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View Advert L24 Engine & Transmission Someone please make me an offer. I need to clear my garage space !!! I have a spare L24 engine & transmission that I would like to sell. My restro. https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/10812-crshowers/ is complete and spare parts no longer needed. What is missing? Just the thermostat inlet housing & the starter, alternator. All other parts are intact. This has flat top carbs that you most likely want to replace. The engine has not been run in the past 10 years. It has a performance cam installed. I do not have any details, as the prior owner has passed away. I would like to see someone from the Northeast be the new owner to minimize delivery costs. I dropped the price to $750 I think that is a fair price for both. Someone got to have a good home for this. contact me for delivery options Advertiser crshowers Date 08/11/2022 Price $750 Category Parts for Sale  

Since there is still a lot of stuff about these not known exactly and many confusing topics, thousand of pages and myths, I will try here to make it easier. If anyone has additional information or something is not right, please post, then I will modify the 1 post. This is for stock factory transmissions only, NOT competition ones. There are A, B and C types transmissions ( C was never used in Z cars so I will not add these here ) Update 9/7-21 : Also the 4.11 ratio R180 was not used on Z cars ( correct me if I am wrong ) Also not sure if 3.90 was used in the USA on the 260/280Z and ZX So far I have: Nissan S30 Fairlady Z Japan till 1978: F4W71A manual F4W71B manual FS5C71A manual FS5C71B manual 3 speed automatic 3N71A 3 speed automatic 3N71B R180 Differential, possible gear ratios available: 3.36 / 3.54 / 3.90 240Z: Datsun 240Z USA and Canada F4W71A manual F4W71B manual 3 speed automatic 3N71A 3 speed automatic 3N71B R180 Differential, possible gear ratios available: 3.36 / 3.54 Datsun 240Z Europe, UK, rest of the world FS5C71A manual FS5C71B manual 3 speed automatic 3N71A 3 speed automatic 3N71B R180 Differential, possible gear ratios available: 3.54 / 3.90 260Z: Datsun 260Z USA and Canada F4W71B manual FS5W71B manual 3 speed automatic 3N71B R180 Differential, possible gear ratios available: 3.36 / 3.54 / 3.90 Datsun 260Z Europe, UK, rest of the world FS5C71B manual 3 speed automatic 3N71B R180/R200 Differential, possible gear ratios available: 3.54 / 3.90 280Z: Datsun 280Z USA and Canada F4W71B manual FS5W71B manual 3 speed automatic 3N71B R180/R200 Differential, possible gear ratios available: 3.36 / 3.54 / 3.70 / 3.90 ----- ------ ----- ------ ----- ----- 280ZX: Datsun 280ZX USA and Canada F4W71B manual FS5W71B manual 5 speed Borg Warner T5 3 speed automatic Jatco 3N71B R180/R200 Differential, possible gear ratios available: 3.36 / 3.54 / 3.90 Datsun 280ZX Europe,UK, rest of the world FS5W71B manual 5 speed Borg Warner T5 3 speed automatic Jatco 3N71B R180/R200 Differential, possible gear ratios available: 3.54 / 3.70 / 3.90 Nissan S130 Fairlady Z Japan: FS5W71B manual 5 speed Borg Warner T5 3 speed automatic Jatco 3N71B R180/R200 Differential, possible gear ratios available: 3.54 / 3.70 / 3.90

View Advert L24 Engine & Transmission Description Someone please make me an offer. I need to clear my garage space !!! I have a spare L24 engine & transmission that I would like to sell. My restro. https://www.classiczcars.com/profile/10812-crshowers/ is complete and spare parts no longer needed. What is missing? Just the thermostat inlet housing & the starter, alternator. All other parts are intact. This has flat top carbs that you most likely want to replace. The engine has not been run in the past 10 years. It has a performance cam installed. I do not have any details, as the prior owner has passed away. I would like to see someone from the Northeast be the new owner to minimize delivery costs. I dropped the price to $750 I think that is a fair price for both. Someone got to have a good home for this. contact me for delivery options Advertiser crshowers Date 03/16/2021 Price $750.00 Category Parts for Sale  

View Advert Nissan/Datsun Parts I have a locker full of parts that I believe are Nissan/Datsun parts. There are several transmissions,engines, differentials, heads, and other miscellaneous parts. I’m not familiar with any of them so I’m looking for advice or someone that may be interested in purchasing what’s here. Feel free to call or text me at 918-722-3589 if interested or can help. Located in Oklahoma. Thanks for any interest and or help. Advertiser RAPFarms Date 02/18/2021 Price $6,500.00 Category Parts for Sale  

Hi I’m the owner of a standard 6/1972 Datsun 240z, which I recently changed the clutch on (with a new clutch kit) because of an oil leak from the rear main seal. All went well on the install and when I finished I began refill transmission with gear oil (Pennzoil Synchromesh). My owners manual calls for 1.5 liters of fluid in the “transmission case”. I ended up filling the transmission, but it never came overflowing out of the fill plug hole after using 2 bottles (which is roughly 2 liters). Should I continue filling until it flows out or hold off? I should also note I had the transmission upside down for couple of days and small amount of fluid did drain from what I believe is the breather (metal circular piece.)

Bought a 85 300zx base model with 96k miles. Ran decently for 2 months until the tranny blew. When I drained her I saw multiple teeth, a washer, a screw and shavings galore. I couldnt find any worthwhile transmissions to purchase so I decided to cut out the middleman and attempt to rebuild it myself. I'm only 19 and have been working on cars for less than a year so I can definetly learn it but I need some guidance as to where I should look for learning material and if there is anything in particular I should know before I start dissembling. My tranny is already out and I split it from the bell housing and where the stick shift is. Thanks in advance. Also a bearing got completely destroyed near the idle gear and my clutch also got destroyed

I am attempting to tighten the shift linkage on my early '71. I had some new nylon bushings in "stock" so I thought I'd use those. When I got to the linkage, there was no match with the bushings. So, I think I have a Type A transmission. Can someone tell from the picture below? Also, how do I fix this linkage so I don't have to stir to find the gear? Just a different bushing? Thanks

I have a 71 240. Problem I'm having is it seems like my clutch is always engaged. It's almost impossible to get it into either first or second gear unless the car is off or rolling. In first and reverse with the clutch fully depressed the car rolls forward or back as if I'm letting off the clutch. Also theres a good clunk with the initial shift into reverse. I've replaced the master cylinder slave cylinder looks in good shape no leaks. I have the adjustable shank on my slave cylinder so I tried to thread it out thinking it would improve and it did the exact opposite, so I threaded the shank all the way back to the point where it is just barely (not even 1 ft lbs) touching my clutch fork and still I'm having the same issue. System has been bleed completely and I cant take anymore away from the shank on the slave cylinder. Later I will try adjusting the clutch pedal from under the dash see if that gives me any improvement. Any advice or suggestions would help thanks for the read!!!!!!

The higher pitch is me blipping the throttle. When coasting it's quite and on acceleration where the engine is actually pushing i.e. going down hill faster than gravity, it has this whine. The last transmission flush had an inch of shavings on the magnetic drian plug. I have a 4 speed 260z and a unknown welded diff. Plans to swap out to spare open diff. and swap in a 5 speed 240sx transmission. Any info on that swap would be helpful to have!!! PS 75mph is actually 60mph

On my 73 240 I recently removed the tranny in order to replace the clutch. I got it out, it wasn't easy just using floor jacks and jack stands but I got it out. I was reading the manual and I see that it says to remove engine as well. Is that necessary? Would it be difficult to put the tranny in w/o having removed the engine? I can see that it will be difficult to get the tranny back up in there with engine in place due to the small up high tunnel.

I just bought some new headers for my 1974 260z, but they run into some transmission coolant lines. Does anyone know if I would be able to bypass these lines? Or what I could do to get around this problem? It's an automatic and I have removed the air conditioning. Any information would be greatly appreciated. The two horizontal lines in the second picture are what I am talking about.

I have an early 5 speed transmission. I'm guessing it is from a '79. I had the transmission rebuilt recently. After the rebuild I didn't have 2nd and 5th gear. So I yanked it out and took it back to the mechanic. I put it back in Saturday and I still don't have 5th gear. It shifts flawlessly 1-4 and reverse seems ok, but when I put it in 5th it pops out when I let out the clutch. Before anyone goes there, the mechanic is used by many hear and considered to be reputable. I'm frankly pissed but I'm not going to call him out. My questions are: Does anyone have any ideas why 5th keeps popping out and if I leave it in for know and just use gears 1-4 am I going to mess something up? I'm loath to pull it out again right away because it's a lot of work, and I'm also loath to take it back to the mechanic because I have lost confidence (and it entails 3 hours of driving). Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Replacing my rear transmission seal (it's a five speed-model FS5W71B. Seal is from Motorsport Seal Part Number 32136-U0100). Old seal disintegrated upon removal. Wondering if the inner metal ring (or band) should be removed as well (possible this is part of the old seal)? (see red arrow in pic around 2 0'clock). Thanks you!

Looking for Transmission cross member 70-71 years, 240z Please pm if available, Thank you.

1972 240z manual. Having a problem moving shift lever into reverse. Just drove car cross country, about 2500 miles. When I started, shifting into all gears was fine, smooth and easy. Near the end shifting into reverse was very hard, and it still is. No grinding, just moving the shift lever into reverse is very stiff and takes quite a bit of force. Any help will be appreciated. Don't know if this is a linkage or transmission problem.

As mentioned in my earlier threads, I recently purchased a '71 240Z with shifting issues (F4W71A 4-speed manual transmission). The transmission would not reliably shift into 3rd and the lever was so loose you had no idea what gear you were in or shifting into. Getting into reverse required slamming the lever to the right against the plastic console before pulling back. My plan was to replace the clutch disc and pressure plate and to rebuild the transmission. From the beginning I planned to drop it myself, but I called around for quotes to rebuild at shops, in part because I have never done this before. The lowest I found was about $1000 if I dropped it myself and brought it in; many shops said they couldn't/wouldn't work on something this old. I'm not doing a factory restoration so this was something I could not afford. Besides, I want to do as much work myself as possible. Let me again state that I had never rebuilt a transmission; I had never even removed one before. Due to this fact I had some trepidation about taking on this project. However, I did a lot of research before starting. AutoZone has the basic steps outlined on their website for free (requires registration on their site). The Haynes manual for the Z cars also explains the procedure and has illustrative diagrams and pictures. There's also this thread here on the forum: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?42884-FS4W71A-Transmission-Assembly-Photos-%28Jan-1971-240z%29 The final clincher for me was speaking with my grandfather. He's always tinkered with cars; his first car was a 40's Packard and he's been working on them ever since. He told me that the first time he opened a transmission he was terrified, but it turned out that it actually wasn't that bad. For parts I started with the transmission rebuild kit available from AutoZone, with synchronizers. However, I must warn anyone who reads this in the future: THIS KIT IS WORTHLESS! While the synchronizers are correct, an extra fifth is included and only one of the six bearings (why? this transmission only has four) is the correct size. The single gasket included doesn't fit anywhere, but the needle bearing for the input shaft is correct. The oil seals are also correct. AutoZone was kind enough to let me keep the correct parts while issuing a refund, but I still needed the missing parts. I needed the bell housing and adapter plate gaskets, a new clutch fork dust boot (mine was hard and so it crumbled during removal) and a transmission breather (I snapped mine when trying to remove the rear extension housing). All of these parts are interchangeable with the Roadster 5-speed transmission, so I ordered them from datsunparts.com The applicable part numbers on the site are 2194 (clutch fork dust boot), 2203 (breather), and (2481) gaskets. Dean was very helpful, verified that the Roadster parts would work, and expedited my order. I would highly recommend his site and will be ordering from him again. I ordered the missing bearings by their Timken part numbers from Amazon. This was a good solution because the bearings are carried by Amazon and are thus Amazon Prime-eligible (free 2-day shipping or cheap next-day). I also wanted to replace the spring that retains the clutch fork on its ball pivot since it was worn, and it's a good idea to replace the output shaft lock tab washer whenever you remove it. These two parts were ordered from ZSpecialties. They aren't listed on their site, but if you call them up they can get a hold of them. In this manner I managed to cobble together a transmission rebuild kit. If I was to do this again I would purchase a kit from a business specializing in Z cars. While my methods may have resulted in lower monetary cost there was much hassle and wasted time. The above-listed sources detail the rebuild process step-by-step. I'll just name a few pointers for anyone in a similar situation who finds this thread in the future: - You'll need two floor jacks. A transmission jack or a large adapter plate might be helpful, but I didn't have or use either. A floor jack instead of a jack stand under the engine block will allow you to tilt the engine to make mating easier. - If the bell housing doesn't come off easily check if you missed any bolts. I missed two on my first pass; they were completely covered in friction material dust, grease, and road grime. - While everything is apart you'll want to clean it. Any bearings to be reused should be cleaned only in clean gasoline. I cleaned other interior parts and surfaces with gasoline and brake parts cleaner. My wife scrubbed the casing exterior with steel wool pot scrubbers (isn't she great?). Any surface that came in contact with water I wiped down with alcohol to ensure no moisture remained. - The adapter plate needs to be secure in order to drive out and install the shafts. While a bench-mounted vise would be easiest, I don't have one. Instead, I screwed the adapter plate to a piece of 2x4 through its bolt holes and then clamped the wood to the edge of my workbench. - Take apart the gear and shaft assembly over a container. There are a number of easily-lost parts: three detent balls and springs held in by plugs, four detent balls between the shift rods in the adapter plate, a ball under the speedometer worm gear, and a ball under the thrust washer adjacent to 1st gear. Placing these parts in labelled baggies would be wise. - Test the shifting performance of the transmission repeatedly at the various stages of re-assembly and installation. You'd hate to get it in the car only to discover a synchronizer assembly had dislodged. - The clutch pressure plate fits on the flywheel in a specific orientation. There are three dowels on the flywheel; each dowel mates to a specific hole on the plate. If the plate doesn't press on easily, rotate the plate and try again. This wasn't mentioned in any of the instructions or the clutch kit. - Before re-installing the transmission you can make a few modifications to tighten up the shifter. You can insert a greased washer next to the shifter bracket on the striker rod, and use a bolt and nut assembly with greased washers to secure the fork to the striker rod. (see attachment, original image credits to Blue's thread linked above) - It may be helpful to have an assistant hold the transmission by the shifter bracket from the cabin through the cutout in the tunnel; this will assist in getting the right tilt to mate the transmission to the engine. - The transmission should slide in easily. If not, drop the transmission, loosen the pressure plate bolts, and recenter the clutch disc with the shaft centering tool. - While re-installing the clutch slave cylinder check the dust boot on the piston and rod for cracks and tears. New slave cylinders are only $20 on Amazon. Remember to tighten up the rod so there's no play in the clutch fork. - The A-series transmission can't use the brass bushings commonly referenced to improve shifter feel. Instead, you need machined conical bushings to go in the bracket. ZSpecialties sells the appropriate bushings; I'm sure others do too. - There are two easy ways to refill the transmission (use synthetic 90-weight gear oil) without any sort of pumping device. Many stores sell a valve and tubing assembly that connects directly to the oil bottle. My wife held the bottle in the engine compartment while I directed the tubing into the fill hole. Had this not worked I also purchased a length of aquarium tubing in order to fill from the side. The transmission is now back in the car. I hit 3rd gear every time and the shifter is much tighter (some play will always exist as a result of the "monkey motion" assembly). To anyone wondering whether they can do this on their own, I would say go for it. While there were a few tense moments I learned a lot, had genuine fun in this project, and can claim something few people have done. Next weekend's project: rebuild the carburetors with a ZTherapy kit.

So as the title says is pretty much my problem. Now getting into more detail explaining the problem. Under acceleration it shift perfectly normal and accelerates fine but, under acceleration in 2nd gear the shifter itself wobbles up and down under acceleration, all other gears do it very minimal more so vibrates for the rest of the gears but 2nd gear you see it move up and down. Is this normal? Is this a sign of problems to come?

Hi guys, I recently picked up a 3.1L stroker for the Z that I'm going to swap into it in the next couple months and was hoping for an opinion on clutch choices. I actually already have two: a six puck clutch and a centerforce clutch. I got both of them with the engine and a 5 speed. I'm looking to maintain streetability through this evolution but I'm not sure which one is the best way to go and was hoping for opinions. Again, I have both of them brand new already so whichever one I don't use I'm just going to sell off anyway. Thoughts and opinions are very much appreciated! Thanks! Chris

I need to drain both my differential and my 4 speed transmission. It is filled with non synthetic. I am reading all about redline and or royal purple however they are both synthetic. My understanding is you cant put synthetic oil in if it did not contain synthetic before. IS this true- what do you use if not the synthetic and or how do you convert to use the synthetic. Any help is greatly appreciated

I know there are similar threads but none that deal with my specific trans and I would really like to be sure before starting. So I've gathered from reading other posts that the transmission should bolt right in but I'm unsure about all of the extra wire ports that seem to be on the 83' trans. Can they be left in connected? And is there anyway I can tell if this transmission is from a turbo or non turbo version (I hear the non turbo is better) any feedback would be great will post a pic if that will help expedite the process

Im buying a 71 240z some time next week, i have test drove/looked the car over and there is only one small rust spot on passenger rocker panel. There is A big CLUNK when i put the car into gear and the owner says that it needs a new U joint, Is this a common Problem? He has the new U joint to be put in the car. I am buying it for 3,700 so its understandable that there will be issues, just want to make sure im not getting worked over.

I am looking for a couple reverse gears to rebuild my 71 z tranny. Anybody know a good source?