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Alrighty, Ive got a stock 1978 280z and I'm currently installing an MSD 6A and Blaster 2 coil into the car. After reading any and all forum posts on the topic I came to the conclusion that I would need an MSD Tach Adapter 8920 in order for the MSD box to Communicate to the EFI by upping it to 12v. All my wires are in place and I'm getting a good strong spark. I put a voltmeter on the purple wire coming out of the MSD tach adapter and I'm getting 12v. Only problem is that I'm getting no fuel. It must not be communicating with the EFI somehow. Here's my Setup. MSD 6A: Heavy Red goes to battery + Heavy Black is going to battery - Red is going to Black wire with white strip (Ignition Key Wire) Orange is connected to blaster 2 coil + Black is connected to blaster 2 coil - White is not being used, I do not have a points system Violet and Green are connected to the Magnetic Pickups (I was told it didn't matter which way, I put green to green and violet to red) MSD Tach Adapter 8920: White goes to Tach Output on MSD 6a box Black is ground wire Red is connected to Black wire with white stripe (so two reds and black with white stripe all connected) Violet is connected to the blueish green wire that was connected to the coil negative terminal. Summary: I don't know what the **** I did wrong. Someone please tell me.

My son has a 1973 240z with stock ignition, weber 40's and headers. We have purchased a MSD 6AL, Blaster 2 coil, and 1979 280Zx e12-80 distributor Does anyone have a good wiring diagram to use? After looking at the directions and searching the internet there seems to be a few ways to do this and we would like the Tach to work. It sounds like some folks use the 8920 tach adapter and some don't. Any help would be appreciated before we tackle the job. Thank you. Eric

My 280Z uses an MSD 6A ignition. I need to hook up the tachometer, but I don't know what to do. More specifically, the 6A has a grey wire that is related to the tachometer. I imagine the tachometer has some input wire that is looking for a specific voltage. My 6A is in my engine bay on the right side (near the relay box). Is there some convenient way for me to hook this up? I would prefer not having to run a wire through the firewall and splicing stuff onto my tach. Also, I do have the 8910 MSD module that is apparently required for correct functioning. Thanks! EDIT: Here is what I see in the relay box: http://imgur.com/a/0VyHN. I'm hoping I can use one of these. Thanks again!!

I am in information overload here and I am looking for setups that have worked for others. I have searched and searched and with all the info out there on all the Z sites I can't determine what actually worked under what circumstances. I mean seriously, you can prove and then disprove the theory of relativity within a post or two in some of these threads. The short of it is that I am in the process of connecting an MSD 6AL with MSD Coil to a 280ZX Distrubutor in a '72 240Z with the original tachometer. The more complete version: I recently picked up a somewhat used Rebello 3.2L with triple Mikunis and have already put it in place... along with replacing the entire driveline... ACT Clutch, T-5, STi R180 LSD, Wolf Creek Halfshafts. The ZX ignition module was not being used in the previous owners setup and it was running the MSD instead. The wiring for the MSD seems pretty straight forward... because there isn't a module the green/purple goes straight to the dizzy which is wired for it. The coil is straight forward. I "think" I need the 8920 Tach Adapter... but in a thread somewhere somebody was swearing up and down they were using the 8910... and then there is the 8910EIS. And in a few spots people are saying 8610, which MUST be a typo because that's CSB crank trigger kit. I'm pretty certain I will need one, but which? I remove the ballast right? Where do those wires end up? Aren't they going to the tach? Is this where the Adapter comes into play? Also, what is this about the ignition signal running through the Tach and if a wire somewhere is disconnected it won't start? I plan to connect the MSD up tomorrow and fire this baby up with or without the Tach, I just want to know that a solution is on the way. I've actually got a brand new Mallory Uni Lite in a box that will eventually find it's way on this motor, but I want to prove the engine works in this car with it's last known good setup before I start swapping parts. Thanks!

I've been asked by many members and non members about my ignition set-up and after writing the info so many times, I figure it would'nt hurt to post the needed info here at CZCC. And now you can send this thread link to others who may be looking for the same info. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I typically put a lot of praise on the Unilite, versus the worn bearings and parts of the stock distributor. Changing the set-up from points to infra-red is always a great idea but it's like putting a New head on an Old block, the head can't perform optimumly because the pistons and rings are worn. The optical pick-ups of the Unitlite and the Pertronix are are basically the same but the the chassis and bearings of the Unilite were built to work in unison with the Mallory infra-red circuit board. So in short the Pertronix is a band-aid over an untreated, infected wound. Here's what I have in my 70' and everything works great. Not to mention that it's pretty easy to wire up. Mallory Unilite, Stock Ballast resistor, MSD 6A, MSD tach adaptor, Mallory Promaster Coil, stock tach. #1) The OEM tach was designed to work around 1.5 ohms, where as the Flamethrower puts twice the resistance in the circuit (3.0 ohms) and the tach strains under the resistance, therefore only working at half it's potencial.. (about 4000 RPM) on occasion #2) The wiring is pretty simple. I use male and female connectors, so that the MSD can be bypassed upon failure, if it should occur. The small red and white wire of the tach adaptor connect to the small red and white of the MSD 6A (and even the 6AL) I've attached a diagram of the wiring that should be pretty easy to follow. I also included a diagram of Just wiring the unilite w/o the MSD. On the Unilite.... Brown wire gets grounded to a clean grounding bolt (I use the bolt of the ballast resistor) Green wire connects to the white wire of the MSD and the tach adaptor Red wire connects to the datsuns green/white wire on the ballast resistor On the MSD.... Ground the Large Black wire close to the MSD unit. Large Red wire gets a (10 amp fuse) and goes to the battery. (draws 1 amp per 1000 RPM) small White to the white wire of the tach adaptor and they both connect to the green Unilite wire. small red to the small red of the Tach adaptor and they both go to the black/white wire that was connected to the stock coils (+) bolt Black and orange sleeved wires go to the Coil (black to (-) and Orange to the (+) The green and purple wires are NOT used, as they are for a crank type sensor. #3) Will this work on my stock 240Z tach? This all works on the Stock Tach. The Promaster coil is rated at 0.60 ohms but I've Never had an issue and I know for fact that the needle will swing to 8000RPM (My throttle stuck when I forgot to instal a return spring on the SU's after I installed them. OOPS #4) What are the part numbers and prices?? Mallory Unilite p/n 4763901 w/vaccum advance. $389 at Jegs and Summit Racing. MSD 6A (6200 series) $171 at Jegs and Summit Racing MSD 8910 Tach Adaptor $40 at both Jegs and Summit Racing Mallory Promaster Coil W/ correct Ballast resistor $82 at Jegs If the link does work, go to Jegs and type in promaster coil 29440 and make sure the picture shows the ballast resistor http://www.jegs.com/i/Mallory/650/29440/10002/-1# I use nothing but NGK plugs (BP6ES) gapped at .060 and NGK Blue spark plug wires. You can pick up the plugs and wires from most auto parts stores. The plugs run about $2 a peice and the wires are around $20 to $35 http://www-b.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Nissan/240Z/NGK/Ignition_Wire_Set/19701973/W0133-1625833.html #5) Is it worth it?? Definately worth it. I installed the Unilite 3 years ago and haven't had to touch it once, other than to clean the brass tips inside the cap. I still have the same cap and rotor that came with the Distributor. The rotor has a removable brass arm that can be pulled and cleaned and reinstalled when needed. The total of everything NEW is about $720 before shipping but you now have part numbers and can research them and probably find them cheaper on eBay or elsewhere. I did'nt pay that much because I do a lot of Trade work which results in some great deals from friends and such. If anyone has pertinent info to add to this thread feel free. I did not however, write this thread to be debated or commented on. What you see is what you get, as all the info is true to the best of my knowledge and current as of 4/23/09 Additional charges for tax and shipping will and can be found on the above web-sites. MSD Unilite Promastr Ballast wiring.bmp Unilite Ballast wiring.bmp

Hi, so I just finished rebuilding the engine on my 1973 240z and it turns over, but no start. Its getting air and fuel so it seems logical the only reason its not starting is the spark. My car has an MSD blaster 2 coil and an e12-80 module. We used the multimeter and determined that both the positive and negative side on the coil are getting around 12v, is this right?? Same thing goes for the b and c on the module. I am assuming the negative is supposed to be grounded, so am I missing a connection on the wiring harness? Or is the module messed up? Thanks for the help! I have it hooked up like this diagram:

'73, stock distributor, Pertronix Igniter, MSD 6A. Symptoms started one day last week after winding out 2nd gear. My tach jumped from around 4K up to around 6K, then back down to around 4K. After that, the engine was running roughly, not revving easily, and backfiring under anything more than light load. I thought maybe a plug was fouled because it definitely felt like it was down a cylinder. Here's what I've done: 1) Changed the plugs 2) Checked to make sure the distributor didn't move. 3) checked the cam timing, thinking it was timing chain slip or the tensioner broke. It was dead on. 4) Checked valve clearance, since it'd been about 2 years. No difference. 5) At this point, it occurred to me to pull the plug wires one by one. This is when I found that #6 was not firing. 6) I swapped the wires for positions 5 and 6. The problem stayed on 6. 7) Swapped in a new rotor. No difference. 8) Swapped in the last distributor cap I had. No difference. 9) swapped in another new plug on #6 just in case I had a bad new plug. 10) Propped the #6 wire and plug up on top of the value cover so I could start the car and watch for a spark. No sparks. At this point I'm thinking that something is wrong with my distributor, but I don't know what to do next. Help?

Hey Z crowd. I just pick up a beautiful dust blue '76 Z last week and already have a dozen parts coming to clean her up (new carpet, power window kit, etc). I have an MSD 6AL controller and Blaster 2 coil from a Chevy 383 stroker that I'm no longer using and figured, why not, throw it in the Z. My research has brought me to understand that I need a tach adapter to make the 5v square wave from the MSD work with the 12v sine(?) wave needed for the tach and fuel injection of the Z. The adapter MSD forums suggested was the 8910. They have about $50 for it. Thing is, if I could get a schematic for the adapter, or a similar circuit, I could simply build my own. I've noticed there are some pretty electronic-savvy people on here, so I joined. So I guess here is the short question: How do I convert the MSD 5v square wave to a 1976 Z's 12v sine wave? Also, do I even have the correct values? Thanks everyone.