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Hi I'm new to the site so i hope I am posting this in the right spot. I have a 1977 Datsun 280z that pops back thru the intake when you give it gas!!! I replaced all the injectors and gave it fresh tune up, but still runs like crap the fuel presure is 20-39 psi. I jumped the thermotime switch and it stopped popping thru the intake but makes it run to rich- black smoke DOES Anyone have any ideas? Thanks Steven

Alrighty lets get to it. car: 10/1972 240z with an L24 and an E88. completely stock engine. I have recently been able to get my car to move under its own power, but it seems that problems keep coming about. Yesterday while taking her out for another test drive she drove fine for about 1/8th of a mile then she started to sputter, i gunned it and once i got past 3kish rpms the car pulled like I was hoping this car would be capable of. but as i started a to do some normal driving, 2k rpm cruising and 3krpm shifting the car started to sputter, lean pop, and backfire again and again. brought her back into the drive way and started testing there. she revved fine and it seems that whatever the problem was it was gone. and then after i let it idle for awhile it came back. so i came back here and started looking at what to do. This is what I have done in hopes to stop the problem. cleaned both of the carbs, replaced gaskets where needed checked float - 10.31mm checked timing - 0deg set valve clearance - with engine warm .012 exhaust .010 intake checked carb air balance - unisyn at idle checked carb fuel - tried colortune on cyl. 1 and 5, but it kept acting up and resorted to the SU carb tuning tech on classiczcar checked timing again - 0deg, and jumps to 20+ when at high rev. then I let the car sit for a night because it was getting cold and damp. double checked all of my info and found that: the timing should be at 7-10 deg not 0, i should balance the carbs at 3k rpm not idle, and colortune at 3k rpm on cyl 2 and 5. started the car up this morning, in hopes that it would all be sorted out with the inproper set up, but it obviously wasn't. here is a vid of the first start up that pop at the end is both backfire and a lean pop. awesome. So I started to re-tune everything. timing now set to 8ish deg synced the carbs with unisyn, backed down all of the screws equally and set idle to 650-700 rpm. turned off the car, and then pulled the #2 plug looks normal, and they are less than 20 miles old. stuck the colour tune on and here is what it is at idle and then i set the idle to 3k and tuned it. movie doesnt show it well, but color that I achieved, bunsen blue with hints of orange. turned off the car and pulled #5 plug tuned the rear carb at the same rpm and finally got the same color that I got in the front. then I checked to see if my needles and nozzles were binding. the rear piston is a bit harder to pull up than the front, so I am planning on dunmping the ATF and using some 10w30. To see how the carbs were actually balanced I used the lifting pin to see how the engine ran on only 1 carb. from what I have read about the pins, the carbs look to be too rich, but according to the colourtune they are at their best. So meh. Then I checked to see how the car revved through the power band. All of the jumping around is me playing with the throttle. It seems that all of my problems were solved! So I took a photo of my temp gauge to show you all what "normal temp" is on the car, to see if that is what everyone else sees. and while i was doing that the car started to act up again. so i checked to see if both carbs were actually working, twice. and showed you the difference in nozzle richness. So yeah... I have no idea what is wrong. please someone give me some advice. The only thing that I think it could be are the needles and/or nozzles, but why would it only happen after the car was warmed up, or under load?