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Hello and thank you taking a look at my issue. I've just finished turbocharging my NA 1978 and have been running into many issues. Firstly, the car will crank for days but never starts, I've narrowed it down now to spark. I have disconnected the transistor ignition unit as it has an e12-80 module and distributor from a 1980 zx, with a new cap, rotor, and aftermarket ignition coil. Verified rotor is spinning. On the ignition module I have C going to Negative post on coil and B going to Positive. I have the Blue/Black wire & Blue wire connected to Negative on the coil, and Black/White connected to Positive. (There's a skinny white/black wire that I have no clue what to do with, can't find anything on it). I also have a wire connected to a post the distributor going to chassis ground (that wire got a little warm while trying to start the car, strange, disconnected and still no start.) The coil is getting 12~VDC at both posts with key at ON, and 0.00 with key at OFF. Any leads would be greatly appreciated, just want to drive this thing again 😔

I couldn’t find this via a search so I thought I would share my findings the thread size for the fitting that leaves the turbo oil t-block (originally hardline to the turbo) is: m12x1.0 I used a m12x1.0 to -4an adapter and works perfect for my turbo oil feed line. cheers!

Parting out an original 280zxt couple auto Ttop. Engine runs but alternator is bad. the only thing on the car thats not being sold are the CV axles and R200, the rest is up for grabs. Or buy the whole donor parts car for $2000 with rearend and cv axle $1100 Engine is a running turbo motor with the F54 block and P90 solid head. Trying to sell the set up as a whole from computer, wiring, basically everything to get the car running. $100 auto transmission $350 Snowflake wheels with tyres with lots of meat left. $200 Tail lights $400 280zx Front and back struts great for 510 guys to modify $150 gas tank $150 Gauges $250 All Glass $100 Ttop $200 Turbo hood $150 Headlight bucket with sprayer nozzle $150 Front bumper and lower valance Anything else I didn't post let me know and I can get you a price. I can part engine as along as I have people buying majority of the parts. I only have this car for a limited time before its gone. PM me for any questions but if my inbox is full email at messimotor@yahoo.com All parts are located in San Diego and can be shipped and buyer expense but picked up prefered. Cheers D

UPDATE 10/8/2017: Decided to make this my "build thread". Summary: I recently bought a 1978 280z with an L28ET swapped into it. The owner did the swap in 2005 and left the car almost completely stock otherwise while driving it 1k-2k miles per year. It is a perfect base car for a fun project! My goal is to make it drive/handle like a modern car and eliminate any weird noises. I don't know much about the Z's or older cars in general, but I have done a lot of suspension work with my Nissan Xterra and several motorcycles. Once I freshen it up and get suspension and looks down, I'll likely start adding to engine power. Key: [x] = Done [-] = In progress [ ] = Want [x] = Removed Exterior: [ ] Fix rust spots! [ ] Add rear spoiler [ ] Add front spoiler [ ] Add some cool decals or get a new paint job Interior: [ ] Fix/cover split seams in top of dash (use this cover?) [ ] Get new shift knob (the old one has the gear indicator thing broken off) [ ] Fix missing dash lighting when lights are on Wheels/Tires/Brakes: [+] 4Runner four-piston front brake calipers with stainless steel brake lines [ ] Disc brakes conversion in the rear with stainless steel brake lines [-] 205/60/R15 Sumimoto Tires [-] 15" wheels - XXR 557 (15x7 4x114.3 +15mm offset) [-] 1" (25mm) wheel spacers to fit wheels (final offset after spacers is -10mm) [x] Stock 14" wheels Suspension/Steering: [-] Stance Coilovers with Camber Plates and 5k/4k spring rates rear/front [-] Adjustable front control arms (techno toy tuning) [-] New tension rods (techno toy tuning) [-] Adjustable rear lower control arms (techno toy tuning) [-] Aluminum steering coupler (techno toy tuning) [-] New tie rod ends [-] New swaybar bushings in the front [ ] Power steering! Engine/Driveline/Exhaust: [-] Rebuild half shafts with new u-joints [ ] Mandrel bent 3" exhaust and downpipe [ ] One of those mufflers with 2 vertical pipes coming out the back (I like the look) [ ] Upgraded turbo + an intercooler + boost controller [ ] Megasquirt II (instead of stock '82 ZX ECU) Other:

Ok, I haven't done a valve adjustment since I bought the car which was roughly 9 months ago. I purchased it from someone who had been working on it and it was in pretty good shape. Today I go to adjust the valves and when I lift the valve cover, I notice the Pivot lock nuts are much bigger than any manual said they should be. I haven't been able to find an L28et that looks similar to mine with the cover off. Maybe I'm not looking at it right but I thought I would ask before I started loosening the nuts. Also there aren't two nuts like the manual says, just that one lock nut. I also tried to get the feeler gauges through just to see If there was any clearance. and I couldn't get even the 0.0015" feeler through with the cam lobe pointing straight up. Is there something I'm missing? (another note: The lock nut on there is bigger than 22mm, which was the biggest wrench I had on hand)

First off, hello there, my name is Brad. I am new here... and yes this is another SHOULD I BUY THIS post so any advice would be greatly appreciated. I've been searching my local area and nearby states for a Z car (specifically pre 1979... no ZX). I am planning on doing a budget build and not a restoration. I will be going for the classic JDM look (fender mirrors, flairs etc.). I am a performance car enthusiast and currently daily drive a 2011 Subaru STi, however performance is not my end goal. I already have a great performance car so I want something that looks different for cruising and taking to some shows. I love the way the classic Z cars look, even stock they are gorgeous. This may upset purists but imperfections don’t bother me and this car will be far from perfect for some time. The imperfections are character and show history. That being said I don’t want a complete ROT project, as many don’t. After searching I found what I think is the best deal I’ve seen so far and plan on going to check it out today with CASH in hand but would love to hear some opinions and words of caution from those more experienced than I. Here is the ad: 1974 Datsun 260Z Turbo This car is just up the road so it’s a lucky find in my opinion. Some more information from the guy after talking with him and looking at pictures he sent me. - The floor pans are not rusted through, only surface rust. - The electrical issue is because he had someone else wire the car and they used the wrong harness. Everything works (lights, turn signals etc) just some of it is mixed up, like the wipers are turned on VIA the defrost button . So nothing major and something I will fix. - He checked the wheel wells and strut tower areas and said nothing was rusted through (I will confirm this) - The car was originally from Texas but spent 2 years in Connecticut, that’s where the little bit of rust came from. It now resides in Columbia, SC. I originally set out to find a carbureted setup to eliminate EFI and having to work with ECU/tuning. I currently do that on my STi but it can be tougher than making adjustments to a ye ol’ carb setup. However he said it runs great and has no issues so I shouldn’t have to touch the engine much at the moment. The only issue comes in when I do have to. Maybe someone can shed some light on this part, is it a good setup, easy or hard to work with and so on. I think that is the only thing holding me back at the moment (besides the obvious that I haven’t seen it in person yet). I know I’m forgetting some small details so I will update if I can think of anything. Thanks in advance!