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I need your advice regarding my '72 240Z. Can't get either of my front end strut inserts out of their strut housing after I removed the gland nut. They should just slip out. They do not. Perhaps they are rusted in? I've saturated them in penetrant, heated the housings with a propane torch, tapped the housings with a hammer, and of course pulled on 'em like crazy. Got any ideas for me, please?

Hello and thank you taking a look at my issue. I've just finished turbocharging my NA 1978 and have been running into many issues. Firstly, the car will crank for days but never starts, I've narrowed it down now to spark. I have disconnected the transistor ignition unit as it has an e12-80 module and distributor from a 1980 zx, with a new cap, rotor, and aftermarket ignition coil. Verified rotor is spinning. On the ignition module I have C going to Negative post on coil and B going to Positive. I have the Blue/Black wire & Blue wire connected to Negative on the coil, and Black/White connected to Positive. (There's a skinny white/black wire that I have no clue what to do with, can't find anything on it). I also have a wire connected to a post the distributor going to chassis ground (that wire got a little warm while trying to start the car, strange, disconnected and still no start.) The coil is getting 12~VDC at both posts with key at ON, and 0.00 with key at OFF. Any leads would be greatly appreciated, just want to drive this thing again 😔

Let me start this thread by saying that I was not looking to solve a mystery or bust a myth when I started this procedure. I just wanted to rebuild my tired old 76 280Z half-shafts! I think there was a very common myth that the S30 half-shafts were different sizes. The driver side being shorter than the passenger side. Even though the distance from the wheel hub to the differential differs (more-so with the R200) from side to side, the half-shafts are IDENTICAL! The amazing amount of lateral play in the shaft allows it to expand or contract almost three inches. ...on to the pics! First a shot of the shafts after I ran one through the media cabinet next to the other. The removal of the u-joints is straight forward, several well documented methods on line if you need help there. Now the science! Here you can see that the axles are identical in each dimension. Also note the layout of the snap rings, retaining rings and the balls and spacers. And for those that were still disbelieving, a shot of a 240 half-shaft next to the 280 half-shaft. 240 shaft with the u-joint still attached. Then on to refurbishing! You will need 4 new u-joints. SKF UJ393, MOOG 393, or Precision 393 will all work or any variation thereof. I media blasted the shafts and protected the bearing surfaces while doing so. I then painted the exposed parts in Cast Iron engine paint from Duplicolor. Love the look! I re-used the old boots as they were in great shape. After blasting the shafts and painting them, I turned the boots inside out and fed the wide side over the bearing shaft. I used the cut-off top of a funnel to aid the narrow end going over the shaft and up into position. Worked excellent. Leave the boot inside out for now. Slide the upper retaining ring and snap ring on to hold the shafts together, tuck them up by the boot. Refer to the above pic for proper order. Attach the lower retaining ring and snap ring. Put the cleaned spacers and bearings into a zip lock bag full of a good quality bearing grease and ensure they are coated nicely all around. Place them in the channels in the correct order, ball bearing at the bottom, spacer at the top. The grease will keep them in place. Add about 10g of grease to the top of each channel. Carefully slide the shaft back into the axle while ensuring the ball bearing and spacers are supported by the retaining tabs. Make sure the shaft is orientated correctly, the same direction as the axle end! Try and keep the bearings at the bottom of the assembly as it goes together. Holding it vertical helps. When the shaft is in the axle, add another 30g of grease to the top of the shaft, concentrating on the open groves of the axle that did not receive the bearings. Use the retaining ring to push it all together and seat the bearings. I used a screwdriver and hammer to tap the retaining ring flat. Worked great, didn't need much pressure. Reattach the snap ring to the axle at the top. Wipe up the grease you got everywhere... and pull the boot back down outside-in , ensuring the top fully inverts and seats in the groove, same as the bottom. Attach your favourite brand of cv boot clamp over the boot ends and securely tightly. Mine had not arrived in time for the pictures. Proceed on to installing the u-joints, being careful not to damage the pretty paint! Grease the u-joints and you are done! Another 40 years of glorious torque! Thanks to Jim @zKars for his guidance and wisdom.

Hi folks. I consigned my car again to a Houston auction house. The opening bid is $15,000 with no reserve. Here is the link: https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/78726134_1972-datsun-nissan-240z

I currently have the stock 240z differential and I was looking to swap it for a z31 differential. Just wanted to ask you guys some questions. 1) would it be easier to rebuild current differential ninstead of swapping? 2) if I should proceed with swap what else would I need to modify or buy to install it, along side a 5 speed u currently have

View Advert 1972 240z - For sale at No Reserve at 12/7/19 Houston Auction Here is the link to the auction listing with more photos. https://lmauctionco.hibid.com/lot/16208-191870-92609/1972-datsun-nissan-240z/ One can bid on LiveAuctioneers. https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/78726134_1972-datsun-nissan-240z Advertiser 718Miata Date 11/29/2019 Price $15,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1972 Model 240z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) HLS30-70470  

As many of you are aware, I brought my 72 S30 to SZR Pro, in Houston, Texas, for a top to bottom evaluation of the car, and for any resultant work. The car was there for many weeks. When I picked it up, I had a long conversation with the mechanic who did most of the actual work on the car. He told me that he really liked the car and had been doing burnouts in it. I’ve been extremely dissatisfied with the quality of SZR’s work. I’ve been recently going back and forth with Brad, SZR’s manager, about the propriety of the burnouts. He gave the following explanation: “No, he didn't admit that he did burnouts in your car, but burnouts in sports cars on private property in front of a performance shop aren't terribly uncommon. It's an effective strain check on the drivetrain of the car, similar in applied force to a spirited acceleration on the road. Oil pressure goes up, fuel pressure goes up, engine, clutch, trans, driveshaft, diff, and axles are under load, and the rear suspension compresses. All of this without leaving the parking lot, endangering anyone, or breaking any laws. We're not going to fill the lot with smoke or burn the tires down, but it is an effective test. That being said, I can see how one might consider that mistreatment. Though examining the physical forces applied to the various vehicle components would show that they're either equal to, or less than the forces applied by an enthusiastic drive down the road, some might be disturbed by wheelspin and tire smoke. If Raul did do burnouts in your car, and this is distasteful to you, then I humbly apologize for our apparent mistreatment of your sports car.“ Even if I were to accept Brad’s explanation that the burnouts were done for testing purposes (which I don’t because it contradicts what the mechanic told me), is road testing a car with burnouts at all reasonable?

Here’s the link to the auction, which will be on Saturday, July 27 at 12pm. My car will likely be closer to 2pm. My car is Lot 155a. I’m going to set a low reserve. https://lmauctionco.hibid.com/catalog/174945/lewis-and-maese-july-27th--2019-saturday-mancave-auction/ You can bid on LiveAuctioneers.com, as well.

View Advert S30 front suspension mounting brackets S30 Datsun, 240Z, 260Z, front suspension mounting brackets replacement, front suspension part, 65$ + shipping /set of 2. Advertiser ZCarFever Date 07/03/2019 Price $65.00 Category Parts for Sale  

Hey I just joined here! IV been planning this build for about 5 years now and finally been actively working on it in my free time here and there for about a year and a half! This is the first engine swap I have ever attempted and it now runs and drives! Next step is an exhaust system and then getting it on a Dyno for the standalone ecu to be fully tuned! Please ask any questions and im very open to suggestions as to what to do next, because it still is a bone stock 280z chassis... And that's not good due to the 400hp minimum I plan to make at the wheels. The engine is a 1jzgte out of a jzx90 the Toyota mark II , cresta , or the mark X as it's also refered to , basically it's the JDM version of the Toyota Cressida that was sent to the states that I believe used a 5mge engine . Here is a list of all that I can think of that is done to the 1jz that is not stock! Link g4+ monsoon stand alone ECU,Panic Wire harness,10lb flywheel, 264 cam shafts, Head ported (intake side only), Adjustable cam gears, Eclutchmasters 6 puck unsprung clutch and pressure plate (stage 4)Drift Motion turbo kit Billet 6262 turbo (Garrett internals), manifold, wastegate tial replica, and 3" downpipe, Hks bov replica, Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator, 440cc injectors,Bosch 044 fuel pump, Arp head studs, rear sump oil pan conversion, Aem wideband Short throw shifter, a/c and p/s delete (shortened serpentine belt and new ribbed pulley on tensioner),vvti coils wasted spark setup, CX racing intercooler KVID0467.mp4 KVID0466.mp4 KVID0864.mp4

At the risk of sounding redundant, I wanted to put together a coilover list. There are a few of these threads/topics around the internet already, but lots of them are from years towards 2006 (I didn't even have my driver's license yet) and have old, outdated links, or are not very comprehensive and easy to read. I am looking at coilover sets for my '78 280z so these links will be specific to that (mainly so I can reference it later). Assume that all are ride-height adjustable. I didn't look super hard for lowest price, so the options may be cheaper somewhere else. Order: Expensive --> Least Expensive Format: Name | Cost | Colors/Special Notes | Link TechnoToyTuning Coilovers | $2040 | Maroon/gold, NO-WELD (send in your cores) | https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/front-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z + https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/rear-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Arizona Z Car Coilover Set | $1600 | Red\Silver, camber plates | http://arizonazcar.com/coil.html Stance USA Coilover kit | $1295 | Black/Bronze, Camber Plates and Swift Springs @ +$300 each | http://sakuragarage.com/products/datsun-suspension/ BC Racing Coilovers - BR Series | $1200 | Black/Gold, camber plates | https://coiloverdepot.com/products/74-5-78-nissan-260z-s30-bc-coilover-br-type?variant=16741482757 KSport Control Pro Fully Adjustable Coilover Kit | $1080 | Black/Orange, Pillowtop Camber Adjustability | https://www.andysautosport.com/products/ksport__cns361-kp.html D2 Coilovers - RS Series | $1000 | Black/Purple, camber plates | http://www.sparktecmotorsports.com/d2-d-ni-01.html Megan Racing Coilovers | $900 | Black/Red, Pillowtop Camber Adjustablity | https://www.andysautosport.com/products/megan_racing__mr-cdk-280z.html CX Racing | $869 | Black/Red, Pillowball mount & Camber plate adjustable | https://www.cxracing.com/coilover/coilover-nissan-infinity/CO-B-280Z-0405-PB Ground Control Coilover Kit | $429 | Maroon\Yellow, No adjustability | https://www.andysautosport.com/products/ground_control__6020.01.html Other Evolved Front Coilovers (FRONT ONLY) | $1290 | Maroon/Gold, camber plates, NO-WELD (send in your cores) - Don't seem to list a matching rear set | https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/evolved-front-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z Intrax | $??? | There are 4 options on their site. Can't find any pricing. Made in Holland. | http://en.intraxracing.nl/merken/datsun/ If I missed any, let me know and I can add them.

Evans 280z front pully gear 36-1 tooth.dwg I made it out of 1018 steel used a CNC water jet to cut it. I know I was in need of some specs and I finally broke down and made my own and I want to share it with other people who need this. Everyone feel free to use it or modify it. Enjoy!!!

I have a Fiberglass (recently just sold the urethane one before installing it) Type 1 airdam for my 280z. Of course, it did not come with any hardware. Just looking at it, it seems like I'll need 6 bolts, 6 nuts, and 12 washers. What size bolts did you guys use for hardware? Anyone remember? And I'm assuming I should use stainless?

Who would be interested in a Bolder Tint? If you are older than 40, you remember them. Mirrored mylar with block-letter logos that stuck to the inside of your windshield, like so: After several years of looking, I have made a breakthrough. I have located and contacted the original manufacturer of the Bolder Tint brand. While the company no longer does automotive products, he does still have the original dies for the S30 windshield, and is willing to do a batch for us. These would be the real thing - true Bolder Tints by the original maker, not replicas. Here's the ground rules, and where we stand on this: 1.) This would be an exclusive to CZCC. The manufacturer wants it to be a club-related project. No direct offers would be posted on other Z sites. 2.) Minimum order is 100 units. 3.) The 100 units do not all have to be the same logo, but there would be a minimum of 20 units per logo. Logos available would probably include "240-Z" (as pictured above) and "280-Z". If we can get 20 or more commitments on either of "260-Z" and/or "DATSUN" those may be possible as well. 4.) Estimated price per unit would be $30-35 each, including shipping within the USA. Perhaps a small break for multiples to the same address, although any break may not be much, as each unit will come pre-packaged with instructions in its own mailing tube. So multiple shipping savings may be small. 5.) At prices in that range, I should be able to break even, or perhaps there may be a buck or two "profit" over my costs. If so, any amount over and above true cost and shipping will be donated to CZCC. There will not be any personal profit for the facilitator (me). The plan is this - We'll start with this poll, to try to determine demand. Don't send money yet. If the demand is such that we feel comfortable with the possibility of selling at least 100, the next step would be to accept pre-paid pre-orders. Once enough pre-orders come in that I am certain that costs would be covered, I will order the units, and then shortly begin shipping them out. If it breaks down before the parts are ordered, refunds for pre-paid orders will be given. So here's step 1 - the poll. I've set this up to allow people to vote for more than one choice, so vote for as many as apply. This poll is not a firm committment to buy. But please don't vote if you aren't fairly certain, as we need a pretty accurate count to proceed to the next step.

I'm setting up triple 45s with the cannon manifold and conversion kit and I hit a snag. The plate that the throttle linkages connect to on each carb is so close that the head of the bolt holding them together hits a mounting point on the carb. I was thinking I would just flatten out this point since it's not needed and move on with my life. Do I just have it set up slightly wrong or is this common?

Hi all, I'm from France and I'm interested in a Datsun 240Z that has been imported from the US in the year 2016. I know it could be crazy but I would like if someone in this big community could have informations about this Z. The VIN number is HLS3028417. It is a 71' Z. The plate number is 2SRX221 and the previous owner was from San Jose (CA). The car has the signature of Yoshihiko Matsuo on the passenger sunvisor if it can help. Here are some pictures of the car . Any help or advice welcome. Thank you

Unused floor pans bought from Motorsport in California no reasonable offer refused rich 909 560-3095 rhchew@att.net

Cowl for under windshield wiper for early Z's; purchased from Motorsport unused, still in brown protective coating; no reasonable offer refused so cal LA area rhchew@att.net 909 560-3095