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I need help, im trying to restore a 240z. The engine I currently have is the original one but I was gifted a 5 speed transmission, l28 engine and Weber carbs. I just need help with assembly. I've been doing some research and I have a basic idea but here are some questions I have. Are the crankshaft and other pulleys interchangeable with current engine and new l28? Does fuel line material matter? Is there anything else I need to replace in order to complete the swap?

Need some Help... The issue I'm having is idle hanging up around 1500. It will lower to normal (900 rpm) if I blip throttle. Getting tired of doing that in traffic. Middle carb is hanging , but only when engine is running. Carbs open and fully shut very smooth when engine off. Vacuum holding plates open?. Maybe it has to do with the balance tube on the cannon manifold. all carbs have been rebuilt. I swapped carb position and problem stays in middle carb. I heard the cannon manifold suck. Does anyone have some helpful info for me? TIA. 20190815_164848.mp4 20190815_164500.mp4 20190815_180041.mp4

Good evening guys, So I'm back for more help. It's almost time to drive my 240z for the first time, but the clutch is stuck to the flywheel. You might remember me. I'm the guy who bought the 72 with a seized engine(that I got unstuck). I'm here because the engine has a really hard time running when engine cold. It's about 60 degrees in Chicago now . So it will start and revs to about 2500 for 2 seconds and shut off, try again and again the same thing. Over and over and over again for about 5 minutes. I'm messing with the throttle the whole time. After a few minutes of that , it runs and idle great! Other that a slight bog when I blip off idle. Sorry for the long story, just want to give some background. Thanks in advance guys

First off i want to thank everyone that has helped me with my project 240. So it starts!! Now trying to tune and sync the carbs. Having trouble with a super high idle aroung 1300rpm with timing set advanced around 12 degrees, any lower and the car diesels and backfires. the engine revs smooth unless you blip the throttle , in which case it bogs for a sec and climbs. i have not driven it yet(still need work on suspension and brakes). any other guys with webers have any input on this? as far as timing? what dizzy to go with? also, the lights flickers and ammeter goes nuts in car. does not happen all the time, it does smooth out and when it goes crazy, there is a slight squealing noise in engine bay. All and any input is greatly appreciated

Disclaimer: I am by NO means a Weber Pro and this post is still a WIP (Work in Progress) Hello, my name is Mike and I've recently tackled my first set of Triple DCOE Webers project. Now, I spent hours reading all the manuals and following a few guides online, but none of them were particularly methodical in their approach and often just led to more confusion. I'm putting this guide together to, hopefully, help others who might not have much experience with these carbs or for those who (like me) prefer a Step-by-Step approach to figuring things out. This guide has been made possible with the help of those more knowledgeable than me. Thanks guys - you know who you are! If there's anything I need to clarify or add, let me know. Table of Contents I. Documentation II. Useful Links/Parts/Accessories III. Prologue IV. Choke/Venturi V. Main Jets, Emulsion Tubes, Air Correctors & Idle Jets VI. TBD I. Documentation DCOE Weber Carburetor Top-View Layout Weber Factory Tuning Manual - Download Link Power Tuning Webers (Des Hammil/Veloce Publishing) - Download Link Selection and Tuning of DCOE Weber Carbs (David Andrews ) - Download Link Weber DCOE Tuning Manual (Philippe Boursin) - Download Link II. Useful Links/Parts/Accessories http://www.redlineweber.com/ http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ http://www.carburetion.com/index.htm III. Prologue - The First Date First and foremost, it is essential that you know what you're working with. Setup a date with your newly acquired friends and spend a romantic evening just getting to know each other - perhaps light some candles and pour some wine while you're at it. In order to tune them properly, you need to know what sort of equipment your carbs are packing. IV. Choke/Venturi - Step One - Removal Let's start off by determining the size of the chokes/venturis. (If carbs don't have filters on them, skip to Step 1D) If the carbs are already out, the easiest way is to shine some light down the carb and see if you spot the engraved number. If you can't see the number or if you want to replace the chokes, then follow these steps. 1A - Unscrew the airbox/filter (If applicable) 1B - Underneath there are four (8mm) bolts holding in the housing. I already took off one of the studs. 1C - Remove Gasket (If applicable) 1D - Unscrew the this little fella (11mm) sitting on the bottom corner of each side of the carburetor. This holds the auxiliary venturi in place. 1E - Once the screw is removed, the aux. venturi should slip right out. 1F - Make a note of the little indent where the screw holds the aux. venturi in place. You're gonna have to put it back the same way for it to seat properly 1G - You should be able to see the chokes now, but we're gonna replace the 28's with a different size. 1H - Unscrew this fella (I used a flathead) to allow the choke to slide out. 1I - If you're having some trouble getting the choke/venturi out, then open the butterflies and push it out from the opposite side. It'll otherwise slide out IV. Choke/Venturi - Step Two - Assembly Alright, so now we have removed the choke - it's time to replace them! Here's the old 28 next to the new 34 that is going in. 2A - See these notches? You want to make sure that they line up properly in the carb. Looking at the carb from the front, the left choke lines up at 12 & 3, while the right choke lines up at 12 & 9 (Left choke lined up at 12 & 3) 2B - Re-insert the screw and make sure it sits firm. I had some trouble getting the right angle on some of them, so just make sure it's lined up properly. 2C - The aux. venturi should slide right in. Remember that little indent from before? Make sure it lines up properly with where the screw goes. 2D - Screw the little guy (11mm) back in and double check to make sure the aux. venturi is seated properly 2E - Do one final inspection to make sure everything is sitting right and then continue to put your gasket and filter back on. Personally, I went with these stacks. They slide right in and uses little clips that slide into the studs to hold them in. V. Main Jets, Air Correctors, Emulsion Tubes & Idle Jets WIP - Work in Progress