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hi all, i replaced the stock 280zx distributor by ( Mallory ) p/n 4563901. after connecting wires the car wont start. i noticed there is a spark going to the plugs but no signal going to the injectors!!! any help , drwaing, appreciated. note, mallory wires ( red - green- brown) , the brown wire lookl ike the ground. do i need to put adapter in between the mallory and the coil?? i heared the GM adapter is ok !! is this true please help payusup@hotmail.com thx

Alright guys so I was planning on using a Mallory MAL 2363901 distributor and pertronix in my 11/70 240z but I just got an email back saying that they're discontinued and sold out. Every other place I've tried online seems to be sold out as well. I'm thinking of going with the Mallory unilite with mechanical advance (no vacuum advance) coupled with pertronix and was hoping someone else here might have had success with it and can give me some info. I'm going to be installing triple mikuni carbs shortly and plan on keeping the ballast resistor and using a 1.5ohm coil as well. If someone has done this before and could share what model they are using it would be greatly appreciated! As a side note, I have looked into other options such as late model distributors and have decided that I want to go with a Mallory one and spend a little bit more. Thank you. Chris

I've been asked by many members and non members about my ignition set-up and after writing the info so many times, I figure it would'nt hurt to post the needed info here at CZCC. And now you can send this thread link to others who may be looking for the same info. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I typically put a lot of praise on the Unilite, versus the worn bearings and parts of the stock distributor. Changing the set-up from points to infra-red is always a great idea but it's like putting a New head on an Old block, the head can't perform optimumly because the pistons and rings are worn. The optical pick-ups of the Unitlite and the Pertronix are are basically the same but the the chassis and bearings of the Unilite were built to work in unison with the Mallory infra-red circuit board. So in short the Pertronix is a band-aid over an untreated, infected wound. Here's what I have in my 70' and everything works great. Not to mention that it's pretty easy to wire up. Mallory Unilite, Stock Ballast resistor, MSD 6A, MSD tach adaptor, Mallory Promaster Coil, stock tach. #1) The OEM tach was designed to work around 1.5 ohms, where as the Flamethrower puts twice the resistance in the circuit (3.0 ohms) and the tach strains under the resistance, therefore only working at half it's potencial.. (about 4000 RPM) on occasion #2) The wiring is pretty simple. I use male and female connectors, so that the MSD can be bypassed upon failure, if it should occur. The small red and white wire of the tach adaptor connect to the small red and white of the MSD 6A (and even the 6AL) I've attached a diagram of the wiring that should be pretty easy to follow. I also included a diagram of Just wiring the unilite w/o the MSD. On the Unilite.... Brown wire gets grounded to a clean grounding bolt (I use the bolt of the ballast resistor) Green wire connects to the white wire of the MSD and the tach adaptor Red wire connects to the datsuns green/white wire on the ballast resistor On the MSD.... Ground the Large Black wire close to the MSD unit. Large Red wire gets a (10 amp fuse) and goes to the battery. (draws 1 amp per 1000 RPM) small White to the white wire of the tach adaptor and they both connect to the green Unilite wire. small red to the small red of the Tach adaptor and they both go to the black/white wire that was connected to the stock coils (+) bolt Black and orange sleeved wires go to the Coil (black to (-) and Orange to the (+) The green and purple wires are NOT used, as they are for a crank type sensor. #3) Will this work on my stock 240Z tach? This all works on the Stock Tach. The Promaster coil is rated at 0.60 ohms but I've Never had an issue and I know for fact that the needle will swing to 8000RPM (My throttle stuck when I forgot to instal a return spring on the SU's after I installed them. OOPS #4) What are the part numbers and prices?? Mallory Unilite p/n 4763901 w/vaccum advance. $389 at Jegs and Summit Racing. MSD 6A (6200 series) $171 at Jegs and Summit Racing MSD 8910 Tach Adaptor $40 at both Jegs and Summit Racing Mallory Promaster Coil W/ correct Ballast resistor $82 at Jegs If the link does work, go to Jegs and type in promaster coil 29440 and make sure the picture shows the ballast resistor http://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/29440/10002/-1# I use nothing but NGK plugs (BP6ES) gapped at .060 and NGK Blue spark plug wires. You can pick up the plugs and wires from most auto parts stores. The plugs run about $2 a peice and the wires are around $20 to $35 http://www-b.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Nissan/240Z/NGK/Ignition_Wire_Set/19701973/W0133-1625833.html #5) Is it worth it?? Definately worth it. I installed the Unilite 3 years ago and haven't had to touch it once, other than to clean the brass tips inside the cap. I still have the same cap and rotor that came with the Distributor. The rotor has a removable brass arm that can be pulled and cleaned and reinstalled when needed. The total of everything NEW is about $720 before shipping but you now have part numbers and can research them and probably find them cheaper on eBay or elsewhere. I did'nt pay that much because I do a lot of Trade work which results in some great deals from friends and such. If anyone has pertinent info to add to this thread feel free. I did not however, write this thread to be debated or commented on. What you see is what you get, as all the info is true to the best of my knowledge and current as of 4/23/09 Additional charges for tax and shipping will and can be found on the above web-sites. MSD Unilite Promastr Ballast wiring.bmp Unilite Ballast wiring.bmp