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Showing results for tags 'oil'.
Found 11 results
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Hi I’m the owner of a standard 6/1972 Datsun 240z, which I recently changed the clutch on (with a new clutch kit) because of an oil leak from the rear main seal. All went well on the install and when I finished I began refill transmission with gear oil (Pennzoil Synchromesh). My owners manual calls for 1.5 liters of fluid in the “transmission case”. I ended up filling the transmission, but it never came overflowing out of the fill plug hole after using 2 bottles (which is roughly 2 liters). Should I continue filling until it flows out or hold off? I should also note I had the transmission upside down for couple of days and small amount of fluid did drain from what I believe is the breather (metal circular piece.)
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Dear members, Yesterday my dad just bought a Datsun 240z with a 280 motor swap. Today I figured I’d just check under the car for any oil leaks. And sure enough there was a substantial puddle of oil. Right underneath the u joint. Any one an idea what the cause could be of this leak? Some observations we made: tranmission whines a bit (is this normal behavior?), the car jerked a bit yesterday while accelerating but later stopped jerking. car has been restored (in 1998), recently new fluids: transmission, engine & diff. Also so the right floor pan is rather wet and greasy from underneath the car. I hope sincerely someone can help us out in finding what the cause could be of this oil leak. Thank you in advance! Kind regards, Winston BAE3CD68-CBF7-4EEF-AF46-43474CCDC331.MOV
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I've had a slow leak for years at the engine/transmission area and hoped it was just an oil pan gasket. After replacing the gasket with a rubber Fel-Pro, it continued to leak near the same place. I pulled the transmission (quite fun by myself) and clutch/flywheel only to find that the rear crank seal was not the source. After cleaning it all and letting it sit overnight, I had a small amount of oil above the pan/gasket, but not a drop from the seal. It looks to have been replaced when the previous owner had the clutch done years ago. After wiping it clean again, I carefully tightened the 3 oil pan bolts just a bit and saw oil ooze out from these two areas: Would replacing the two 'side seals' solve this problem? Should I bother replacing that main seal while its accessible? Bummer I pulled the transmission only to find this out, but it did give me a chance to clean 40 years of gunk off it. I can adjust the parking brake assembly, too.
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I need to drain both my differential and my 4 speed transmission. It is filled with non synthetic. I am reading all about redline and or royal purple however they are both synthetic. My understanding is you cant put synthetic oil in if it did not contain synthetic before. IS this true- what do you use if not the synthetic and or how do you convert to use the synthetic. Any help is greatly appreciated -
Specs: 1977 Datsun 280z, 4/77 L28 Engine, everything original / stock Oil change 100 miles ago - 4 qts of 10w30, new oil filter Issue: For a few days now, i'm noticing that the Oil Pressure gauge shows the oil pressure dropping from ~40 psi down to ~5 psi over the course of 15mins of variable speed /rpm driving. Engine is sounding less smooth, running a touch rougher at idle. After reading previous threads, it looks like there's a few things i need to check first: 1) Check oil w/ a mechanical pressure gauge 2a) If mechanical gauge matches readings with stock electrical Oil Pressure gauge, then look at Oil Pressure Relief Valve to see if it's functioning. 2b) If mech gauge doesn't match electrical gauge, replace Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor Questions: 1) How / where do i connect a mechanical gauge to the engine? from same port as the Oil Pressure Gauge Sensor? 2) I'm noticing a lot of people mentioning a Oil Pressure Sending Unit often fails, but I don't see that part in the Service Manual - or haven't found a picture of one. What are they referring to? Isolation: 1) Engine does not cut out when Oil Pressure gauge shows what should be 0 psi Thanks in advance!
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I did a compression test on my recently rebuilt 260z engine. It has about 1500 miles on it. On the dry test with the carb fully open and the coil wire off I get the following results # 1 thru #5 came in at about 72 lbs but the # 6 came it at around 90lbs On the wet test all came in at 90 lbs including the # 6. I am rather new to this and this is the first time I have done a compression test, so my questions are- why would the # 6 not change from a dry to wet test. The warranty expires next week on this engine and I wanted to do this test prior to the warranty expiring.Is this something to be concerned about? Thnaks zdude1967
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I just rebuilt the top end of my 260 engine. Head redone, headers etc. It is now making blue smoke. If I let it run in my garage the smoke actually burns your eyes. It seems to be gas rich? In any case I am getting some feeddback that maybe my rings are gone. I am going to look at doing a compression test. But two questions: Does this sound like rings. If I have to replave the rings can it be done through the bottom end with the engine in the car. Can I pull the oil pan and go in that way. I hope so my wife just got the garage back from doing the top end. Hate to see the look on her face if she sees an engine on a stand where her parking space in the garage used to be Glenn
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Hello I just rebuilt my top end and have a good amount of blue smoke. It did not smoke prior to the top end rebuild. I installed a high capicity oil pump when I rebuilt adds about 15 to 20% more oil. Could this be the cause of the blue smoke. Am I flooding the engine with too much oil. The engine is stock. Thanks Glenn
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Hello everyone, we all know that the most expensive oil isn't always the best and especially not for classic cars. So, just which oil is the most suitable for the older Z cars. I know there was an article in a recent/current Practical Classics issue but was interested in what everyone was using and if anyone had any horror stories with "the wrong oil" I'll start with a story, in the army we use an engine oil called OMD90. It is a good oil and it contains a small amount of some sort of detergent. My friend at work has a triumph TR4a on its second engine now because of "the wrong oil". So from this I am keen to use the most suitable oil for the 70's mechanics in the old Z. Any help and fact and opinions are welcomed!! Thanks for everyones time. Matt
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is it normal for the engine to die when the oil dipstick is removed? cause that's the problem i'm having.
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I just completed a bunch of work on my 260. Rebuilt cylinder head, timing chain, gear, headers etc. In any case I don’t know if the oil pump has ever been changed, I saw a high capacity oil pump on the motorsports website. They of course have the standard one as well. The high capacity one claims a 10 to 15 % increase in volume. Would this be beneficial in a basically stock engine, could it be harmful, or it just doesn’t matter Anyone?
