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I am looking for a rebuild kit for my 1972 Z car mechanical fuel pump. The original equipment model is a Kyosandenki. i am trying to keep the original unit and do not want to go to an electric pump. There are a number of replacement options but i want to rebuild this one. Have checked all the sources i can think of without success so far. Wondering if i'm on a fools errand. Any leads would be greatly appreciated.

I have an early 1971 Z with four-bolt round-top carbs. I am rebuilding both carbs. I was told by a number or sources that the Walker 15566 was the right kit. Imagine my surprise when I compared the provided float needle and seat to the original. It was about 0.25-inches shorter than the original, or at least the one that has been installed for at least 20 years! The shorter assembly would not allow the float height to be set correctly. Is this the wrong kit or am I missing something? I did pick up some OEM braided hoses for the connecting the float bowl to the body of the carb. Can anyone confirm that the originals were in-fact braided? Where do I go from here? Dann

Rebuilding an f54 block and p79 head, only have two questions I haven't really been able to find an answer too. Probably simple questions. I"m looking for main bearing studs for the 83 f54 block and all the bolts I can find say 70-78 which would be an N42 block, right? Will those studs fit the f54 block? I was hoping to use arp hardware for the main studs, rod bolts, and head studs. Also, I'm going to be doing the "high compression mod" for the p79, which involves shaving the head .080" , shimming the cam towers .080" (which I found proper shims for on datsunspirit.) running n47 valves, which I have, that are .080" longer, and shimming the valve springs by .080". I read about this on datsunzgarage, and he mentions that the valve springs come with a .040" shim from factory, and to add two more. I can't for the life of me find those anywhere. Does anyone who has done this or knows about it know what I should use to accomplish this? He specifically says not to use washers, I assume because the metal is too soft or something. Additionally, having a little bit of trouble finding oversized flat top pistons in stock anywhere. Datsunspirit has them listed on his website as out of stock, I'm sure if I contacted him about buying some he could get a hold of them for me.

Long time listener, first time caller I figured I should start a thread for the restoration of my 260Z. I knew the previous owner of this car, the father of Captain Obvious. I hope he likes what I do with it. Maybe I should start with pics of the usual rust? Typical frame and rocker issues, front strut towers, nothing left of the floor.

Im looking for cast flattops to rebuild my 83 f54/p79, having a hard time finding ones that arent forged but I stumbled upon these. It says theyre for 75-79s but as far as I can tell those were the same as the pistons in the f54 block. Can anyone see any reason these wouldn't work or if I shouldn't buy from this source? https://zcardepot.com/engine/engine-rebuild/piston-set-of-6-pistons-l28-020.html?search=piston

Hello everyone I'm Lance. As you may saw earlier I bought a 240z with a L28 in it( The owner didn't even tell me he have a L28 in it until the car has been delivered all the way across America). Now the engine is out and apart and I'm ready to rebuild it. This engine is a N42 block with dished pistons and I'll guess it's a early one since the number stamped is small. It's got a E88 head and 3-screw SUs which I believe came with this car in 71. I'm not sure about the specs of the parts but it seems pretty stock to me. Anyway I have completely disassembled the engine and the block looks fine except those tiny tube inside coolant passage is broken (I removed coolant plugs and there's pieces of rusted metal so I cleaned it and saw this). If that's ok I guess I'll go get the rebore and honing done, as well as a new set of 280z valve and new flattop pistons. I might regrind the camshaft and make the duration longer. This engine is for daily driver so I don't want to be too aggressive. What are the things I need to worry about? I've done quite some research and bought a couple books. Throw some questions and advices at me so I can make sure I'm doing everything right. I'll post some Pics later.

As mentioned in my earlier threads, I recently purchased a '71 240Z with shifting issues (F4W71A 4-speed manual transmission). The transmission would not reliably shift into 3rd and the lever was so loose you had no idea what gear you were in or shifting into. Getting into reverse required slamming the lever to the right against the plastic console before pulling back. My plan was to replace the clutch disc and pressure plate and to rebuild the transmission. From the beginning I planned to drop it myself, but I called around for quotes to rebuild at shops, in part because I have never done this before. The lowest I found was about $1000 if I dropped it myself and brought it in; many shops said they couldn't/wouldn't work on something this old. I'm not doing a factory restoration so this was something I could not afford. Besides, I want to do as much work myself as possible. Let me again state that I had never rebuilt a transmission; I had never even removed one before. Due to this fact I had some trepidation about taking on this project. However, I did a lot of research before starting. AutoZone has the basic steps outlined on their website for free (requires registration on their site). The Haynes manual for the Z cars also explains the procedure and has illustrative diagrams and pictures. There's also this thread here on the forum: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42884-FS4W71A-Transmission-Assembly-Photos-%28Jan-1971-240z%29 The final clincher for me was speaking with my grandfather. He's always tinkered with cars; his first car was a 40's Packard and he's been working on them ever since. He told me that the first time he opened a transmission he was terrified, but it turned out that it actually wasn't that bad. For parts I started with the transmission rebuild kit available from AutoZone, with synchronizers. However, I must warn anyone who reads this in the future: THIS KIT IS WORTHLESS! While the synchronizers are correct, an extra fifth is included and only one of the six bearings (why? this transmission only has four) is the correct size. The single gasket included doesn't fit anywhere, but the needle bearing for the input shaft is correct. The oil seals are also correct. AutoZone was kind enough to let me keep the correct parts while issuing a refund, but I still needed the missing parts. I needed the bell housing and adapter plate gaskets, a new clutch fork dust boot (mine was hard and so it crumbled during removal) and a transmission breather (I snapped mine when trying to remove the rear extension housing). All of these parts are interchangeable with the Roadster 5-speed transmission, so I ordered them from datsunparts.com The applicable part numbers on the site are 2194 (clutch fork dust boot), 2203 (breather), and (2481) gaskets. Dean was very helpful, verified that the Roadster parts would work, and expedited my order. I would highly recommend his site and will be ordering from him again. I ordered the missing bearings by their Timken part numbers from Amazon. This was a good solution because the bearings are carried by Amazon and are thus Amazon Prime-eligible (free 2-day shipping or cheap next-day). I also wanted to replace the spring that retains the clutch fork on its ball pivot since it was worn, and it's a good idea to replace the output shaft lock tab washer whenever you remove it. These two parts were ordered from ZSpecialties. They aren't listed on their site, but if you call them up they can get a hold of them. In this manner I managed to cobble together a transmission rebuild kit. If I was to do this again I would purchase a kit from a business specializing in Z cars. While my methods may have resulted in lower monetary cost there was much hassle and wasted time. The above-listed sources detail the rebuild process step-by-step. I'll just name a few pointers for anyone in a similar situation who finds this thread in the future: - You'll need two floor jacks. A transmission jack or a large adapter plate might be helpful, but I didn't have or use either. A floor jack instead of a jack stand under the engine block will allow you to tilt the engine to make mating easier. - If the bell housing doesn't come off easily check if you missed any bolts. I missed two on my first pass; they were completely covered in friction material dust, grease, and road grime. - While everything is apart you'll want to clean it. Any bearings to be reused should be cleaned only in clean gasoline. I cleaned other interior parts and surfaces with gasoline and brake parts cleaner. My wife scrubbed the casing exterior with steel wool pot scrubbers (isn't she great?). Any surface that came in contact with water I wiped down with alcohol to ensure no moisture remained. - The adapter plate needs to be secure in order to drive out and install the shafts. While a bench-mounted vise would be easiest, I don't have one. Instead, I screwed the adapter plate to a piece of 2x4 through its bolt holes and then clamped the wood to the edge of my workbench. - Take apart the gear and shaft assembly over a container. There are a number of easily-lost parts: three detent balls and springs held in by plugs, four detent balls between the shift rods in the adapter plate, a ball under the speedometer worm gear, and a ball under the thrust washer adjacent to 1st gear. Placing these parts in labelled baggies would be wise. - Test the shifting performance of the transmission repeatedly at the various stages of re-assembly and installation. You'd hate to get it in the car only to discover a synchronizer assembly had dislodged. - The clutch pressure plate fits on the flywheel in a specific orientation. There are three dowels on the flywheel; each dowel mates to a specific hole on the plate. If the plate doesn't press on easily, rotate the plate and try again. This wasn't mentioned in any of the instructions or the clutch kit. - Before re-installing the transmission you can make a few modifications to tighten up the shifter. You can insert a greased washer next to the shifter bracket on the striker rod, and use a bolt and nut assembly with greased washers to secure the fork to the striker rod. (see attachment, original image credits to Blue's thread linked above) - It may be helpful to have an assistant hold the transmission by the shifter bracket from the cabin through the cutout in the tunnel; this will assist in getting the right tilt to mate the transmission to the engine. - The transmission should slide in easily. If not, drop the transmission, loosen the pressure plate bolts, and recenter the clutch disc with the shaft centering tool. - While re-installing the clutch slave cylinder check the dust boot on the piston and rod for cracks and tears. New slave cylinders are only $20 on Amazon. Remember to tighten up the rod so there's no play in the clutch fork. - The A-series transmission can't use the brass bushings commonly referenced to improve shifter feel. Instead, you need machined conical bushings to go in the bracket. ZSpecialties sells the appropriate bushings; I'm sure others do too. - There are two easy ways to refill the transmission (use synthetic 90-weight gear oil) without any sort of pumping device. Many stores sell a valve and tubing assembly that connects directly to the oil bottle. My wife held the bottle in the engine compartment while I directed the tubing into the fill hole. Had this not worked I also purchased a length of aquarium tubing in order to fill from the side. The transmission is now back in the car. I hit 3rd gear every time and the shifter is much tighter (some play will always exist as a result of the "monkey motion" assembly). To anyone wondering whether they can do this on their own, I would say go for it. While there were a few tense moments I learned a lot, had genuine fun in this project, and can claim something few people have done. Next weekend's project: rebuild the carburetors with a ZTherapy kit.

Alberta car Manuf. in '69 S/N 00072, Engine L24 2192. Missing: original carbs, transmission, original steering wheel, bumpers. Seats. Rear brackets have been modified for Jeep bumperettes. Added: 3 piece rear spoiler, louvres, front air dam, 2nd rear hatch piston. Everything else original including engine. I have all the original pieces, markings, etc Metal all very good. Many extra/duplicate parts, (Quikor front swaybar and 2+2 rear swaybar). Rear glass is clear. Front dash has no cracks. Garaged since '86. Other than front glass being attached, the car is stripped and ready for final pre-paint touch ups.

Hi all, This is pretty much my first time on a forum apart from a short time on rotary car club, so please excuse me if I do things a little wonky starting off. Anyway, I absolutely love s30's and intend on rebuilding one in the near future. I'm here to try and get started. My plans have changed over time from an ls swapped 300zx to a 350sbc swapped s30 to just realizing I wanted to retain the L platform in these cars and just go for lightweight, and great throttle response and handling with modest power. So I'm set on an L28 and after a bit of research here actually have come to the conclusion I'm looking for a p54 block with an n42 head in need of rebuild, or at least clean up and assembly. The problem is, I can't seem to find anything near me that seems like a reasonable price. The best thing I've found right now is a guy selling "l28 blocks with dished pistons" for 350 and a range of heads from 500-800. He seems to have a large warehouse full of parts and I will probably contact him with what I'm looking for. But I figured it would be worth a shot to hop on a forum that seems to be filled with nice, helpful people and see if anyone has these in the area(washington state, not afraid to drive). If you have any information feel free to send it my way, and thank you for your time. I hope to be on here troubleshooting in the near future, working on the Z. (:

Hi everyone, So it has come to my attention that Cardone does not rebuild the smog pumps up to a suitable standard, and they are only barely useable. I can post pictures to prove this theory, but it's not a theory. It's just a fact at this point that I am now well aware of. They are absolute crap. I would go so far as to say any of the "cast grey" looking ones you see online as rebuilds are all rebuilt by the same place, and they are all just terribly assembled and refinished. I have been looking into buying the necessary items for rebuilding the factory smog pump to spec, and I am wondering if this is something you guys are willing to have done for restorations. In order to keep costs at a minimum, I will have to order various parts in bulk (as that's the only denomination they are sold in). If the price of restoring a smog pump to factory look/style/finish with as many new parts as possible inside the unit, with a core charge, was around $300-$400 USD... is that something that classiczcars members would entertain? Keep in mind, most smog pumps are $200 and they are just cobbled together. Also, since the horn gaskets and hardware are no longer available, I can offer a horn rebuilding service as well. I am having gaskets cut, and locating the hardware at a reasonable price, as well as the finishes. Not sure on what the cost of that would be yet.

Hi all, I am in the middle of rebuilding my 5 sp. trans (FS5W71C) . I am stuck at getting the OD gear bushing off - it's just about the last thing I need to get off to be able to replace a noisy main bearing. Anybody have any experience with this problem? Do I press on the main shaft and the other side of the adapter plate or do I try to get behind the reverse gear on the shaft? Heat it up with a torch? Thanks!

is it possible for a garage hack with very little trans experience and ALOT of spare time to rebuild my gearbox myself?? i installed my 82zx engine and trans into my 71 240 and now want to fix my 2nd gear synchro problem. seems on 1-2 upshift there is a very brief grind with the clutch, impossible without. i have replaced slave cylinder (was leaking in the zx) and properly bled the system. grind is/was present in both cars, don't believe it's the clutch master cylinder. sorry if i'm in the wrong forum, but most racers i know do or have done their own mechanical work. if you think i could fix/rebuild my gearbox, where do i get the technical books and parts for a good performance-autocross build. thanks in advance for any positive feedback. my first post EVER!:stupid: