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As part of replacing the failed brake booster on my 72, I chose to suction most of the fluid from, and remove the master cylinder from my brake lines. Didn't want to risk bending brake tubing. After the new booster is in place, is it necessary to bench bleed the master, or can I just install it and bleed the lines as normal? I'm only asking because if I should bench bleed, I need to secure some plugs to block the line connections. Thanks

I am slowly rebuilding a 1973 240z. I was getting leaking from a rear cylinder and a front caliper was not getting any fluid so I replaced both rear cylinders, new brake shoes, new front calipers and pads, and a new master cylinder. I bled the master cylinder first and then bled all four brakes beginning with the right rear using a vacuum bleeder as well as the traditional buddy system. I have checked over all the lines for leaks and have found nothing. No matter what I do I can not get a good solid brake without pumping them a couple of times. When I depress the brake pedal my brake light comes on. According to the manual this could indicate a pressure differential between my front and rear brakes. I can get my rear brakes to lock up but my front brakes always feel like they are barely working. Does anyone have an idea of what the problem could be? At this point about the only thing I have not replaced is the master vac, the NP valve and the warning light switch. I am very frustrated at this point as I have moved a lot of brake fluid through the system, replaced a lot of parts, bought a fancy vacuum bleeder that I am not impressed with and still don't have good brakes. I have taken the time to read many, many posts here. I have found some excellent advice but nothing that matches this problem. I am rebuilding this with my son for him to drive and I won't let him move it until I am positive he has great brakes. Any help would be greatly appreciated.