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Hey guys, back again. 71 240z is running great, but I cant get the tach to work. I have a .3 ohm Pertronix coil and Pertronix Ignitor. I have tried the stock wiring, and various other wiring, but to no avail. I did notice that there is a GW wire, a larger BW wire, and the another smaller BW wire wich is conjoined with a B wire via a coupler. Right now I have the GW on the front side of the ballast along with the conjoined smaller BW and B wires, and the larger BW wire on the rear side of the ballast along with the R wire from the Ignitor. The B wire from the Ignitor is on the - post of the coil and a small B wire connecting the + coil post to the front side of the ballast. Sorry, I know it's alot so I will post pictures if needed. Any thoughts fine gentlemen? Thanks, C

Hi all, have been reading these forums for a long time but first time poster. Happy to be here I bought a 71 240z that was sitting for 4 years. Engine is complete, and cranks well but does not start. I already suspect a carb rebuild... But I thought I'd start with spark. When I first got the car in my garage I noticed no spark at all from the coil to the valve cover, cranking or not. Saw that the guy i bought it from wired the Pertronix Ignitor negative wire to the positive post on the coil, and the positive wire from the Ignitor to the ballast resistor. Since its a 3ohm coil, I wired the Ignitor properly to the coil. Now the coil wire does not spark to the valve cover while cranking, but as soon as I let off the key it sparks strong 1-3 times. I have replaced the ignition switch, rotor, coil, and dizzy cap with no avail. Jumped the battery to the Ignitor and still, same condition. Next steps are new Ignitor, and new starter. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated, thanks for having me on the forum.

This morning i decided to swap the ignitor installed on my 240z and after opening the distributor cap i notice something is missing, i guess it could be the ground wire,so i fabricated one with 2 terminals and installed a new pertronix ignitor model 1761 together with a 40511 new 3.0 ohms ignition coil. The car cranked up fine, but whenever you step on the gas the tachometer does not read correctly. Once it reaches to 5,000 RPM it jumps to 7000 goes back to zero, etc. If you have the car parked and step on the pedal it raises to 5,000 goes back to zero. Bottom line it is not Reading as it used to read with the former ignitor. What could be wrong here? Could i have missed something? I have attached pictures of the original 1761 ignitor and the one i just installed which is giving me problems. Your advice is highly appreciated.

Alright guys so I was planning on using a Mallory MAL 2363901 distributor and pertronix in my 11/70 240z but I just got an email back saying that they're discontinued and sold out. Every other place I've tried online seems to be sold out as well. I'm thinking of going with the Mallory unilite with mechanical advance (no vacuum advance) coupled with pertronix and was hoping someone else here might have had success with it and can give me some info. I'm going to be installing triple mikuni carbs shortly and plan on keeping the ballast resistor and using a 1.5ohm coil as well. If someone has done this before and could share what model they are using it would be greatly appreciated! As a side note, I have looked into other options such as late model distributors and have decided that I want to go with a Mallory one and spend a little bit more. Thank you. Chris

I've seen some walk throughs(mustangs..) that show that this has a plastic gauge to set the gap, but mine didn't come with that. has anyone installed one of these systems>? (this is actually on my '72 skyline, not a Z, but i bought a Z ignitor.. they don't make one for the skyline) My L20 engine is pretty much the same as the Z, just smaller.

Like the title says, I've given up. Over the past 2 years or so, I've wasted a pile of time trying to get electronic ignition into my 240Z. And I've failed. I could never get anything working well enough that I could be happy with it. I've tried two different ZX distributors, a total of three different E12-80 modules, a Pertronix ignitor in the stock 240Z distributor, and four different coils (original 240Z, original ZX, new aftermarket ZX & 3.0Ω Pertronix). It's worth noting that all three of the distributors I've tried had good vacuum advance units and no slop in the shaft bushings. Good, solid dizzies. I've fought pinging from bad advance curves, ignition washout at higher revs, and sometime both. I've swapped plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. around several times in a concerted attempt to make this work. (It probably doesn't help my confidence in this knowing of at least three E12-80 failures in the past few years around these parts, either.) Try as I might, I haven't been able to get anything to work as well and trouble-free as the stock points. I'm not an idiot, I've been working on and restoring old cars for decades. But I've certainly failed here. Yes, I'll concede that a good electronic ignition should be superior to the stock points. But for a weekend GT touring car, the points are probably good enough. I'll also concede that considering how many people have made this work on their cars, perhaps my car itself is at fault. (Perhaps too much voltage drop at the ignition?) But on the other hand, there's plenty of threads here with people having issues with electronic ignition conversions, so maybe I'm not alone. At this point I'm not convinced that either the ZX ignition or the Pertronix are the answer. Maybe the Mallory Unilite is better, but that's too much money for a stock L24. I'm still open to suggestions. I've got a Pertronix Ignitor and 3.0 Ω coil sitting on the bench right now. If someone can give me a clue, maybe I'll try again. Or not. It's running great on the points right now....

'73, stock distributor, Pertronix Igniter, MSD 6A. Symptoms started one day last week after winding out 2nd gear. My tach jumped from around 4K up to around 6K, then back down to around 4K. After that, the engine was running roughly, not revving easily, and backfiring under anything more than light load. I thought maybe a plug was fouled because it definitely felt like it was down a cylinder. Here's what I've done: 1) Changed the plugs 2) Checked to make sure the distributor didn't move. 3) checked the cam timing, thinking it was timing chain slip or the tensioner broke. It was dead on. 4) Checked valve clearance, since it'd been about 2 years. No difference. 5) At this point, it occurred to me to pull the plug wires one by one. This is when I found that #6 was not firing. 6) I swapped the wires for positions 5 and 6. The problem stayed on 6. 7) Swapped in a new rotor. No difference. 8) Swapped in the last distributor cap I had. No difference. 9) swapped in another new plug on #6 just in case I had a bad new plug. 10) Propped the #6 wire and plug up on top of the value cover so I could start the car and watch for a spark. No sparks. At this point I'm thinking that something is wrong with my distributor, but I don't know what to do next. Help?