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I've been looking for a good throttle cable kit for my 73 240Z with SU's, but couldn't find any. I heard MSA had one, but no luck finding any links or info. There's an ArizonaZCar instructions link I kept seeing, but link is broken. So, seeing nothing available, I decided to build my own. Actually, I put together a few kits (9 more left) thinking maybe others might also be interested. You provide the cable kit, but you decide if you want to spend more for a Lokar cable, or a cheaper $20 Amazon knockoff. The design objectives were: Use of readily available 24" universal throttle cable kit (you provide). No junkyard rummaging needed. No welding or modification to gas pedal. Stock ball is used. No drilling of firewall. Completely reversible if you want to return to stock setup. Only 1 hole needs to be drilled in the carb linkage. Cable runs from carb linkage all the way to gas pedal so you can completely remove old linkage. High quality parts. Plasma cut, yellow zinc plating, and CNC machined bushing. Circled parts are included. You provide the 24" Lokar TC-1000HT (braided), Lokar TC-1000U (black), or a cheaper knockoff. The Lokar is better, but any will work, as long as the adjuster threads are 5/16-24. Just so you get a taste of the install process, here are abbreviated instructions. I'm working on a more detailed set for purchasers. Remove the 4 nuts from the rear SU carb, slide away from engine and remove center linkage. Slide carb back on studs to hold, you don't need to remove any cables or hoses from the SU. The only modification needed is drilling a 3/16" hole in the stock lever so a new lever can be bolted in place. New ball is placed further away from linkage centerline to help give better off idle control of rpm's. Reinstall center linkage and place bracket onto the 2 lower studs of the SU and tighten carb back into place. At this point you could reinstall your old linkage if want to finish project later, or test to make sure your SU's are still happy. Slot provided so you can pull cable away from engine without loosening the cable set screw. On the firewall/gas pedal side, remove gas pedal by removing the 3 screws. You'll need to make the ball end of the cable smaller in diameter so it will fit inside the socket's M5 thread. I twirled mine on the side of a grinding wheel, but a file could work. Then run the Allen head set screw (it has a hole drilled through it) onto cable and into socket to lock cable in place. Red thread locker or small center punch on threads to lock set screw in place if needed (after checking fit at gas pedal). Discard the adjusting nut and replace with firewall bushing after cutting the threads to about 3/8" in length so they don't stick out of the firewall bushing. Tighten cable sheath to firewall bushing, large diameter side facing to rear. Slide cable back into sheath and attach socket to your gas pedal linkage ball. Feed cable through firewall throttle hole until bushing is against inside of hole. I found it easier to feed cable through sheath now, leaning gas pedal against trans tunnel, instead of trying to feed that small wire through that tiny hole afterwards. I hate working under dashes and definitely didn't want to have a nut to tighten above the gas pedal. From engine bay side of cable, slide washer down over cable and gently pull on bushing until you can get the E-clip in groove. Be careful with these braided sheaths that you don't pull the braiding out of the ferrules, it's a pain to put back together. I put duct tape on mine to help prevent unintentionally pulling apart. Screw gas pedal back in place. The rod should stop against the rubber stop with a nice thud without the socket hitting the aluminum bushing. I glued the rubber stop on, it kept falling off. You can cut the socket down in length if it hits bushing. The hard part is done, now you just need to mount cable adjusters onto new bracket, and mount new socket from your cable kit onto 1/4" ball. Cut cable to length and set Allen screw. Adjust as needed. Remove old linkage parts and store away. One nice thing is the cable is hardly noticeable coming up to the carbs instead of over the top. Still working out the price. I've only worked on a 73, but I think the spacing of the center linkage lever is pretty much the same for earlier Z's. I need some feedback on that. Anyway, let me know what you think, if you're interested, or if you have any questions. Thanks, Ken