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Hey everyone, I was curious if anyone knew of a brand that still carried moly piston rings for 86mm flat top pistons or any other good replacement for the oem piston rings. I've been looking for some the past few days and was just up all night reading and trying to find a brand that offers them but all I can find is chrome and cast piston rings. From what I've read oem rings are no longer available and sealed power piston rings discontinued there L series moly ring set. I looked at perfect circle, itm, grant, beck & arnley, motorsport, and a few other brands but couldn't find any. If you guys have any recommendations I would much appreciate it. Last I posted I had half my engine apart for a head gasket replacement and was considering a full tear down. One busy schedule, a few more tows, and I've finally found myself a spot to start working on my car again. I've gotten the entire lower end disassembled now and everything is in tip top condition, as I'd hope a 168k mile datsun would be. The valves, valve guides, rocker arms, camshaft, cam towers, pistons, cylinders, rings, crank, seals, and main and rod bearings are all in great condition. None the less I'm going to be replacing what I can with new oem parts or upgrades. The persons shop I'm using recommended that we re glaze the cylinder walls ourselves. He rebuilt and overhauled vw engines for 20+ years so I trust his mechanical advice but I'd like to get some advice from people that specialize in z motors on how to prepair a cylinder wall for moly , chrome, or cast iron piston rings. I know the cross hatching is supposed to be 45-30 degrees and it has to have a certain grit finish but I don't know the exacts. I've tried to read about it online with lots of vague imformatiom and in how to rebuild your datsun and how to modify your datsun but it doesn't go into enough detail. I'm sure a big question is why am I rebuilding my engine in the first place. A big reason is simply knowledge and education, another is peace of mind and garunteed quality of work and products. I've always had confidence in the L series engine quality and know they can reach upwards of 400k+ miles on an original engine, but as I said, I'm curious and wanted to tear it down none the less. I had a slight head gasket leak into cylinder 1 from the front right passenger side which led me to the tear down in the first place. While I'm here I plan on replacing my expansion plugs with brass, installing a new timing chain kit, new turbo oil pump, stainless steel or chromed engine fastener/hardware kit, arp con & main cap bolts, arp head studs, arp intake and exhaust studs, oem main & rod bearings, piston rings, all gaskets, all vacuum lines, all coolant lines, some fuel lines, all hose clamps, and a number of other small stuff around the engine bay, electrical, and suspension. When I get a little more free time I will make sure to upload photos for all of your viewing pleasure and go into more depth on anything else you guys would like to know. I need to order the parts sooner than later so the shop owner can get back to working on his own baby haha, your help and advice is greatly appreciated. Please share any and all recomendations/advice/criticism you might have for the piston ring brand, parts/hardware, preperation and assembly, or whatever else, I can't learn enough and really appreciate it! -Noah M

I just rebuilt the top end of my 260 engine. Head redone, headers etc. It is now making blue smoke. If I let it run in my garage the smoke actually burns your eyes. It seems to be gas rich? In any case I am getting some feeddback that maybe my rings are gone. I am going to look at doing a compression test. But two questions: Does this sound like rings. If I have to replave the rings can it be done through the bottom end with the engine in the car. Can I pull the oil pan and go in that way. I hope so my wife just got the garage back from doing the top end. Hate to see the look on her face if she sees an engine on a stand where her parking space in the garage used to be Glenn