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I just got a thottle cable to replace my throttle linkage. It's a 24 inch. Was wondering if yall could drop some pics of the throttle cable replacements yall have done. Need ideas of routing and connections. Please and thank you for the help.

Hello Guys, since last weekend I´m owning a 280z which will be fully restored and therefore I`ll change every component that was/is in contact with fluids or has orings inside. Especially the brake system. So when buying new parts I also could just spend a little more and get "better" parts. So the idea came up for a brake upgrade. I was reading a lot of threads about rear disc conversion in a couple of forums together with the problems that go along with it (brake bias, not for this stress designed axels etc.) Together with the fact that I`m out of germany and its not that easy to get it road legal with a disc brake where normally a drum sits. I was deciding to leave the stock drums and just get new pads, hardware and wheel cylinders for the back. In the front I`d like to install a vented disc setup. That this setup works well was backed by the nissan competition catalog were as far as my understanding goes they installed a 4 piston caliper with 41,3 mm dia (FIA MK63 brake) a vented disc and changed the rear drum wheel cylinders to 13/16". Nothing else was touched - is that right? So stock proportion valve, stock 7/8 master. My problem is I can`t find anybody who did this swap before due to the fact that everybody goes straight to a rear disc conversion which I don`t wanna do. So seems that two upgrades would be possible for me. The vented S12-8 from a 88 L4 4runner with vented discs (couldn`t find a kit online) with two 43 and two 34 mm dia pistons in each caliper which seems to work good with a rear disc setup. Or the S12-W conversion with four 43 mm dia pistons. If you go through the other threads a lot of people say that the S12-W is really heavy but I couldn`t find any numbers. Wheel clearance wise the S12-8 vented should also be better than the S12-W. So what we know is that the original nissan upgrade works well. To check the bias change I was trying to do some calculations based off the premises you don`t change pad compound, leave the rear drum alone (besides the piston dia on the FIA brake). So as these values would be all the same you can remove them from the calculations - right? Question is only by how much a little bit bigger padarea would make a difference and also a couple mm bigger dia disc would make a difference. What I did is not the REAL brake bias but I guess its a good starting point to only compare these three systems to each other. Or what do you think? So the FIA Brakes are 4 piston with 41,3 mm dia the rear drum cylinder are 13/16" so 20,6375 mm dia. So in total you`ve 8 pistons up front which combined have 10717,168mm² while the backs are two pistons each side so four in total with 2676,048 mm² together. S12W are 43 mm dia and stock 280z rear drum cylinder are 7/8 so 22,225 mm dia. Same number of pistons so up front 11617,608 mm² and rear 3103,584 mm². S12-8 vented has 4 pistons 43 and 4 with 34 mm that makes 9440,484 mm² plus the same in the rear like one above with 3103,584 mm² That makes a 80/20 distribution with the MK63 FIA brakes and 78,9/21,1 with the S12W and stock drums 75/25 with S12-8 vented Mounting points are the same so you don`t have different leaver. Considering you run the same pad compounds. Which have almost the same dimensions as well. You also should have the same pressure because they are not changing the master. Which I probably would due to the necessity of more fluid - so a 15/16 master would probably go in. Seems that the S12W is a pretty close call compared to the original vented upgrade with MK63 and 13/16" rear drum cylinders. What do you think? A manual willwood proportion valve (the black one) could also get rid of that 1% difference and would remove a tiny bit line clutter in the engine bay. Is someone running that setup and has some rekomendations or experience? Because you can talk and calculate a lot, but when it is not even noticeable in the end...IDK. The car will go down the performance road, so upgraded suspension, wider wheels, overfender, around 200 HP (hopefully) etc. BTW out of jdmjunkies.ch: MK63 Solid disk type including brake-pads: 4.300 KgsStandard two pot OEM including brake-pads: 4.445 Kgs what I found on an other side is 3,8 kg for the vented MK63 without pads - not really comparable. And I did`t find anything about the S12W or vented S12-8... Thanks for your help, much appreciated

Completed my installation of a fuse block to replace the ageing fusible links. Used the same Mini ANL block that Mike W used in his 260, except purchased the 4 fused output block. One 80A ANL for the alternator feed back, and three 50A for the other circuits were the fuses I used. This model has 2 inputs so I will eventually run another cable from the unused port to a inexpensive 2 output small fuse block without the digital bling for the FI links. The display has 4 led's for the fuse status, and the system volts / current. The display cycles between volts & amps about every 10 seconds and shuts itself off in 90 seconds if there is no circuit activity. A good thing, I was worried it would stay lit up all the time & was getting ready to put a small toggle switch on the ground wire for the display to kill it. Worked out well. Fairly accurate, shows my battery to be 12.9 volts when the car is off. Shows my parking / dash lights are 3 to 4 amps when on.

Ok I am aware of the popular L28/L28ET swop, but if I want to keep the orig L26 engine is there any proven ways (not to cost prohibitive) that can noticeably increase performance (say hp & torque up by +20% ?). Only mod I have made so far are early 240z carb's..Are stroker build for L26's available/worthwhile ? Apprecaite your thoughts.

Hi everybody, So I am wondering if anyone has used the alternator upgrade KIT from MSA? Motorsport! 60-Amp Alternator Upgrade Kit, 70-73 240Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts Is that alternator decent, or should I really get a rebuilt-280-one? Any recommendations of an alternator that is compatible and good quality, but not too expensive? Thanks!

I have a 73 240z with no electric fuel pump. I just installed the ZXP plug and a 280zx 60amp alternator. The new alternator appears to have a cut out on the back of it. Do I need to unplug the one that was bolted to the external voltage regulator? Thanks

I hate to ask this question since its been asked so many times before, but I tried the other solutions and they did not work. When I bought the car, both the low and high beams worked fine. The day I got it home, the left headlight had gone out and a few days later the right headlight followed. The amp meter needle bounces when I switch on the low beams (parking lights) but no longer does anything between the low and high beam settings. Literally every other light in the car works except for the headlights. I did some searching and other people who had the same problem as me either found a broken connection under the steering wheel or had a bad switch, so I cleaned the switch, checked all the connections under the steering column and I couldnt spot any problems. This connector was too hot to handle after I tested all the lights and left the lights on the high beam setting for a while(pulled it apart as much as my fingers could handle before taking the picture: According to the FSM it connects a ton of stuff, but after pulling it apart, I did not notice anything odd with the individual connections and everything looked very clean. After putting everything back together, the plug no longer heats up, but still no headlights. Did my headlights just die out? Is there something I overlooked? Here is the album that has all the pictures of my car and the pictures from around the steering column: https://picasaweb.google.com/flyingaero/Datsun260Z I purchased these lights from eBay to replace the old ones, but I would like to see if I can solve the headlight problem before putting in higher power lights and a headlight relay harness. Any idea how I would get the halos to work? The knowledge of electronics I had does not translate to inside the car like I thought it would

Hello everyone! I'm wanting to bring my Z up to a whole new level of power with a chevy V8 and a 6-speed transmission. First of if you guys have any suggestions for what the best setup would be parts-wise I would be very thankful. I've sort of been browsing around Z car parts websites for a while now and I've seen these small block V8 conversion kits that are supposed to contain everything to mount the engine so that it doesn't mess up your weight distribution too badly. THAT is what makes me think this is possible. Now here comes my real question, don't laugh I'm being serious:) Would a 6.0L LS2 corvette engine and a TR6060 6-speed transmission fit in a 1978 280z with little or no modifications? If not what would I have to do to make it work? And if that particular setup wouldn't work then what would be the best engine/transmission setup for this project? Thanks for reading/considering my crazy questions!

Are there any real good ways to upgrade the fuel rail syster for a 280z? I was wonderinf if you could just get a fuel rail from a 2JZ motor from a toyota or from a 280zx or anything? Are there any good/cheap aftermarket billet rails? I just hate having to mess with the tiny segments of fuel hose every other week and have a new leak. any help is good help thanks.