Search the Community

Earlier today my 280Z started right up and idled just fine as it has done for the past 9 years. It was idling for about 5-10 minutes then it just dies. No stutter, no chugging, no nothing, just dies as if the spark randomly shut off. So I test my spark plugs, no spark. Inspect the distributor cap, looks good. Check the coil, no voltage signal from the coil to the cap. And that's my issue me thinks. So I pull the coil to test it. Primary circuit has 0.8 ohms resistance and the secondary has 22k ohms resistance. The values are a little out of range from what the book i have tells me, but they should still be close enough to send some sort of signal. I have 12vat the positive terminal of the coil and 12v at the negative terminal. I have no friggin clue why it died and suddenly lost all spark. I did not jiggle any wires before it died, nor did I unplug anything, it just keeled over. I can not find a Transistor Ignition Unit inside my engine bay, it was not in the location the manual said it would be. (Next to the battery) I am trying to sell my car soon as a driveable project car because I don't have the time or money to throw at restoring it and this random death of spark really dampens my day. So any help would be appreciated.

So awhile back I tried to jump start my 1982 280zx turbo. Foolishly I swapped the posts on the battery popping a fusible link which I replaced. I have also replace spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and ignition coil. But I am still left with no spark. I feel like a huge doofus because if I had swapped the posts the car would be fine. Also I did get a new battery but it has lost charge because it has been sitting but I can jump start it without a problem using the correct posts this time to try and start the car but I am still left with no spark. I do know that a possible problem is the ECU. is there a way to test that and anything else going forward? Because all other possible solutions going forward I know can get costly quick. So I am trying to avoid buying unnecessary parts. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

I am trying to determine if my ignition switch is bad. Some history on the issue: I have a starter button which connects directly to the starter. The starter will engage without the key by pressing the button. It will however not start if the ignition switch is not in the on position. I believe this is because there is no electrical flow or spark. Currently I have no electric flow when the key is in the arse or ON position, ie no wipers, blower etc. Also no spark. I used a multi meter and tested all 5 wire connectors that hook to the ignition switch, I have power in one only it is the white /red wire. Is this correct or am I susposed to have power in all 5 wires. I have attached a photo for clarity. Could someone please help I am at the end of my patience.

I have a 1974 260z with a external starter button.Usually you turn the key to the on position and hit the button and it starts. If the key is not in the on position the car will turn over but not start. Seems the key being on ignites the spark and allows the electric to flow to the components. I just put the engine back in and when I put the key to start usually the electrical components become live. Usually at this time the defroster light come on if the defrost is on as well as the choke light or wipers if they are switched on. Now nothing no spark either. Anybody have any ideas as my electrical knowledge is zero.This starter button arrangement was in the car when I bought it so I have no idea how it is wired.,......Help

alrighty, so i recently bought a 73 240z project car and i am stuck. the problem started with no fuel, but the fuel pump was bad, so i swapped in a new one and other than the lines being clogged, that issue is resolved. then i checked to see if i was getting spark, and i was not. so i replaced the distributor cap, points, rotor (the guy that spins in the distributor), coil, spark plugs, and plug wires (installed correctly checked twice). still no spark. so i started to forum search to try to diagnose the problem. ==to check if i got spark or not i removed the plug wire from the #1 spark plug and put it close to the block, head, and spark lug to see if it arced. -I checked to see if the coil was getting power by removing the ground wire, attaching a new one, and seeing if there was spark whever i touched it to brae metal. -hard lined positive end of the coil to the positive terminal on the battery, hard lined a new ground to the negative side of the terminal, checked to see if i got spark, nope. there are a few things attached to the coil and distributor that i am not really sure if i need them/ what they attach to, and they might be what is causing the no spark. here is the coil 1. is a coil condenser? i think. this came with the car and the wire was borken so i spliced it back together 2. BY wire, is a wire that goes to, i think, the ignition. 3. is possibly a ground but i have no idea where it grounds out 4. i have no idea what relay it is 5. i have no idea what this is here is the distributor here is a condenser that i replaced, and there is a prong sitting at teh top of it that apparently goes to the coil negative side, but where would i connect it.

Hello all, I've been tinkering on my Z for awhile and I'm having a hard time getting it started. I had a stock 240 dizzy with the pertronix set-up and then added dual webers. It ran wonderfully but I decided that I needed a distributor without the vacuum advance. So I ordered a unilite, installed it, and now I'm getting nothing. I've checked for spark at the plugs and the coil, no spark at either of them. I've checked the module on the unilite and I'm getiing 11.8V with ignition on and 0.8V with an interuption in the LED. (believe this to be good) I've double checked my wiring to no avail and even tried a few different configurations I've seen on previous posts. I've got 12V at the coil with the ign on but As of the moment, the only action I get from the ignition is a spark on my tester when I turn the key from "run" to "acc"...just a short burst from the coil wire So I am very puzzled as to what the problem is, I've got a few hunches but I want to get some positive re-enforcement or some new ideas becuase my head hurts!! Thanks ahead of time! :nervous: Shane