my car? Would it cause abnormalities? Smoking? Funny, this all started with a head gasket replacement :/

as some of yall know, i overheated my 76 280 recently, and my machine shop tells me that the head is shot. now i'm shopping around for a new one, and i'm a little confused. my head is an N42. i've been led to believe that an N47 will fit my year and model too. what is the significance of these codes? what heads will fit my car? i'm also a little concerned about my block. the cylinders have some striation in them, and though my nail doesn't catch on them when i run my finger around a cylinder, it doesn't feel too smooth. i can't really afford to get them bored, but i don't want to get everything back together again to find out that the block needs service. should i be concerned about these striations, or are they typical?

Mine's warped beyond repair, says the machine shop. I have a spending limit of $400, max. edit: does anyone know if a P90 head will fit a stock '76 280? what is the significance of this number?