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View Advert 240Z Headlight Case with Trim Headlight case with wiring harness and chrome trim piece. Removed from a ‘71 California car. Advertiser Dennis123 Date 10/24/2021 Price $40 Category Parts for Sale  

Looking for steel headlight buckets - left & right. 240z

I have a 1974.5 Datsun 260Z. I Have completed the wiring upgrade from Datsun Dave and that was a nice improvement over the stock harness. Next step is replacing the sealed beams with an new option. I searched the forum for past threads but they all seemed to be at least a few years old. What seems to be the best option for an upgrade. I would the best value for my $ that is also reliable. As far as the H4 options I have looked at Hella and Cibie and can't really determine if there is a major difference in the quality of the light. I would appreciate your thoughts about any experience you have with these or other options. Thanks!

Hello all, I have dug through the old threads but cant seem to find anything that addresses testing the combination (dimmer) switch for the headlights on my '78 280z. I have narrowed down the problem to the switch, I think. Bulbs are good, fuses are good, continuity of circuit from the switch to the bulbs is good, even the ground return path (red with black stripe for low beam return path, red with white stripe for high beam return path). The headlight switch shown in in the picture has a white wire with red stripe that feeds constant power from the positive terminal of the battery (through fusible links first). When the dimmer switch for the headlights is in the high beam position, the switch completes the circuit when allowing the white with red stripe wire to feed power to the solid red wire which then goes on to the fuse box, and then splits into solid red (right headlight) and red with yellow stripe (left headlight). However, when the dimmer switch is in the low beam position, the solid red wire does not receive power since the rocker arm does not connect the white with red stripe wire (hot from battery) to the red wire as it does when in the high beam position. Is this how the switch is supposed to function? I already cleaned it thoroughly, contacts between rocker arm and pins are good. Any help would be greatly appreciated. [ATTACH=CONFIG]72653[/ATTACH]

I hate to ask this question since its been asked so many times before, but I tried the other solutions and they did not work. When I bought the car, both the low and high beams worked fine. The day I got it home, the left headlight had gone out and a few days later the right headlight followed. The amp meter needle bounces when I switch on the low beams (parking lights) but no longer does anything between the low and high beam settings. Literally every other light in the car works except for the headlights. I did some searching and other people who had the same problem as me either found a broken connection under the steering wheel or had a bad switch, so I cleaned the switch, checked all the connections under the steering column and I couldnt spot any problems. This connector was too hot to handle after I tested all the lights and left the lights on the high beam setting for a while(pulled it apart as much as my fingers could handle before taking the picture: According to the FSM it connects a ton of stuff, but after pulling it apart, I did not notice anything odd with the individual connections and everything looked very clean. After putting everything back together, the plug no longer heats up, but still no headlights. Did my headlights just die out? Is there something I overlooked? Here is the album that has all the pictures of my car and the pictures from around the steering column: https://picasaweb.google.com/flyingaero/Datsun260Z I purchased these lights from eBay to replace the old ones, but I would like to see if I can solve the headlight problem before putting in higher power lights and a headlight relay harness. Any idea how I would get the halos to work? The knowledge of electronics I had does not translate to inside the car like I thought it would

Okay so I have a 74 260z that im looking to get as much torque and acceleration as I can. I have the basic 2.6 with dual webers on it with headers and all the emission junk removed. Ive replaced the starter, water pump, radiator fan clutch, upgraded the 4 speed to a 5 speed tranny replaced the brake booster, master cylinder, the clutch master and slave cylinder. What I have left to do is get the alternator rebuilt or replaced, replace the coil, get the headlight harness Dave makes, and replace the gas cap (the one I have doesn't seal and when i take left turns with a full tank of gas i loss my fuel) also I kinda want to upgrade to a stage 2 cam and redo the differential to get some serious torque... Unfortunately I dont know what I already have... havent checked but what I would like to know is what would upgrading the cam and changing the gear ratio do for me? and how or what do i need to do or get to achieve the most get up and go of the line?

Well folks, here's my first post. I've spent the last two hours trying to find an answer to my wiring issue and another 2 trying to diagnose it. So when all else fails, get some help from those who have LOTS of experience. 1977 280Z. PO "fixed" the combination switch for the headlights. After my drive home (lights off) I realized that they didn't work. I noticed the Red wire FSM says it runs to the fuse box, I think, was off. I put my finger over it and pressed it back onto the connection and it the lights turned on. A month later I'm finally getting to the issue of soldering it back on. I soldered the connection back together on it's pin. I turned the lights on and they work fine, out of curiosity I touched the connection and it's heating up, hotter than my finger can handle. I didn't let it sit like that for long and checked the other connections, for heat while the running lights were on. Nothing else was even hot, or warm. I double checked the connection. It's not touching any wires, housing, etc. Checked the fuse box, no burned out fuses. I suck at electrical issues (next semester I'll be signing up for that class) but from what I can see, doesn't look like there's anything too out of the ordinary. Recent electrical fixes are as follows. Headlights (New, PO installed them) Short on Black and Green ignition wire (jumped to passenger side connection before it connects to the 8 or 12 pin connection. (PO did this but I had to clean it up). New Pos and Neg battery cables. Starter wire that goes to the solenoid. (PO soldered them half a$$ so I cut, cleaned, crimped and wrapped them). A picture is worth 1000 words. Attached is the pic of my crappy soldering job and the combo switch that's problematic. Thanks in advance!!! I've read some really awesome threads and learned a lot so far but have a long way to go.

So I feel dumb for asking such a simple question. But how and the hell do you change the headlights on any Datsun 240-280z? its very hard for such a simple thing! The way I tried to do it was: Removing dust/mud guard thing from inside the front fender wheel well. This allows me to get to the 4 Hex head Screws. After taking out all 4 screws I then push the headligh in towards the wheel so I can remove the 3 Bezel srews to the headlight. Then Taking that off and the the headlamp itself. But there must be an easier way. The FSM just outright baffled me. So please help for a new guy like me to the S30 chassis!