Search the Community

Literally just bought a 1972 240z with an l24, 4 speed, r200 diff swap, dual su carbs, MSA stage 2 cams and springs, and E31 high compression head, and adjustable dump valve for decibel levels. The previous owner said that the car is just barely making too much power for the stock clutch in the car. I had to drive it home from Kansas City to where I live back in Arkansas, I immedately felt the clutch start to slip once I got about 250 miles down the road, it was either on it's way out, I burned it out (doubt is the case after owning a z33 for 6 years with stage 2 JWT clutch), or it has too much power like he had said (taken with a grain of salt). What are the chances that this is the case, and if so, what clutch should I get that would safely grab any power I might be putting down? Additionally, I notice most of the slave/master cylinders are all original on the car. Car has 88k original miles on it, what brand cylinders should I get? Any input would be appreciated as this this my first 240z. Cheers.

Help! My 260/240Z manual says to torque the side flange bolts on the differential to 40 ft-lb. I tried that and just snapped one off at 20 ft-lbs. should the torque really be 40 IN-LBS?

Hi there, I've just finished building a new four barrel carburettor for my next development phase on my L28. The Holley originally started off as a 'run of the mill' 450 cfm (list 4548) vacuum secondary four barrel. Since then, it has been extensively modified and upgraded to suit my requirements. Some of the features it has are: 4 corner idle mixture adjustment Downleg booster venturis Electric choke Reworked metering blocks to include adjustable power valve channel restriction and idle/off idle circuits via screw in jets Percy's adjustable metering blocks for primary and secondary main fuel Centre hung fuel bowls Quick change secondary spring unit and A blended 600 cfm 4 barrel base plate. The next phase of engine development includes a new cylinder head where I'm concentrating on improving low engine speed torque. The head will have a much better quench around the valves and will boost my compression from 8.3 to 9.9 to one. The ports are round exhaust with liners like the P79 heads and the intake ports are smaller than the N42. (30mm's versus 34.7mm's). The intake manifold is an older candilabra single carburettor type, Nissan code E30. This manifold will be adapted to suit the Holley carburettor and it has 30mm runners, matching perfectly the Y70 head which originally came off an L20A ET engine in Japan. The head is currently at a headshop being reconditioned with guidelines not to touch the ports other than to clean the bowl region and improve the valve seat areas for better flow. A special smooth radius valve job will be tried instead of the usual 5 angle. It came with strong recommendation so I said yes to that. The head should be ready fairly soon. I'm very curious (and committed!) to giving this a go. I will be doing a series of dyno runs soon to establish my baseline at the moment and then gradually change over to the new parts to see their effect on performance. Remember, my aim is to improve torque at low rpms, so talk about big ports, valves and camshafts may not be what is needed, unless you can convince me otherwise! Sure, I would still like it to rev to say 5000rpm, but it is what happens when you change to the next gear higher that interests me, what happens at between say 2000 to 4000 rpm's! Read Torque Monster! Your thoughts?