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Hey Team I have spent a lot of time on this forum and i want to say thank you all so much this is an incredible community. I have hit a brick wall and looking for a little help. Background story; I'm helping a friend of mine fix his 280z with 30,000 miles on it all original. Car has been garage kept all its life. Really really well taken care of. Apparently some one A-hole mechanic tried before me and failed miserably and i don't know what he/she messed up or touched. After them the car didn't even start. Fixed that issue. (FACE PALM) ?‍♂️ When you try to start the car it tries to start but never does on its own. If you give it gas than the car starts but it is runs rough(motor shaking). Have to keep the gas paddle pressed in just a little to keep it running. Car smokes white/bluish smoke from the tail pipes. (running rich) ( Gas smell). Changed the oil after the previous Mech worked on it smelled like gas was in it. Did a double flush much better now. Things i did and tested on the entire car: Spark Plugs - New Spark Plugs Wires - New Battery - New Battery Terminals - Cleaned Distributor cap - Cleaned and polished Dizzy - Cleaned and polished Pick Up - Adjusted to correct distance from roller according to 0.08in or 0.2mm Distributor Vacuum - Good Ignition Coil - NEW (built in resisters original ceremic resistor was missing) (https://www.holley.com/products/ignition/ignition_coils/street/super_stock/parts/8140C) Fuel Pressure - 22-25psi in when engine is off, while the car is running at low rpm 30psi+ ( 700 to 1k) Smoke test - No leaks AFM - Refurbished still sealed was installed last month AFT Idel screw - Did not mess with Throttle Body Screw - NO EFFECT when turning clock or counter clock Electrical - 12V all over from Body, Engine, - All good Ground Connectors - Clean Coolant Temp Sensor - Ordered Arriving tomorrow (CANT IMAGINE ITS THE REASON) Timing - Seems good 10 degrees of from original zero marking Cylinders Compression Test - 125 + on all Cylinders Injectors connections - look good Injectors - listen to them with stethoscope sound health strong tick HELP!!!? Thank you again for reading. I will be testing tomorrow.

I need help, im trying to restore a 240z. The engine I currently have is the original one but I was gifted a 5 speed transmission, l28 engine and Weber carbs. I just need help with assembly. I've been doing some research and I have a basic idea but here are some questions I have. Are the crankshaft and other pulleys interchangeable with current engine and new l28? Does fuel line material matter? Is there anything else I need to replace in order to complete the swap?

Hello, this is my first topic and I would like some help on my current project. I recently bought a 71’ 240z and I am planning on engine swapping an L28 w/ 4 speed that I also plan to turbo in the near future. I have a couple questions. 1. What driveshaft would I use for this conversion. Would I use a 240z driveshaft or should I use the 280z driveshaft? (I’m not sure if my Z is series 1 or 2 at the moment) 2. When turbo charging an NA L28 what components should I upgrade and what additional parts do I NEED. I’m on a tight budget so don’t tell me I need the most expensive parts. (Have a $1500-$2000 budget for the engine)

Just recently bought a 280z and was trying to get it up and running again but ran into a few problems. I'm getting no spark to the engine. I have replaced the ignition coil as the previous one did not carry resistance. Also the distributor rotor spins and the connections do not seem to be corroded. But still no spark to the engine. When hooking up a spark plug tester I'm getting no light which I am told means a ignition system issue. My last resort is purchasing an ignition control module but, ya know, it's expensive. Would like your guys' take on this. Any help is appreciated. And btw it cranks and everything. Nothing timing related, she's trying her hardest.

Stunning Body Style, which was how Nissan originally designed the 240z. However the safety laws in the United States became stricter and the 240z was only built as a Fastback with a hatch (that commonly leaked in the rain and caused many 240zs to rust out in the back). Fiberglass kits were sold years ago to turn the 240z into a convertible. This is one of those cars. Originally sold in San Diego, it went to Utah. I bought it 10 years ago off Craigslist. During that time I got it running and made it safe to drive. It is registered legally in California. Because it is a 1973, it does not require a Smog Certificate ever. This car has the L28 (280z) engine with its matching 5-speed transmission. It has the stock SU Carburetors with the stock air cleaner and electronic ignition. It has a brand new super high-output Optima Yellow Top battery. The interior is gutted. It has rust in the center of the car underneath (not inside) but is completely clear with no rust at all from (and including) the firewall forward and from the back of the seats rearward. If you want to replace the frame rails then here is where you purchase new ones http://baddogparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1 . The body has bracing to strengthen it throughout. There is a front upper strut tie bar. The previous owner made a lattice brace to tie the rear struts for structural strength. The fiberglass kit does not allow easy access and I would have modified it. With the weight of the Fastback metal removed this car, unmodified, is faster than most 240zs. It is right at the point where someone needs to complete this project. I have decided to not complete the project that I have started on this because I wanted to make this my Daily Driver. I do not want to sell it but it is too far away to complete the project, so I have decided to go in a different direction. This car will only be available during this month. Next month I will not need the money for my next purchase and then it will never be for sale again. If you have ever wanted something that nobody else has then this is your car. It starts and runs perfectly. Headlights work. Brakes are stock and work fine. It is wicked fast and stunning.

Rebuilding an f54 block and p79 head, only have two questions I haven't really been able to find an answer too. Probably simple questions. I"m looking for main bearing studs for the 83 f54 block and all the bolts I can find say 70-78 which would be an N42 block, right? Will those studs fit the f54 block? I was hoping to use arp hardware for the main studs, rod bolts, and head studs. Also, I'm going to be doing the "high compression mod" for the p79, which involves shaving the head .080" , shimming the cam towers .080" (which I found proper shims for on datsunspirit.) running n47 valves, which I have, that are .080" longer, and shimming the valve springs by .080". I read about this on datsunzgarage, and he mentions that the valve springs come with a .040" shim from factory, and to add two more. I can't for the life of me find those anywhere. Does anyone who has done this or knows about it know what I should use to accomplish this? He specifically says not to use washers, I assume because the metal is too soft or something. Additionally, having a little bit of trouble finding oversized flat top pistons in stock anywhere. Datsunspirit has them listed on his website as out of stock, I'm sure if I contacted him about buying some he could get a hold of them for me.

Hey everyone, this is my first time posting here on the forums. I've poked around and read on here and a few other sites for a couple of years now and have finally gotten around to making an account. Majority of my problems I've been able to solve either by reading on here or in one of the manuals but I've come across a bit of problem. I own a 1981 280zx 2+2gl N/A 5spd, over this last weekend I started tearing the top end of my engine apart to have head work done. I have the car torn down at a friends house and his dad is really wanting the car gone so I need to hurry up, figure it out, and wrap it up, please help me! I have no prior experience with cars or mechanical work so this is all new to me and I'm still learning a lot, please forgive me for any ignorance or lack of knowledge/understanding, I really appreciate any and all of the help you guys have to offer and look forward to your recommendations and responses! I've gotten everything torn down to just the head now, my problem is I can't remove the head. It is sealed tight to the block. I've removed all 14 of the head studs and the 2 small front cover bolts. There is nothing that could be holding it on, I've given it a once over a million times and a half to make sure I wasn't missing something and throwing the towel in for nothing. The last head stud to come out broke in the block on the driver side in the middle of the engine, about a cm or so was left sticking above the thread. From what I've read this shouldn't stop the head from coming up and out so I'm under the impression there must be something creating a really tight seal on the head gasket. I'm guessing it's either rust and corrosion, fusion from overheating, or the K-Seal copper head gasket leak stop I had sadly used, probably the latter. So far I've tried wailing on all sides of it with a rubber mallet, pulling, pushing, and yanking with all my might stopping just before I give myself a hernia lol, and soaking all the edges and head stud holes in PB Blaster and WD-40 Penetrating Oil. I've read a number of articles so far recommending a variation of ideas and would really appreciate any and all of your guys input, advice, feedback, and help. Please share this with anyone you might know who can help. So far I've seen the following recommendations; use a few wood wedges in between the block and head to slowly and evenly pry the head off (what type of wood? how wide, tall, long, and thick? what degree of angle?), use a screwdriver and slide it in between the block and head to pry it off (could lead to potential head damage), use a 2x4 on the sides and hit it with a big ol' hammer, use a propane torch to heat up the area the broken stud is and also areas suspected of corrosion/fusion (could lead to warping or other problems if i'm not mistaken), use a long pry bar or pole in one of the intake runners on the head (could bend/damage the head because it's aluminum), stuff a bunch of rope into piston 1 and 6 then turn the engine over and use the cylinder head and rope to push the head off (I don't know the first thing about timing so this option makes me really nervous, I don't want to move the pistons without the cam sprocket and timing chain connected because I wouldn't know how to re time it or where to begin), use a high pressure compressor on the spark plug hole (I don't have access to a compressor), or use a engine hoist/lift attached to the head and bounce it tell the head comes off of the bottom end (I don't have a hoist/lift and have jack all for money so renting one isn't an option). A number of those ideas leave me very weary about the damages or problems that could follow and the other ones I feel incapable of acquiring/doing or simply feel it wont cut it, I will probably be trying a number of the above ideas anyways throughout the week and following weekend none the less. If any of you have recommendations, comments, or ideas please feel free to drop a reply, PM me, or shoot me an email, any and everything helps, I would really appreciate it, thanks guys! Also if any of you are in the San Diego area and open to giving a fellow z enthusiast a hand please let me know, I can buy you some beers and food for your time or whatever's clever. Again I can't express enough how much I appreciate any and all of your guys help, thanks in advance for your time and help! - Noah M (Word block dissected by Zed Head)

Trying to remove the head of my n42/n42 the bolt circled in green snapped on me with one thread showing on the piece removed. Which means it should be below the block surface and not preventing me from removing the head, right? The bolt with the blue arrow felt as though it was cross threaded all the way in, and now that I have it backed out as far as it will go it just continues to spin. Ive tried prying up on it while turning it, ive tried tightening it again, ive tried beating on it in frustration...right now I have vice grips on it trying to pull it out. I dont know if they put a long bolt in a short hole and it mushroomed out on thebottom and is preventing me from getting the head off or what. I have hit it with a rubber mallet and have a pry bar wrapped in paper towels inserted in the intake port trying to yank on it, but the darn thing wont budge. And yes, I have removed the two head to front cover bolts. Does anyone have any helpful advice?

Im looking for cast flattops to rebuild my 83 f54/p79, having a hard time finding ones that arent forged but I stumbled upon these. It says theyre for 75-79s but as far as I can tell those were the same as the pistons in the f54 block. Can anyone see any reason these wouldn't work or if I shouldn't buy from this source? https://zcardepot.com/engine/engine-rebuild/piston-set-of-6-pistons-l28-020.html?search=piston

My l28 n42/n47 will be needing a bit of head work soon, specifically a valve job. Wondering if there is anyone located in Washington that has any recommendations for a shop to go to have this done in the near future, probably around January/February. Western Washington would be preferable, I'm located near Olympia.

HI guys, I need your help. I've been searching the whole web (almost) and still don't know more than before I started my search. I want to swap my L28 flywheel/clutch to a 240mm unit. I use a stock 4-speed gearbox (out of my 240z). I've read that the 280z 2+2 as well as later 280zx turbo cars use a 240mm flywheel. However, if I look up the flywheel at rockauto, I always end up finding the same (225mm) flywheel for all models (240z-280zx), even though it says 280 2+2: Rockauto I also heard a SR20DET clutch + some other flywheel could work.. If someone had a parts number or a list of all required parts for a swap..that would be super awesome!! Thanks!

Hello everyone I'm Lance. As you may saw earlier I bought a 240z with a L28 in it( The owner didn't even tell me he have a L28 in it until the car has been delivered all the way across America). Now the engine is out and apart and I'm ready to rebuild it. This engine is a N42 block with dished pistons and I'll guess it's a early one since the number stamped is small. It's got a E88 head and 3-screw SUs which I believe came with this car in 71. I'm not sure about the specs of the parts but it seems pretty stock to me. Anyway I have completely disassembled the engine and the block looks fine except those tiny tube inside coolant passage is broken (I removed coolant plugs and there's pieces of rusted metal so I cleaned it and saw this). If that's ok I guess I'll go get the rebore and honing done, as well as a new set of 280z valve and new flattop pistons. I might regrind the camshaft and make the duration longer. This engine is for daily driver so I don't want to be too aggressive. What are the things I need to worry about? I've done quite some research and bought a couple books. Throw some questions and advices at me so I can make sure I'm doing everything right. I'll post some Pics later.

Dyno results (flywheel) for an L28 prepared for rallying - plenty of torque for street driving too. some weights and spring rates too. Combined DYNO, Weights, Spring, Damper files.pdf

Hi all, This is pretty much my first time on a forum apart from a short time on rotary car club, so please excuse me if I do things a little wonky starting off. Anyway, I absolutely love s30's and intend on rebuilding one in the near future. I'm here to try and get started. My plans have changed over time from an ls swapped 300zx to a 350sbc swapped s30 to just realizing I wanted to retain the L platform in these cars and just go for lightweight, and great throttle response and handling with modest power. So I'm set on an L28 and after a bit of research here actually have come to the conclusion I'm looking for a p54 block with an n42 head in need of rebuild, or at least clean up and assembly. The problem is, I can't seem to find anything near me that seems like a reasonable price. The best thing I've found right now is a guy selling "l28 blocks with dished pistons" for 350 and a range of heads from 500-800. He seems to have a large warehouse full of parts and I will probably contact him with what I'm looking for. But I figured it would be worth a shot to hop on a forum that seems to be filled with nice, helpful people and see if anyone has these in the area(washington state, not afraid to drive). If you have any information feel free to send it my way, and thank you for your time. I hope to be on here troubleshooting in the near future, working on the Z. (:

Hello all from Australia, Long time browser, first time poster here because I finally can't find the information I'm looking for! First off, my name's Adam and I have a 1973 240z which is currently running a standard L28, N42 head/block combo, with brand new triple 45mm OER carburetors, and Trust headers to a twin 2" exhaust system. I have just installed a new set of OER carbs I purchased from Japan and am having difficulties sorting out the idle/low speed cruise setting. Bit of details into the setup, 45mm carbs 34mm venturis #190 air correctors (not yet tested to see if these are the best) #130 mains #60 idles #40 pump nozzle #1.8 needle valve 3.5psi fuel pressure from the mechanical fuel pump into Holley regulator 31mm fuel level using the OER level gauge. Idle screws are setup so that the first progression hole is just 100% covered looking through the brass cap/inspection hole. Carbs are balanced the best I can using a unisyn. I have a wide-band O2 sensor probe in the tail pipe. I am running 98 octane fuel. Timing is at 15 BTDC with no vacuum advance connected. Valve clearances have recently been adjusted. Now, onto the problem I am having.. Driving with the #60 idles installed, 1 full turn of the mixture screw turned out, slow acceleration and cruise is very rich, 10.5 and 11.5 AFRs respectively. I also have #50 idles on hand which I have installed to try and improve the current rich scenario and I cannot even get them to idle. With mixture screws out 1.5 full turns (recommended range is only 3/4 to 1 full turn), they cannot idle on their own, only when I blimp the throttle which I believe is activating the pump jets. With the #50s installed, AFRs are off the scale in the lean area. They can't idle let alone drive. My question is, is going down from a #60 to a #50 idle jet that big of a jump that the car can no longer idle on its own? Or is there something wrong with my idle screw setup? OER offer a #55, but I would like to double check with the experts out there first before spending that money. Any help would be appreciated. And please let me know if I am missing some information, I tried to be as detailed as possible. Thanks, Adam

Hello all I'm a first time poster here. Picked up my 1976 280z auto last week and began picking up turbo parts. I plan on running a holset hx35. Now I've gathered: P90 head, which is missing a rocker arm. This will get machined and ported/polished. Megasquirt 1 extra. Not sure what sensors I need to pick up that my l28 doesn't already have on it. Also picked up an intercooler and piping. Now I know I need a tps off of a 240sx but have yet to find one. Is there any other options? To complete the list I believe all I'll need is: BOV, wastegate, turbo manifold, supra injectors (what year?), and I'll do the downpipe and 02 sensor bung myself

Alright so this is my first Datsun. Bought it about two weeks ago and how I assumed I got a deal on it I was quickly reminded of why I hate buying modified cars. I'll explain it like this: It's a 73 240z, I bought the car from a guy who said that the car had already been l28et swapped. He told me it used to run and that the cam gear had sheared off the previous motor and that he had just put this motor in he found in a savage yard from a 83 280zx turbo, and explained that he didn't have time for it anymore because he had another project he was too busy working on. I quickly looked over the car. saw it had a P90a head so I figured sure its a turbo head atleast, the car was low on rust, and the man seemed honest enough. Well I got the car home on a trailer and started looking over everything. Started well enough but would act weird above 2500 rpm. I started look at everything and realized that the O2 wire wasn't going anywhere. So I started looking for the male plug in for 02 sensor. Can't find it. I start wondering if I'm blind and start looking up diagrams to see if I can find what color wire it is to see if somehow the wire got placed somewhere else by accident and somehow itd still start. I finally got frustrated enough to check the ECM and found the tag: Part no.: A11-600-000 Lot no.: 5Z12 For: L28 Boom. I look it up and from what I can tell the ECM is for a 75-78 NA l28 and then I start looking and come to find out these don't have O2 sensors (never had a car that wasn't carbed and didn't have a oxygen sensor)?? This is where I start to get lost. I am beginning to think that the car was a l28 swapped car when he bought it. no turbo and this guy just threw a turbo l28 engine in it thinking he could just do that. plug everything in and "yay, I've got a turbo car" when he realized lifes not that easy he sold it. Okay so.... That ECM Part no. is that specifically for a 75-78 l28 non turbo car? Did they have oxygen sensors or not? How can I tell what the AFM is for? Whats the differences in the harness between a 75-78 l28 non turbo harness and a 83 l28et? If this is a AFM and a ECU for a NA could I just throw a header on this engine and call it a day or would this be hell to make work with this ECU or what? Anything could be helpfull. I know this is a very open ended question in a way and I realize I am a noob and I did search but I am so confused with what I have at this moment I'm alittle lost on what even to search for... Thanks for anything.

I've got 72 240z that i bought about 7 months ago. I put in an l28 from a 280z with about 50,000 original miles and so everything is hooked up and I've been dieing to get this thing running seeing as it's my first car, but the thing wont start. even spraying gasoline into the carbs and sucking fuel up from the take isn't working. I still haven't tuned the engine yet so that could be a problem, but the one thing i'm not 100% sure on is the distributor. The manuals i have show which wires go where on the cap but there is no real reference point so i'm not sure if the wires are in the right ones. so if anyone could show a picture with labels for each wire going into the cap that would help.

I am sure it has been beaten to death, but I need to ask it," what do I need to do to put a L28 out of a 1977 280Z into my 1972 240Z?" My '72 has the factory L24 with the SU's, a 3-2 header with a cobbled up exhaust. I found a '77 280z car with it's fuel injected L28, manual trans drive train. My Z has a 5 speed manual currently. I would like to keep the fuel injection on the L28, what do I need to do? I am new to Z cars, I bought my first today, I like the idea of the larger displacement of the L28, I also like the reliability of fuel injection and ditching the SU carbs on my 240 sounds good. Please help, I am curious about wiring, fuel system, exhaust....clutch....whatever else you can think of. Thanks everyone.

Ive had my 240z running now for around a year now and it has been doing pretty well. I have a L28 currently and within the past week i noticed a lack of power, more exhaust fumes coming into the car and it was running roughly. The first thing I did was pull each spark plug out to see a change in rpm and Ive concluded that when I remove the #1 spark plug closest to the front of the car there is no change at all. I checked and saw that there was a spark jump, and I looked at the spark plug and it didn't look too bad. my head gasket has been leaking a little since i put the engine in which was probably a year or less ago. could that have anything to do with it. Any help would be much appreciated so i don't have to take it into a shop and pay lots of cash.

I just got a 240z about 8 months ago during the summer. I put a l28 in and it has something like 36k original miles. I am only a Junior in High school and of coarse I have to think all the possibilities of the car. I'm sure some people know of the manga called "Wangan Midnight". I don't plan to put those fender flares, but someday with either this car or another 240z if i get one in the future I would like to bore out the engine to 3.1 and add a twin turbo. I doubt i'll have the skills for awhile to even remotely do any of the work all i've learned so far is taking off fuel injection and adding carbs and small stuff but how much would something like that cost including a roll cage and strut bars and anything to prevent the car from being destroyed from intense warping?

I got my 240z running with the pretty brand new 36000 original miles l28. So the thing isn't licensed at all and I'm a junior in high school who still hasn't bothered to get his license yet. I took a real chance but I had to do it. I gave my friends rides around my neighborhood and the thing is really out of tune so it eats up gas so fast. by the like fourth time driving a friend around the car just stops and I keep trying to start it and it goes for like a sec then stops. I got it to the bottom of my street and then the battery was dead from trying to start it too much. Well thank god I've got great friends who are willing to push it up a good sized hill. Totally worth it.

I have a 240z and I recently put an l28 in and replaced the fuel injection for carbs. I have everything hooked up, and I got a new fuel filter and I got a new mechanical fuel pump, but when i start the car I am not able to start it. When I spray gas into the carbs and suck up some fuel through the fuel line I am able to start it for like 3 seconds but I am not seeing any gas come up through the fuel filter. What should I do at this point? Could there be a problem with something in the engine that is preventing the pump to work? does the l24 have something that an l28 doesn't have that allows it to use the mechanical pump instead of an electrical? Any help would be much appreciated.

So for the past month i've been trying to fix my 240z engine. It is the original L24 and it was seized up. I put some PB blaster into the cylinder walls then tried to turn the engine manually but nothing moved. The damage is a little more than I thought at first. Now I am looking to get a rebuilt engine. Normally, what is the price for a rebuilt L24;L26:L28 cost?

Hi there, I've just finished building a new four barrel carburettor for my next development phase on my L28. The Holley originally started off as a 'run of the mill' 450 cfm (list 4548) vacuum secondary four barrel. Since then, it has been extensively modified and upgraded to suit my requirements. Some of the features it has are: 4 corner idle mixture adjustment Downleg booster venturis Electric choke Reworked metering blocks to include adjustable power valve channel restriction and idle/off idle circuits via screw in jets Percy's adjustable metering blocks for primary and secondary main fuel Centre hung fuel bowls Quick change secondary spring unit and A blended 600 cfm 4 barrel base plate. The next phase of engine development includes a new cylinder head where I'm concentrating on improving low engine speed torque. The head will have a much better quench around the valves and will boost my compression from 8.3 to 9.9 to one. The ports are round exhaust with liners like the P79 heads and the intake ports are smaller than the N42. (30mm's versus 34.7mm's). The intake manifold is an older candilabra single carburettor type, Nissan code E30. This manifold will be adapted to suit the Holley carburettor and it has 30mm runners, matching perfectly the Y70 head which originally came off an L20A ET engine in Japan. The head is currently at a headshop being reconditioned with guidelines not to touch the ports other than to clean the bowl region and improve the valve seat areas for better flow. A special smooth radius valve job will be tried instead of the usual 5 angle. It came with strong recommendation so I said yes to that. The head should be ready fairly soon. I'm very curious (and committed!) to giving this a go. I will be doing a series of dyno runs soon to establish my baseline at the moment and then gradually change over to the new parts to see their effect on performance. Remember, my aim is to improve torque at low rpms, so talk about big ports, valves and camshafts may not be what is needed, unless you can convince me otherwise! Sure, I would still like it to rev to say 5000rpm, but it is what happens when you change to the next gear higher that interests me, what happens at between say 2000 to 4000 rpm's! Read Torque Monster! Your thoughts?