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I have a 123 distributor with a Bluetooth app I can set any timing I want. engine specs: l26 N42 head new stock bearing and rings. Schneider stage 3 460 lift 280 dur. timed 5 degrees adv to spec dual weber 32/36 dgv, I have a jet kit but need to get my o2 sensor working pacesetter headers 2.5in exhaust really good ignition components kameari twin idlers and adjustable cam gear 3 core rad with dual 12 in fans for cooling. heat shielding everywhere. a video of it running

I am attempting to tune my '71 with the old round top SUs. I performed a rudimentary (at best) carb tuning and then turned to the ignition. While tuning the engine I was able to get the it to idle well at 800 RPM and it had strong acceleration up to about 6K RPM and 90 MPH. (On a track only, of course! ?) But when I look at the ignition timing with a timing light, it shows that it is about 25-degrees BTDC! The distributor is at its limit of adjustment. Is it possible/recommended that I remove the distributor itself and move it by "one position" to fix the problem and get me back to the right range where I can make timing adjustments just loosening the distributor cap and adjusting? What is going on and how I can fix it? Thanks!

Hello all, Before I go out and buy a timing gun, I was hoping to hear your thoughts on this short video clip. Finally got my 76 280z running and idling after finding a vacuum leak at the booster, but the idle is still really low, and I believe I hear it missing/bogging when accelerating ? idle adjustment screw seems to do nothing in either direction. New plugs, new plug wires, new water temp sensor, new battery, cleaned the injector plug connections, but that's about it. Thank you, Oscar VID_20190802_074213.mp4

First off i want to thank everyone that has helped me with my project 240. So it starts!! Now trying to tune and sync the carbs. Having trouble with a super high idle aroung 1300rpm with timing set advanced around 12 degrees, any lower and the car diesels and backfires. the engine revs smooth unless you blip the throttle , in which case it bogs for a sec and climbs. i have not driven it yet(still need work on suspension and brakes). any other guys with webers have any input on this? as far as timing? what dizzy to go with? also, the lights flickers and ammeter goes nuts in car. does not happen all the time, it does smooth out and when it goes crazy, there is a slight squealing noise in engine bay. All and any input is greatly appreciated

Hello guys! I'm new to this forum and recently new to the datsun world I purchased a 1981 280zx datsun that has been sitting outside a barn for about 4-6 years and since it still had the engine I decided to see if I can get it running before I even consider swapping the same l28e or if I get lucky the l28et. The first things I did was: change the oil, replace the fuel filter flush tank and replace gasoline (regular) replaced battery with terminals flush and replace coolant, spark plug wires (all in correct firing order) change ngk spark plugs (gaped .42 and added oil in each cylinder for lubrication) I cranked it with no luck, I heard the oil pump running loudly but decided to use starter fluid. Once started fluid was sprayed and the engine was cranked and the engine started and was running on starter fluid so my next steps were: clean injectors clean fuel rail replace o rings and insulation I cranked it again without starter fluid and it only cranked but didnt start. So I did a compression test and numbers were 140, 145, 145, 140,145, 155 so compression is pretty good being that 180psi is like new. I removed the fuel return line and cranked the engine and gasoline came rushing out, I tested the spark and its a blue with white tint, engine sounds like it wants to start so timing is good (?), exhaust smells like gasoline and has pulses, and it still doesnt want to start. Each time i remove the spark plugs after attempting to start it, i can see a little wetness on the tip and it smells like gas. It started once with starter fluid but now it just doesnt want to even with it. What do you guys think can be the problem? thank you!

I recently installed the Crane xr3000 and used the 14 gauge wire - per the Crane instructions. However my tach is not steady and it will drop sometimes between shifts. It just generally works poorly. I have heard of a fix for this - anyone know what it is.

Alright guys so I was planning on using a Mallory MAL 2363901 distributor and pertronix in my 11/70 240z but I just got an email back saying that they're discontinued and sold out. Every other place I've tried online seems to be sold out as well. I'm thinking of going with the Mallory unilite with mechanical advance (no vacuum advance) coupled with pertronix and was hoping someone else here might have had success with it and can give me some info. I'm going to be installing triple mikuni carbs shortly and plan on keeping the ballast resistor and using a 1.5ohm coil as well. If someone has done this before and could share what model they are using it would be greatly appreciated! As a side note, I have looked into other options such as late model distributors and have decided that I want to go with a Mallory one and spend a little bit more. Thank you. Chris

Hi, I just got Xenon Timing Light to measure ignition timing. When I look at pulley timing mark, I can't tell which side is zero since it's different from 280z timing Is top one the zero or the bottom one in the picture? When I look at FSM for '72 240z said "The top dead center is located extreme left as viewed from inspectors side." Thanks for the help, tamo3

I recently rebuilt the engine in my 1971 240Z. The relevant parts: L28 N42 block L24 E88 head (earliest "notched' chamber design) Overbore of 0.030" F54-type flat-top pistons from ITM Isky Racing Stage 2 cam (.480 lift, 280 duration, 232 @ .050 lift duration) New Schneider performance valve springs and hats New rocker arms and lash pads New oil pump for 81 ZX turbo engine As part of the machining the head got a valve job (head already had steel valve seats retro-fitted) and new valve guides. I'm running 91 octane gas (highest we have here in Utah; high altitude) and Valvoline VR1 racing oil. The new camshaft is internally oiled and I installed a new spray bar made for me by Captain Obvious on these forums. Everything in the block was assembled with Permatex's assembly lube while everything in the head got Isky's assembly lube included with the cam. All the bolts and nuts I could find a spec for got torqued to spec. When I first fired her up the radiator was open and had a hose constantly running water. I immediately brought the engine up to ~2000 RPM and let it run for 30 minutes while I monitored oil pressure and temperature. Temp was right in the middle of the gauge while oil pressure was about 80 PSI. She sounded great. A day or two later I took her out for the first drive. Engine revved nicely and was very responsive. I stayed in first gear initially, bringing the engine up to ~3000 RPM and then letting the engine brake the car to help seat the rings. I did this about 10 times, then took her out on the road. Just a minute or two after shifting into second a clunk sounded under the hood. I immediately pulled off the road, popped the hood. The gauges still read in the normal range, but the sound was markedly different and idle was terrible. I head back home when another clunk sounded. I immediately killed the engine and coasted to the side of the road. I tried cranking a few times, but the sound was wrong and the car wouldn't start. Through all of this, no smoke, no leaking fluids, and no extreme gauge readings. The next day I had the car towed home. I pulled all of the spark plugs; none of them show anything unusual and definitely no signs of collision. I pulled the valve cover; camshaft looks good and well-oiled and all friction surfaces appear to be mating nicely. However, the cam timing sprocket had slipped off the cam snout and was no longer engaged with the dowel on the snout. The sprocket hadn't fallen into the abyss of the front cover, but it was riding on the bolt. I didn't see oil at the top of the radiator, and no frothiness in the oil on the dipstick. I figure that the clunks I head were the cam timing sprocket slipping off. I must not have done the final torque to spec on the bolt as I thought I had. I can't turn the cam enough to engage hole 1 on the cam timing sprocket so it appears that the valves and pistons did run at least some interference. However, nothing on the top side of the head shows any signs of trauma. I'm pulling the head tonight and will be pulling the front cover and re-doing the timing this weekend. What specifically should I be checking? I figure the most likely damage is bent valves; what do I need to do to check for this? Any other advice?

Would an engine run if the oil pump was timed to the top of the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. I guess this is considered 180 degress out. In any case would it run and if it did how would it run. I set my oil pump but because the car is running poorly- kinda sputtering, I am second guessing if I got the top of the compression or the exhaust. Thanks Glenn

I hooked a timing light and with with the dist lined with the timing mark at the adjustment nut the crank pulley timing mark is not even close to the timing degree tab. If I remove the dist nut and crank it as far as it will go towards the drivers side the timing mark gets closer to the crank pulley and timing tab but still a good 1/2 inch away from the entire degree measurement tab. Whats the deal. It also seems to idle way too high. All the carb idle throttle speed screws, balance screws etc are backed out to the point they are not even touching anything but the rpms are 1200 to 1300. It does lower when the dist adjustment screw is removed and the dist turned all the way towards the drivers side as far as it will go. At this point it also backfires through the carbs. My poor sick Z and my less then needed Mr Goodwrench skills are not seeing eye to eye. Any thoughts Thanks